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Mine has the same issue. Although I am waiting for the transport co. to deliver the dealership stated that it has a battery drain. Now the car is all original with the exceptin of the replacement quartz clock...Would this cause a battery drain?
 

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Ok.. I measured the battery voltage.. 12.15v. I disconnected the NEG. side of battery. measured between the NEG terminal and the NEG. cable.... 12.15v.....disconnected the quartz clock as the dealership/museum installed... lets see what happens... On a side note who is making OEM fuse boxes.. The one in it is way to new to be 60 yrs old.. Side side note.. someone some time ago hacked up the rear tail lights and driver side parking light. So tracing the rear tail light harness it looks like it goes behind the rear seat.....Last side note. previous owner supplied spring battery cables. Are these OEM?
 

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So when I purchased the car I was told it had a battery drain.. Was told they installed aftermarket chinese clock... Checked that... Nope. Then reading and re reading all the comments I disconnected the NEG. side and checked the voltage....Was getting over 12v....Ok so I replaced the VR... still getting voltage with the NEG. disconnected but charge lasted about 5 days.... So after speaking with some local people.. Tried the Alt.... Still getting a reading... Disconnected fuses......still getting a reading......Disconnected VR...no reading...On to something....So after tracing the wiring diagram in my manual I located what wires are coming off of the VR...... headlight switch....ignition switch and cig. lighter..nope nope nope... Disconnected the harness at the firewall.. connected VR back and got a reading... that narrowed it down to something in the engine bay...Disconnected the horn relay and the ceramic block the VR and the Alt....No reading...Hooked up VR.....no reading....Hooked up Alt....no reading......Hooked up horn relay...got a reading..... hooked up ceramic block....No reading....With everything hooked up getting a reading...Had my assistant (the wife) hold the leads from my voltmeter on the batt. and NEG cable... disconnected horn relay and NO READING... So I feel that is what has been draining the battery is the horn relay...Not to mention when I pulled it off it is showing its age...rust and all. New harnesses are on the way to upgrade the 60 year old harnesses... I hope this persistence helps the next person narrow it down to what it may be.
 

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I think i f'ed up everything.....left horn relay disconnected... hooked everything back up... no start.... Figured battery died again.. so my dumb ass crossed the terminals from the charger..... F#€&......took a breath back after the zap I got... disconnected battery looked everything over.....re connected horn relay.... connected battery back up and it turns over but wont start... WTF did I do?.. coil? Alt?...
 

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ok . . I'd first say : run you a 'Hot wire' , straight to your + side of u'r coil to the pos post . Then start
your engine. That will tell you ALL of your Engine parts are still working : alt ; coil ; starter ; ignition systems
are still good.
Then, go for checking your under hood wires. I'd also check your Fuse Box , for any fuses being bad.
It could be something very simple - check those areas 1st.

Plus, until You find something of issue - - - I would keep your battery disconnected .

and , keep us posted .


jim
Motor turns over....If I tested the coil correct I think the coil went t.u.....have a new coil and alt. on the way...just in case.
 

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Ok so.... I replaced the harness for the bank that connects the lights, alt, vr, and horn relay...........NOTHING........motor turns over like it wants to start,,,,getting spark, yet it will not fire up. After my phopa of crossing terminals from my charger last week I thought I had this nailed down to the new coil, new vr, new horn relay, and new alt. I checked all wiring, and found that the red wire going into the right side facing firewall was smoked......hence replacing the harness, every other wire looks great. what else could it be? I have not even had this car a month and because of my f... up I cannot enjoy it until either I or someone else can figure this out. at this point I am out of options. Again getting spark but will not fire.....HELP
 

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Ok so the horn relay as I stated in earlier posts was the culprit. Due to my stupidity, when I crossed the charger polarities, the car will not start. I just wrapped up replacing the engine and front harness. Still nothing. Now as I mentioned in one of my earlier posts I had questions about the ceramic block. Before I pulled this it had 2 green wires. As you can see I was able to locate the one off of the front harness. Also I am trying to figure out if this black jumper is needed? This was on the horn relay as well as the 2 red wires that you may or may not be able to see. At this point my only options left are replace the ig. switch, and or the dash harness. Right now I am 100% in the dark (no pun intended. Any info will be a huge help.
 

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well I am back to square one on the battery drain..This time it seemsvon the dash side now. Disconnected the neg side put a test lamp on as my voltmeter needs a new 9v.. Lit up... disconnected vr nothing reconnected lit up. Unplugged at harness nothing... Side note lights work wipers work heater blower works. no instrument lights... replaced fuse........ANY ONE WANT TO BUY A 63 NOVA SS CONVERTIBLE?
 

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Hang in there, you'll get it.

My suggestion would be to get it running. How did you determine the car is firing? Do you see fuel being squirted in carb when you move the throttle linkage. If spark and fuel is there, no reason it should not run or try to run. Solve this and then work on finding voltage drain.

What changed since you thought it was the horn relay?

I would also make a list of what is connected/disconnect and corresponding results.

If I understand you are currently ok with the harness that goes through the firewall unplugged, right? Plug it back up and remove all the fuses. Check for voltage drain. If there is a voltage drain it has to be something wired direct, not going through fuse block. If no drain, put them back one at a time, checking voltage each time. Wiring issues are extremely frustration.
I started off thinking it was the aftermarket clock the museum installed...Not it... After reading and re reading on here how to check for a drain after disconnecting the neg terminal on the battery and still getting voltage. then pulling ALL fuses.. still getting voltage... Started by replacing vr.... Mind you car would start at this time... Still got a drain but the battery charge lasted a bit longer.... Ok so I traced everything comining off of the vr.. disconnect headlight switch....still get reading on meter with neg. term disconnected... Next Ig. switch.. still get reading... next cig. lighter... Thats not hooked up. so again trace wiring diagram in engine bay... Disconnect harness at fire wall ...still get a reading That is telling me it is in the engine bay.. Check vr again... still get reading.... disconnect horn relay....no reading... have my assitant/wife hold meter on battery post and wire while i double check...It is the horn relay.. connect everything back up... Vrooom starts up... Order new horn relay... In the mean time I want to keep the battery charged.... This is where i poo pooed... I crossed polarities from the charger to the battery.... At this time I had wiring harnesses on order because the front light harness was spliced together with duct tape....not good. Tried to start...turns over and thats it. Checked wiriing at starter.....coil...alt.... vr....dizzy...all looked good... disconnected at the firewall and thats when I noticed the red wire on the front light harness was toast.... checked everything under dash... all checked out ok.... Replaced with new harness....new coil... new alt...new vr... and new horn relay.... To this day car only turns over but will not fire... getting spark at coil and at #1 plug... fuel is squriting in carb....As far as dizzy goes the only thing I did was pull the cap to see if anything under the cap got fried.. all looked good.. dizzy is tight so i dont think the timing got bumped... The only thing I have yet to do is pull cap and turn car over to see if rotor turns..... As far as fuses go wipers work heater fan works... radio did not work prior to my purchase. headlights work... waiting on rear light harness to get here to install that...Cannot figure out why courtesy lights do not work all of the sudden....I am leaning towards replacing the dash harness next just to be safe.. Heavan only knows how boogered up it is under there. Wish me luck
 

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So here goes.....

BATT VOLTAGE-----12.85
TEST 1 DISC. FRONT LIGHT HARNESS AT F/W 1.65
TEST 2 DISC. VR---------1.45
TEST 3 CONNECT @ F/W RE CONNECT VR--------12.75-12.80
TEST 4 DISC. IG. S/W-------8.0
TEST 5-------DESC. HEADLIGHT SWITCH------7.70
TEST 6 DISC. IG HARNESS-----------1.75
TEST 7 DISC. FRONT LIGHT HARNESS AGAIN---AT THIS POINT EVERYTHING BEING TESTED IS ENGINE BAY ONLY----------1.75

So so that the engine bay is reading 1.45-1.75 thoughts on this ??????? Then with test 4 showing 8.0 after the ig. s/w is disconnected would this lead me to believe the problem has now become the ig. s/w, causing the batt drain and why would the motor crank if the switch is bad? Again. new harnesses, new coil, new alt, new vr, and the original culprit a new horn relay.

On a side note... Once you remove the headlight switch and reconnect it to test and can't figure out why voltage is rising..... Do Not forget to turn it back off...
 
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