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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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ok . . I'd first say : run you a 'Hot wire' , straight to your + side of u'r coil to the pos post . Then start
your engine. That will tell you ALL of your Engine parts are still working : alt ; coil ; starter ; ignition systems
are still good.
Then, go for checking your under hood wires. I'd also check your Fuse Box , for any fuses being bad.
It could be something very simple - check those areas 1st.

Plus, until You find something of issue - - - I would keep your battery disconnected, when
not trouble shooting.

and , keep us posted .


jim
 

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ok . . I'd first say : run you a 'Hot wire' , straight to your + side of u'r coil to the pos post . Then start
your engine. That will tell you ALL of your Engine parts are still working : alt ; coil ; starter ; ignition systems
are still good.
Then, go for checking your under hood wires. I'd also check your Fuse Box , for any fuses being bad.
It could be something very simple - check those areas 1st.

Plus, until You find something of issue - - - I would keep your battery disconnected .

and , keep us posted .


jim
Motor turns over....If I tested the coil correct I think the coil went t.u.....have a new coil and alt. on the way...just in case.
 

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While I agree with you in respect to a 67 I guess the fact that things are done for a particular reason in the actual auto trade goes by many people here. Lexus (or probably any auto mfg) will not pay for a blown ecu because you decided it was inconvenient to do it correctly. It's apparent to me most on here do not have to worry about it however I personally follow proper protocol because I'm actually an automotive professional. I personally witnessed a technician blow every airbag in a Chrysler Sebring during a recall because he did not disconnect the negative battery cable before a repair, 99 times out of 100 it would never happen however it was stated in the instructions to disconnect the "negative" cable and wait 5 mins before continuing on. All these things are done for a reason and regardless of how many degrees people who want to argue the fact have you are incorrect, but as I tell my students "you do you, I'll do it right".
I am with you on everything you have said about removing the neg. cable. I was a high school auto teacher in the late 60's and most of the 70's and attended many GM, Ford, and Chrysler
training sessions and anything I ever heard or read was always about disconnecting the ground cable. That is what I always taught my students.
 

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the entire reason the standard is to unhook neg first is that if you unhook pos first you could touch grounded parts (body panels, etc) with your wrench while undoing the pos side connector, this shorting the battery is the hazard, the danger is while unhooking, once pos is unhooked the battery is just as unhooked from car as if neg was unhooked

if unhooking neg is so important why are all the fuses on the pos side

if you safely unhook pos then still fry boards, integrated circuits, computers, etc you have done something else wrong, its not simply because pos vs neg was unhooked

with modern circuits the important steps are, unhook power, leave enough time for stored power to dissipate (there can be alot of stored energy that takes several minutes to dissipate), wear a ground strap and ground yourself

the static buildup on a human body is enough to fry components in modern electronic just by touching a board that is not even hooked to anything
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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the entire reason the standard is to unhook neg first is that if you unhook pos first you could touch grounded parts (body panels, etc) with your wrench while undoing the pos side connector, this shorting the battery is the hazard, the danger is while unhooking
I can really agree with this . .

Have (anybody) you ever seen or have a battery BLOW-Up (in my face) . YES - I have. (BTDT ) .
And, to this day - I am a very Lucky guy. (and that 'bomb going off' = was entirely my fault ).

We always hear - be careful if you go too jump start another car - YES , by ALL MEANS , be careful.

For that reason = I do un-hook the neg side 1st (and what does anybody loose by doing this - - - - =
about 5 seconds , time well spent ) .



jim
 
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the entire reason the standard is to unhook neg first is that if you unhook pos first you could touch grounded parts (body panels, etc) with your wrench while undoing the pos side connector, this shorting the battery is the hazard, the danger is while unhooking, once pos is unhooked the battery is just as unhooked from car as if neg was unhooked

if unhooking neg is so important why are all the fuses on the pos side

if you safely unhook pos then still fry boards, integrated circuits, computers, etc you have done something else wrong, its not simply because pos vs neg was unhooked

with modern circuits the important steps are, unhook power, leave enough time for stored power to dissipate (there can be alot of stored energy that takes several minutes to dissipate), wear a ground strap and ground yourself

the static buildup on a human body is enough to fry components in modern electronic just by touching a board that is not even hooked to anything
We "auto professionals" follow proper protocol for a myriad of reasons, you can do it or argue it however you want, it does not affect me in the least bit. We teach proper protocol to students starting freshmen year because we want to turn out technicians with good habits. plus you obviously have never seen a battery blow up because the positive was pulled first on a vehicle that was overcharging due to a bad voltage regulator, you'd change your tune quickly if it happened to you, I've seen it. I work on hybrid vehicles that can easily kill you if proper protocol is not performed. I spend my whole life taking shortcuts to beat flat-rate times but electrical is one area that's off the table.
 

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Ok so.... I replaced the harness for the bank that connects the lights, alt, vr, and horn relay...........NOTHING........motor turns over like it wants to start,,,,getting spark, yet it will not fire up. After my phopa of crossing terminals from my charger last week I thought I had this nailed down to the new coil, new vr, new horn relay, and new alt. I checked all wiring, and found that the red wire going into the right side facing firewall was smoked......hence replacing the harness, every other wire looks great. what else could it be? I have not even had this car a month and because of my f... up I cannot enjoy it until either I or someone else can figure this out. at this point I am out of options. Again getting spark but will not fire.....HELP
 

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Ok so the horn relay as I stated in earlier posts was the culprit. Due to my stupidity, when I crossed the charger polarities, the car will not start. I just wrapped up replacing the engine and front harness. Still nothing. Now as I mentioned in one of my earlier posts I had questions about the ceramic block. Before I pulled this it had 2 green wires. As you can see I was able to locate the one off of the front harness. Also I am trying to figure out if this black jumper is needed? This was on the horn relay as well as the 2 red wires that you may or may not be able to see. At this point my only options left are replace the ig. switch, and or the dash harness. Right now I am 100% in the dark (no pun intended. Any info will be a huge help.
 

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1967 Nova SS
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If this has been asked and answered, my bad for asking. You stated that engine turns over but will not start and it is firing. Do you have stand alone coil or HEI?
 
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