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Discussion Starter #1
Now that my stock 327 has been broke in...I'll be changing the oil around 500- miles.....Now I have to ask...Whats the best oil to use?? And which one will help with seating the rings ??...I've heard synthetic but I have to ask you pro's......Which one ???.........
 

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My Vote goes to Valvoline VR1.....

and since you live in the land of shakers and movers..... either straight 30 weight or 10W30......

as for the debate of synthetics or grade 2 dino..... thats debatable as to hp or longevity IMO....

modern machining and modern alloys have done more for longevity than oil has....

since Valvoline has saw fit to release a 10W30 full synthetic....which should be hitting the shelves in a few weeks.... I think its a no brainer....

but then I am partial to Valvoline... for over 35 years....
 

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You said it is broken in and your going to wait till 500 miles to change the oil? I would change the oil right now to get the break in material out of the engine. Then change again in 500 miles then go to a normal schedule.


As far as the best oil IMO that would be Amsoil Dominator but for a street car that is way over kill. I would agree with Veno the VR-1 is great oil and your engine will live happily on it. I am also VERY fond of Delo 400 and Shell Rotella. They both are mighty fine oils and both have 1200+ppm of zinc.
 

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you must have the engine fully broke in meaning rings seated before using synthetic oil. I've heard as little as 3,000 miles to 10,000 miles before using synthetic oil. check out www.bobistheoilguy.com they have a ton of info regarding oils.

Any synthetic is better than standard dino oils. I use mobil 1 in all my trucks and SUV's. I can go 10k between oil changes. I usually use kendall or valvoline and mobil for standard oils, for racing Im going to use the Brad Penn oil from what I hear its the green kendall oil. I've never had any issues with that. I personally wouldn't use anything lighter than 20w50 in dino oils unless you have an engine that has tight clearances and designed for light oil. Regular street/strip engines need a good weight oil to resist the shearing and loading on the bearings and help cool valvesprings. Oils with the starburst label on them have no zinc and phospherous to help keep the flat tappet cams from going flat. Just my .02
 

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I kinda hate to disagree with ya 6nova4 on your synthetics breakin.....

consider the new vetts .. since 1978 have came factory fill with mobil1 with as little as 3 miles on them? they breakin just fine...

My new 05 silverado came with a 5w30 synthetic with 13 miles on it....

as a matter fact all cars since about 2000 have had nothing but synthetic factory fills and they do well.....


I don't think it makes a hill of beans anymore.. which you use.....

Valvoline is now recommending the new VR1 Synthetics as a breakin oil.... go figure.....



the only logical reason to not breakin with Synthetics is ................ COST....

at 7 bucks + per quart for an oil that sees 30 minuets run time... then thrown out does not make sense.... when a 3 buck per quart oil with do just as well..... like Rotella straight 30 weight...
 

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I would tend to agree with ya veno in that yes corvettes and other cars have had synthetics from day one. BUT he doesn't have those engines. I'm not sure why its just what I was told by numerous engine builders and even recommended by one of the higher ups at Redline oil. If you could give me the lowdown I'd appreciate it.


BTW they put mobil 1 in vettes since 78? really? hmm...don't see why they would waste money like that on that engine since it was nothing special, but as you know GM engines always had problems with leakage and oil consumption...

and not ALL cars have synthetic oils. I worked at a few dealerships and we never used synthetic oils only in the vettes that came with it from the factory. As you said cost. Would be not cost efficient to put synthetics in say a nissan sentra or a toyota corolla or a chevy cavalier or a saturn SL1.

BUt I agree on the fact that yes today it doesn't really matter. I think in a few years regular oils will be obsolete. I think companies will figure out ways to make synth oils cheaper but will it be as good?
 

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I would tend to agree with ya veno in that yes corvettes and other cars have had synthetics from day one. BUT he doesn't have those engines. I'm not sure why its just what I was told by numerous engine builders and even recommended by one of the higher ups at Redline oil. If you could give me the lowdown I'd appreciate it.


BTW they put mobil 1 in vettes since 78? really?
the 1978 L82 350 is no different than his 327... the major differences are.. a .450 lift cam to a .410 lift cam... trw forged 4 valve flat tops and 2.02/1.60 heads with screw in studs and guide plates... compared to cast pistons, pressed in studs and 1.94/1.60 valves.... other wise.. same block, same forged steel crank(1053 or 1054) same cast iron blockalloy. one having 4 bolt mains vs 2 bolt mains....

actually I think it was 1976 when GM started filling the vett with Mobil1
 

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the 1978 L82 350 is no different than his 327... the major differences are.. a .450 lift cam to a .410 lift cam... trw forged 4 valve flat tops and 2.02/1.60 heads with screw in studs and guide plates... compared to cast pistons, pressed in studs and 1.94/1.60 valves.... other wise.. same block, same forged steel crank(1053 or 1054) same cast iron blockalloy. one having 4 bolt mains vs 2 bolt mains....

actually I think it was 1976 when GM started filling the vett with Mobil1
yes I know about the L-82 I just didnt know they used Mobil 1. I went to school with a guy whos dad bought a matching pair of 78 pace car vettes. L-82 4 speed cars but honestly I can't remember if it had stickers or something that said "use mobil 1. He used to bring the vettes into auto shop.

cool deal.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You said it is broken in and your going to wait till 500 miles to change the oil? I would change the oil right now to get the break in material out of the engine. Then change again in 500 miles then go to a normal schedule.


As far as the best oil IMO that would be Amsoil Dominator but for a street car that is way over kill. I would agree with Veno the VR-1 is great oil and your engine will live happily on it. I am also VERY fond of Delo 400 and Shell Rotella. They both are mighty fine oils and both have 1200+ppm of zinc.
Yes...After I broke the engine in I put Valvoline...10w30 in it again..That's what I broke it in with...I changed it right after break in....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I stopped over at pep boy's and I noticed the rotella and delo was for diesel engines....can you use those motor oils in an unleaded motor ???
 

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rotella is good, ive tried it in my excusion 5.4L but went back to my trusty castrol gtx and a bottle of lucus oil stablizer. i use 20w50 in the nova's 454
 

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I stopped over at pep boy's and I noticed the rotella and delo was for diesel engines....can you use those motor oils in an unleaded motor ???

:yes: Yup you can use them in any engine. They are great for older flat tappet engines because they still have a lot of zinc in them. Most Diesel engines still use flat tappet cams so the diesel oil still has to have plenty of zinc so those cams dont go bad. Diesel oils are also very good at keeping engines clean because they contain a lot of detergents.
 

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rotella is good, ive tried it in my excusion 5.4L but went back to my trusty castrol gtx and a bottle of lucus oil stablizer. i use 20w50 in the nova's 454

Just an FYI the lucas stuff does nothing more than thicken the oil. It is nothing more than a viscosity modifier. Its not going to hurt anything but it doesnt help anything either. I also found out castrol doesnt even make there own oils. They give the specs to a blender and that blender makes the oil for them. Valvoline (ashland) actually has labs and develops there own oil and blends it in house. A lot of people dont know that tid bit of info about castrol. Doesnt make it a bad oil but they come off as a big oil company when they actually are not. Amsoil does the same thing but they do actually have labs and do in house testing.


I read way to much over at www.bobistheoilguy.com :eek:
 

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What weight rotella or delo oil would be good. I'm in south east ga. It gets pretty warm in the summer months. Would delo 400 5w40 be alright to run? A thin 5 weight when cold and heavier 40 weight hot.
 

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I've used Rotella in mine but I heard recently it's prone to sludge in gasoline engines.
 

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What weight rotella or delo oil would be good. I'm in south east ga. It gets pretty warm in the summer months. Would delo 400 5w40 be alright to run? A thin 5 weight when cold and heavier 40 weight hot.
unless your daily driving the car a multi vis.. is not needed...

if you want to run Rotella look for the HD 10w30 or HD30.. as this is still the old CF formula not the new CJ4 with the reduced zddp...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm getting some great info on oil....But under my driving conditions..Which is not very often....I'll be driving my nova less than 1000 miles a year....I have a long way to go before it's done..Just because I have the motor in and running doesn't bring an end to the project.....I think I'll continue to use Valvoline 10w30 seems to be a good oil from what I read..........
 

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I've used Rotella in mine but I heard recently it's prone to sludge in gasoline engines.

:no: Where in the heck did you hear that? That is simply not true at all. The only way any oil will sludge an engine is if it is neglected. People used to claim pennzoil slugged engines and it is a proven fact that it doesnt and never has.
 

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I'm getting some great info on oil....But under my driving conditions..Which is not very often....I'll be driving my nova less than 1000 miles a year....I have a long way to go before it's done..Just because I have the motor in and running doesn't bring an end to the project.....I think I'll continue to use Valvoline 10w30 seems to be a good oil from what I read..........

Unless it is the VR1 oil it is not very good for flat tappet cams unless your cam is a very small bone stock cam.
 
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