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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed a partial new floorpan in my 70' Nova and have been finishing wire wheeling several spots with some rust ranging form surface to some pitting. It appears the previous owner did the same but did a poor job on the prep work. I have also removed and reapplied seam sealer at most spots. After wire wheeling the rusty spots I brushed on a rust stop chemical from Loctite and now have the majority primed, the next step will probably be a Eastwood or SEM aeresol paint.

My question is what should I put on top op the floor to prevent the carpet from wearing throught the paint? I dont want to put Dynamat in the car. I do have a pre-cut factory style Asphalt kit, but I honestly have no idea how it is supposed to be applied (heat gun?). I am considering just using some 3M rubberized undercoating over the paint.

Sorry for the rambling. Any ideas for a good coating to apply to the floor?
 

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most would probably suggest POR15 or a generic undercoat. rustoleum paint would work well too. find the industrial rustoleum paint and nothing will wear through it, very durable paint
 

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personally I was a little disappointed in por-15 I sanded my frame down to bare metal and painted with por-15 and after a month I went to paint my firewall and taped the frame, when I removed the tape a bunch of the por-15 came off to so I ended up touching up with rustoleum and it seems that that stuck better
I called por-15 and they sent me a quart as replacement but had no explanation why that happened
 

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if you dont follow instructions to the T for por15 it seems it wont work right at all. the metal ready (etch) and marine clean(degreaser) make sure the surface is as clean as possible and etch provides an even amount of grit to allow the por to grab on. with por15, you are almost better to leave some rust on it seems.


as for rustoleum/ tremclad, those also will stick to anything, but fair better agaiunst bare metal without the requirement of roughening it up first
 

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I painted my floor with rustoleum back in the late 80's . The floor was a mess with numerous patches, tar etc. All I did for prep was to vaccuum up the dirt and then put on a heavy coat with a brush. 25 years later when I pulled out the carpet the paint looked as good as the day I put it on; no peeling or flaking like por 15. Por 15 sticks to pitted metal but it takes way too much prep for clean smooth metal; if you're going to that much effort then you might as well use epoxy. I've now replaced the floor pans and I'll use rustoleum or i might try bed liner as it offers some noise reduction.
 

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funny, I'm actually painting/sealing my floor pan this weekend. I have my interior out for a 3-point belt install, which required me to weld in plates as anchors for the retractors (similar to this), and decided to weld up the myriad holes I've drilled through the years (I counted 20, excluding the extras from floor shifters I'm not touching) for various bucket seats. Going to protect it with Rust-Oleum since there's (luckily) little to no rust on the floor pan. I've heard mixed reviews on POR-15, and can't justify the price or prep for the minimal rust I have.

I'd suggest going with a truck bedliner or the undercoating for noise reduction, since you don't plan to use Dynamat. I do, so Rust-Oleum it is.
 

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POR-15 likes high humidity. When I was doing the underbody of my 40 Coupe, it was tacky for a long time. I thru a piece of old carpet down on the floor under the body and dumped a quart of water on it. With in 10 minutes the POR-15 was dry to the touch.
 

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personally I was a little disappointed in por-15 I sanded my frame down to bare metal and painted with por-15 and after a month I went to paint my firewall and taped the frame, when I removed the tape a bunch of the por-15 came off to so I ended up touching up with rustoleum and it seems that that stuck better
I called por-15 and they sent me a quart as replacement but had no explanation why that happened
you can't put por15 on bare metal...it doesn't work.....it likes rust...if you go to bare metal you have to use metal etch
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the feedback guys. I am going to go with some Rustolem and Either some bedliner or 3M undercoating. I ordered a kit of U-POL Raptor liner for my pickup bed and if it isnt to messy I will use it on the Nova.

I havent used POR 15 before but I dont really buy the hype. Since most of my floor is rust free now I will avoid the cost.

Interestingly enough my floors are perfect on the underside, all the rust was in the lowpoint where your feet sit, both in front and back.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
funny, I'm actually painting/sealing my floor pan this weekend. I have my interior out for a 3-point belt install, which required me to weld in plates as anchors for the retractors (similar to this), and decided to weld up the myriad holes I've drilled through the years (I counted 20, excluding the extras from floor shifters I'm not touching) for various bucket seats. Going to protect it with Rust-Oleum since there's (luckily) little to no rust on the floor pan. I've heard mixed reviews on POR-15, and can't justify the price or prep for the minimal rust I have.

I'd suggest going with a truck bedliner or the undercoating for noise reduction, since you don't plan to use Dynamat. I do, so Rust-Oleum it is.
Crap, I didnt think about having to weld plates to the floor for 3 point belts. What belts are you using? I was hoping I could find a bolt-in kit. I should get some belts on the way if I am going to weld to the floor. Frojoe's install looks good but I have new door panels I dont want to cut and I would like a minimal amount of fabrication for the seat belts.
 

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Crap, I didnt think about having to weld plates to the floor for 3 point belts. What belts are you using? I was hoping I could find a bolt-in kit. I should get some belts on the way if I am going to weld to the floor. Frojoe's install looks good but I have new door panels I dont want to cut and I would like a minimal amount of fabrication for the seat belts.
you could bolt in a 3 point setup, but you would be bolting to the floor the same way the plate would be welded. just depends on your skill level, and if you dont mind the look of another few nuts showing under the body.

many vehicles now have bolts that bolt the belt through the floorpan
 

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I am going to go with some Rustolem and Either some bedliner or 3M undercoating. I ordered a kit of U-POL Raptor liner for my pickup bed and if it isnt to messy I will use it on the Nova.

I havent used POR 15 before but I dont really buy the hype. Since most of my floor is rust free now I will avoid the cost.

Interestingly enough my floors are perfect on the underside, all the rust was in the lowpoint where your feet sit, both in front and back.
I built a 1938 coupe oh 16 years ago anyway when I built it I used spray in bed liner on the inside floor pan, 4 years later I wrecked it and had to remove carpet that I glued in, the bed liner came up in big sheets, I took air nozzle with about 150 lb pressure and completely stripped it all up, paint store said you could spray it over primer. That’s bullshit. It needs to be sprayed on dry paint. I went back with trailer paint from tractor supply. About 25$ a galloN and like 15$ for the hardener and that **** will stay there. Hell I painted a 1956 Oldsmobile rat rod with it, all I did was take a rag and wiped it, no sanding and it stayed on there for years. I sold it 3 years after the paint and it still looked ok, faded a bit but still intact
 

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For what it's worth I used the Master Series Permanent Rust Sealer.

Mastercoat Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer - Mastercoat® & The Master Series Coating Line - No More Rust™


I followed it with both types of Lizard Skin for heat and sound reflection. I also used
Lizard Skin under the roof.

I'm still in the rebuilding so I can't offer any experience as to the effectiveness of the
products as my car is still in the garage. I did research all the products and the reviews
were very positive.
I have used Peel and Seal from Lowes many times and had zero problem with it but, it needs to be clean it won't stick to rust and dirt
 

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Rustolium Rusty Metal primer will stick to anything, and it doesn’t ever seem to de-laminate. These oil-based paints work exceptionally well on poorly prepared surfaces; the exact opposite of solvent based paints. They also dry very slowly, taking months to fully “cure”. That’s not a big deal on floor pans and undercarriage areas.
However, if you’re painting body panels, it requires different methods. Some on here will go apesh*t at the mere mention of that, but I’ve never had a problem with these products.
 

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I used POR 15 on undercarriage of my 63 C10. It does NOT stick well on bare metal without the proper prepping or anywhere you have any oil residue. Other than that, 8 years and counting it is holding up and still looks good. I also used it on the inside floor pans of my Nova. To each his own.
 
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