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Discussion Starter #1
My battery been slowly draining. Googled how to check it out. No sure if doing it right not very good with elec. Anyways,bought a meter,pulled off neg.cable pulled 1 fuse at time,meter reads 84.2. Think I've got it set right. Pulled all the fuses out still 84.2. I know what wire going into fuse block is doing it I think. Red wire comes off the horn relay.if I take it off relay meter goes to zero.believe the wire is for ignition and lighter. Any suggestions? Trying to attach picture of meter but not letting me
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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84.2 ...... that no sound right 2 me ,,,,,,

your meter ain't reading the right dial , I'm thinking.

would that be 'jig-a-watts' ...... turn the dial to 12 vdc , and , read just across your 12 volt battery ..... see how that will work.
may-be reads 11.5 to 12.5 volts DC or close. give - or - take


Do you have a "Test-Light" thingy ------ remove your Plus-battery ( + ) cable , and hook-up the test light between the + cable and the + post on your battery ............. you should have a light-on (if you have anything on). like a dome light working, or a " DRAIN on u'r Battery " .

Make it simple -- Light is off ... no drain. -- no problem.

Light IS ON -- then, something is pulling your battery down.

and, that my friend is where you start looking & checking .......... start, simple, by putting all those fuses back-in, then making sure all the car switches are off : key, lights, dome light, cig. lighter, ect ......

Are in the off position .. go from there .. keep us posted


Removing your neg battery cable didn't help .......... when, you are checking OR thinking something might be "draining or shorting" your battery ...... Remove the PLUS BAT. cable.

1st go to the BOTTOM of This Page and look around there :

READ the Similar Threads ... you may find an answer there ...... alot of questions & answers located on each page.
 

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There appear to be 2 red wires associated with the horn relay. One goes to the voltage regulator and the other one goes thru the firewall to become main power. You can trace this wire down using this schematic and remove the appropriate fuses. 85 milliamps at 12v is about 1 watt.

 

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Removing your neg battery cable didn't help .......... when, you are checking OR thinking something might be "draining or shorting" your battery ...... Remove the PLUS BAT. cable.
Either cable will work - it's Kirchoff's current law. The amount of current leaving one battery terminal is the same as the current returning to the other.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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Thank you ----- Mr. Mike

makes more sense ....
 

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My battery been slowly draining. Googled how to check it out. No sure if doing it right not very good with elec. Anyways,bought a meter,pulled off neg.cable pulled 1 fuse at time,meter reads 84.2. Think I've got it set right. Pulled all the fuses out still 84.2. I know what wire going into fuse block is doing it I think. Red wire comes off the horn relay.if I take it off relay meter goes to zero.believe the wire is for ignition and lighter. Any suggestions? Trying to attach picture of meter but not letting me
If you can, post what model meter you have, As far as pictures, load them onto a hosting site and then provide a link to this spot. I use flickr but there are many others out there.

Be aware that not all circuits are protected by fuses you can remove from the fuse block.

If you can in your reply back,include what year make and model you are having issues with and an idea if all of the wiring is stock and original or possibly modified.

In the mean time until you know what is going on, leave the battery cable or cables disconnected when the car is sitting. A drain "could" cause an electrical fire and no one needs to have that happen in the middle of the night and cause even more issues.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've got battery cable off. It is the red wire going to fuse block. I believe the meter is set to mili amps.i will try to get more info tonight after work. It is a 63 and the wiring is basically stock except for 1 wire alt. Fan tach etc. The wire going to fuse block from horn relay is stock.
 

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i was just wondering do you have a light under the hood,trunk,or glove box. i once had an older chevy with a light in the glove box an i kept having a low battery. i had all kinds of things checked an couldn't find the problem. then one night i looked into the car an i could see the dim glow around the edge of the glove box door. problem was a bad switch in glove box.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
don't have glove box light. I took all fuses out and everthing I had hooked to fuse block. took neg terminal off and hooked test light between terminal and cable. it lights up but faintly. meter reads 85 milliamps. lost
 

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Here is a wiring diagram for a 63 with just the main feed circuit highlighted. It does not show any changes from factory like how you said the alternator was changed, as well as other things:



When tracing things down, look for the obvious like did someone maybe leave the old voltage regulator in place and maybe it is energized when it shouldn't be. On the above diagram it looks like the lighter is on a leg of the main feed and maybe this and/or the socket is shorted to ground or drawing power ?.

Also look at the horn relay. I had one on my 68 go south and while I had the horn itself disconnected, I left power going to the relay and it was drawing power due to an internal defect.

If for some reason you have an aftermarket digital radio, the memory circuit on it will draw some power but is should be around 0.01A. Anything over 0.03A means to me the car if it sits a while needs to be on a battery tender or driven every 2 weeks or so for about 50 miles.

Also in my book, every time you drain a battery dead and then charge it back up it's never as good as it once was. Continue the severe deep cycling down to dead and the battery becomes weaker and weaker.

Jim
 

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Now that you know it's not one of the fused circuits it's time to start disconnecting things. First I would unplug the voltage reg. then if no change try the alternator. Any aftermarket accessory like the tach and stereo too.
In the industry 50 M/A is considered the threshold for amp draw, anything over that is considered a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got it figured out I believe. Someone had the tach powered by the lighter wire. Didn't say I was very smart. Thanks for the help all.
 

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Got it figured out I believe. Someone had the tach powered by the lighter wire. Didn't say I was very smart. Thanks for the help all.
If you have it figured out, what is the draw with the power for the tach put on an ignition or accessory spot and without the key on ?.

Ive seen before finding one issue but when if fact it was two or more issues and there is still a problem.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finally got time to hook tach power up to an accessory circuit jim. Meter read 0 milliamps. Hooked test light up also with nothing. I will check battery voltage daily to see if it drops.
 

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You may want to also check the power lead that goes directly into the lighter to see if there is still a slow current draw. Disconnect the power lead from the lighter and connect the meter between the lighter wire and and lighter terminal. Just be careful when you disconnect the power lead to the lighter because that wire is always hot.
A dirty "pop out" cigarette lighter could be drawing a small amount of power even though the lighter is not pushed in.
 

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Finally got time to hook tach power up to an accessory circuit jim. Meter read 0 milliamps. Hooked test light up also with nothing. I will check battery voltage daily to see if it drops.
Hey,things take time don't you know.

0.00 draw means NO draw and that is ideal.

You can check on things now and then but if you have a 0 amp draw but yet if the battery voltage goes from something like 12V down to 9V over the span of lets say a week, then it's probably time for a new battery. On my car this week the battery sat disconnected over the winter and when I measured the voltage to get it ready for the year it was at 12.30V but yet the motor cranked over fine. 12.30V is not a 100% charged battery per so many charts out there online. I was also getting another car ready for a show and it too read 12.4V or so after sitting unused and disconnected over the winter but cranked over fine last night and once running, the voltage went up to around 14V.

Get more familiar with your meter as it will come in handy down the road. I use mine pretty often. Just like last night on a newer build hot rod, the others in the group questioned if the magneto ground wire had a short to ground as it blew a fuse in the fuse block but after some troubleshooting the magneto wire was not grounded out and the fuse that did blow was for the headlights. The magneto circuit is a ground while the headlights are a voltage circuit.

Jim
 
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