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I did get some amusement out of the positive versus negative comments above --- both will work! One way is about 1/1000th safer. On another note you were given some great advice especailly the one about removing each fuse. If you do this and there is no change - then probably the alternator. My 63 was doing the same thing -- and I did the fuse test like mentioned above found out it was a hot circuit / wire not connected to the ignition switch that went to the light switch somehow the reostat (dimmer) in the light swithch went bad and was drawing juice.
 

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I did get some amusement out of the positive versus negative comments above --- both will work! One way is about 1/1000th safer. On another note you were given some great advice especailly the one about removing each fuse. If you do this and there is no change - then probably the alternator. My 63 was doing the same thing -- and I did the fuse test like mentioned above found out it was a hot circuit / wire not connected to the ignition switch that went to the light switch somehow the reostat (dimmer) in the light swithch went bad and was drawing juice.
Just to clarify I never stated the positive will not work, that was never once stated, you are beyond wrong in your assumption that one is 1/1000th safer than the other. I also realize I'm wasting my time explaining to people who do not do it professionally, those of us who actually make a living repairing vehicles, in my case vehicles that cost upwards of 80K we do it that way for a reason. If I blew an ecu or worse on a new Lexus and the company found out I did not follow proper protocol I would most likely be looking for employment elsewhere. And being an educator as well just telling my students to throw caution to the wind and use the positive if it's easier would make me a lousy teacher. As I stated before do it however you want but you will never and I repeat never find a true auto professional do it the other way. And I thought it was just high school students that were thick in the head. :unsure:
 

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Ok.. I measured the battery voltage.. 12.15v. I disconnected the NEG. side of battery. measured between the NEG terminal and the NEG. cable.... 12.15v.....disconnected the quartz clock as the dealership/museum installed... lets see what happens... On a side note who is making OEM fuse boxes.. The one in it is way to new to be 60 yrs old.. Side side note.. someone some time ago hacked up the rear tail lights and driver side parking light. So tracing the rear tail light harness it looks like it goes behind the rear seat.....Last side note. previous owner supplied spring battery cables. Are these OEM?
 

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American Auto Wire and a few others make re-pro fuse boxes so that's not unusual. You can also get factory type wiring harnesses from them if you need that tail light harness re-made. I cant vouch for Nova's but my 67 Chevelle did come with spring type battery cables.
 

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It's a circuit...doesn't matter if you measure on the positive or negative side.
Excuse me??? Try that answer on an ASE test, you will be marked incorrect,
Kirchoff's current law applies here, so from an electrical standpoint it matters not which post of the battery you measure from. If you disconnect the positive battery cable all potential is removed and grounding it has no effect on anything. I don't worry too much about ECU's as my 67 came without one.
 

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Ok.. I measured the battery voltage.. 12.15v. I disconnected the NEG. side of battery. measured between the NEG terminal and the NEG. cable.... 12.15v.....disconnected the quartz clock as the dealership/museum installed... lets see what happens... On a side note who is making OEM fuse boxes.. The one in it is way to new to be 60 yrs old.. Side side note.. someone some time ago hacked up the rear tail lights and driver side parking light. So tracing the rear tail light harness it looks like it goes behind the rear seat.....Last side note. previous owner supplied spring battery cables. Are these OEM?
When you disconnected the clock, did the voltage go to 0.00V ?

There are companies that make OEM looking fuse blocks but you may have to see if they sell just the housing itself if that is all you need.

Most fuse blocks have the clips in them to hold the fuses and then off of the back these wires go into a loom or other connections and if you are needing something like the whole fuse block due to bad fuse clips, a broken housing, or whatever you may have to get an interior harness that will include a new fuse block, new fuse clips, new wire to go to a new interior side firewall bulkhead connector, then new wiring to another new plug for the floor headlight dimmer switch and then even more wiring to the different spots behind the dash requiring electrical connection. Somewhere too on the loom or harness there will be a connector that then another harness attaches to and goes to the rear of the car for the taillights and fuel gauge.

This is a random fuse block and interior harness that is one assembly so to speak:

Harness with Fuse Block Assembly

As far as spring ring battery cables, these were used on particular years and models and without knowing what you have, who knows if they would be correct for your car. You might have stated what year, make, and model car you have in other threads but on questions you ask, state as much info as you can. I'm a lazy MF sometimes and I am not going to look in other threads to see what you "might have" only to find out your question was for another car we know nothing about that you have..

Jim
 

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Kirchoff's current law applies here, so from an electrical standpoint it matters not which post of the battery you measure from. If you disconnect the positive battery cable all potential is removed and grounding it has no effect on anything. I don't worry too much about ECU's as my 67 came without one.
While I agree with you in respect to a 67 I guess the fact that things are done for a particular reason in the actual auto trade goes by many people here. Lexus (or probably any auto mfg) will not pay for a blown ecu because you decided it was inconvenient to do it correctly. It's apparent to me most on here do not have to worry about it however I personally follow proper protocol because I'm actually an automotive professional. I personally witnessed a technician blow every airbag in a Chrysler Sebring during a recall because he did not disconnect the negative battery cable before a repair, 99 times out of 100 it would never happen however it was stated in the instructions to disconnect the "negative" cable and wait 5 mins before continuing on. All these things are done for a reason and regardless of how many degrees people who want to argue the fact have you are incorrect, but as I tell my students "you do you, I'll do it right".
 

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While I agree with you in respect to a 67 I guess the fact that things are done for a particular reason in the actual auto trade goes by many people here. Lexus (or probably any auto mfg) will not pay for a blown ecu because you decided it was inconvenient to do it correctly. It's apparent to me most on here do not have to worry about it however I personally follow proper protocol because I'm actually an automotive professional. I personally witnessed a technician blow every airbag in a Chrysler Sebring during a recall because he did not disconnect the negative battery cable before a repair, 99 times out of 100 it would never happen however it was stated in the instructions to disconnect the "negative" cable and wait 5 mins before continuing on. All these things are done for a reason and regardless of how many degrees people who want to argue the fact have you are incorrect, but as I tell my students "you do you, I'll do it right".
No Novas ever came with airbags, ECU's or any really sensitive electronic equipment. Disconnect either side of the battery and nothing works. No waiting 5 minutes for some capacitors in some device to lose their charge. Modern day Lexus or Chrysler instructions don't apply to 50-year-old Novas.
There is also a difference between measuring parasitic current flow and doing repairs with the battery connected.
 

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No Novas ever came with airbags, ECU's or any really sensitive electronic equipment. Disconnect either side of the battery and nothing works. No waiting 5 minutes for some capacitors in some device to lose their charge. Modern day Lexus or Chrysler instructions don't apply to 50-year-old Novas.
There is also a difference between measuring parasitic current flow and doing repairs with the battery connected.
Call me crazy I guess I just like performing auto repair by professional automotive protocol, something many people on this forum will never understand....no matter how many degrees they have :unsure: .
 

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Not to repeat myself, but to repeat myself. Responses to questions in this forum are valuable and educational. What is done with that information is up to the user.

There are "standards" in procedures for automotive diagnostic and repair. Responses in those standards are good. Also. "today's" equipment is not what existed 50 years ago, BUT how many member's cars are as they were and have the equipment they had 50 years ago. Be safe to say the majority are not.

There are many other DIY methods of what we do or try to accomplish on our cars. This information is also good.

With all the feedback, there are choices. Ultimately how you do it is on You.
 

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Well I figured out the battery drain issue... It is the horn relay....My question is.. what is the ceramic block right next to it?
Let's go back to your original problem first so others can learn.

Can you expand on what the problem was with the horn relay ?.

Can you inform us as to how you found this out ?

As far as the ceramic block, this might be a VERY rare option. I have only seen this on one other car so you might have a 1 of 2 optioned car.

Jim
 

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So when I purchased the car I was told it had a battery drain.. Was told they installed aftermarket chinese clock... Checked that... Nope. Then reading and re reading all the comments I disconnected the NEG. side and checked the voltage....Was getting over 12v....Ok so I replaced the VR... still getting voltage with the NEG. disconnected but charge lasted about 5 days.... So after speaking with some local people.. Tried the Alt.... Still getting a reading... Disconnected fuses......still getting a reading......Disconnected VR...no reading...On to something....So after tracing the wiring diagram in my manual I located what wires are coming off of the VR...... headlight switch....ignition switch and cig. lighter..nope nope nope... Disconnected the harness at the firewall.. connected VR back and got a reading... that narrowed it down to something in the engine bay...Disconnected the horn relay and the ceramic block the VR and the Alt....No reading...Hooked up VR.....no reading....Hooked up Alt....no reading......Hooked up horn relay...got a reading..... hooked up ceramic block....No reading....With everything hooked up getting a reading...Had my assistant (the wife) hold the leads from my voltmeter on the batt. and NEG cable... disconnected horn relay and NO READING... So I feel that is what has been draining the battery is the horn relay...Not to mention when I pulled it off it is showing its age...rust and all. New harnesses are on the way to upgrade the 60 year old harnesses... I hope this persistence helps the next person narrow it down to what it may be.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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if i could get pics to load i would.. all from my phone.

Posting pictures here on SNS = is pretty easy .

If you can post your pic's onto your computer desktop . . IT's REAL easy .
From u'r desktop - - have just the small picture =
"Restore Down" (minimize each "site" = ) , both your desktop & Steve's Nova Site :
(like side - by -side , on u'r desktop)
Then , look at these 'bottom icons - at the lower area of this 'posting box' .
look at the :
1. paper clip (Attachment)
2. Chain links (Insert links)

3. sun & mountains image (Insert image) ................. that's the camera .

4. the camera image (Gallery embed)
5. smiley face ( Smiles icons)
6. 3 dots (Insert)

For posting pictures : Choose # 3 = have your (any) picture on your on u'r desk top ready .
Then , just " Drag & Drop " in your pic . right in your post = you can even add any
"comment for each picture you post" . . very easy .


jim

note :
you CAN Also post several pictures - in the same post :
Then , if I do more than one pic - - I will "number them" - - then, if people have any questions . . just choose a number . . (keeps everyone talking about the same pic ).

I hope this may help . .
 

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I think i f'ed up everything.....left horn relay disconnected... hooked everything back up... no start.... Figured battery died again.. so my dumb ass crossed the terminals from the charger..... F#€&......took a breath back after the zap I got... disconnected battery looked everything over.....re connected horn relay.... connected battery back up and it turns over but wont start... WTF did I do?.. coil? Alt?...
 
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