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Well I just bought my first Nova. She needs alot of work. I plan to strip it most of the time but I want street legal for an occasiional cruise. I am planning a natural aspirated 434 SB maybe add spray later. I want to push the edge on SB horsepower on a decent budget. What are the best heads and cam combo to make the most horsepower? I was thinking either Dart Pro 1 or Brodix Track 1 and a solid roller cam. Any suggestions if you could do it all over again from scratch?
 

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No need to push the edge, I got less cubes than you mentioned, only 10.8:1 compression, Brodix Track 1's and a roller cam that the average "expert" would consider too small for my combo. Runs dandy on unleaded 93 octane and does far better than the majority of cars that are lighter and have more "race car stuff"..


 

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You go as fast as your $$$ allows.....we have a 23* 434 w/ 14.5 comp and a bunch of goodies w 23* heads and made 765hp on the dyno. 9.20's in 3200lb car. It's a 17k engine.

So before you even start..what is your budget!!! And remeber this...you can only choose 2 of these......FAST, DURABLE, or CHEAP !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I still haven't developed a budget, that's how green I am right now. I was definitelt thinking $7,000 to $10,000 for the motor. I was going to go with forged everything so i could add the spray later on. Novaca1n brings up a good point which I think is that you really need to make sure all your parts work very well together. I am hoping to run in the 9's with my combo.
 

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Novaca1n,
I know it must have been posted before, but what is your combo and how fast has it run?
Mike, here's a post I made a week or so ago.


3418lb '71 Nova
427" SBC (standard bore)
Static compression is 10.87:1
Brodix Track 1 heads
BSE solid roller cam
Super Victor I ported myself
TH350 trans
ATI 8" converter
4.56 gears
DOT drag radials
Full 3" exhaust
1800rpm footbrake launch
Unleaded 93 octane pump gas

More importantly is what it doesn't have...Things like a power adder, race gas, a big block, rim screws, slicks/bias ply tires, transbrake, electric fuel pump, fuel regulator, electric water pump or even an aluminum mechanical pump, dominator, raised runner/non 23* heads, a magic camshaft from one of the self proclaimed internet specialists, as well as others...Need not apply!

On its first day out I went 10.16 @ 128 with a 1.33 60 foot. No tuning whatsoever, it's got a lot more left in it.
 

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AFR is my choice in the head
 

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No "ONE" part makes a car...it's the "COMPLETE COMBO " Motor, trans, converter, gear, tire and susp !!! I guarantee you can put Joe's motor in 10 different cars and not be as fast as he runs!!! It's not a difficult thing to do all it takes it time and reasearch !!! My engine builder told me a long time ago..."It is much cheaper to go fast the first time, rather then cut corners and have to do it 4-5 times!!!"
 

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Here ya go,
434 , compltete RACE ROLLER motor.
GM block with splayed caps. Filled. New 77H race bearings (Rod and Mains). EAGLE 4340 Crankshaft. LUNATI PRO MOD RODS. JE 13.1 pistons. New TOTAL SEAL MAX SEAL Rings. 7 qt MOROSO pan with windage tray. CANTON aluminum reusable oil filter. ATI SUPER DAMPER.

AIR FLOW RESEARCH 227 factory ported aluminum heads with 2.1.intake, 1.65 ex. New roller springs and guides. AIR FLOW RESEARCH Stud gurdle.LUNATI Roller cam. .656 in. .668 ex. Lunati roller lifters. COMP CAMS PRO MAGNUM rockers.
EDELBROCK Victor intake. MSD Crank trigger distributor and MSD wires.
SFI flexplate.

Motor is primed and ready to go. MUST SELL $6500. WILL SEPERATE TOP AND BOTTOM END.

Tony 614-599-6546
 

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AFR is my choice in the head
That's what I'm running in my 383 Al. I just removed some 210's that were a couple of years old and installed the newer eliminator versions. We'll see if there is any difference in ET. The old AFR's went on the backup engine.

I'd be interested in seeing what Joe's would run with a set of comparable AFR's
 

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No "ONE" part makes a car...it's the "COMPLETE COMBO " Motor, trans, converter, gear, tire and susp !!! I guarantee you can put Joe's motor in 10 different cars and not be as fast as he runs!!! It's not a difficult thing to do all it takes it time and reasearch !!! My engine builder told me a long time ago..."It is much cheaper to go fast the first time, rather then cut corners and have to do it 4-5 times!!!"
That's correct, not to mention that he is running in DA that I will never see at my track. Joe's car is set up very well!
 

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Fess up...what's the net lift?
.647/.662

Probably would do better with 1.6 rockers on the intake, but it's not the lift that is small, it's the duration:D The whole profile is strange looking and I had many many people tell me "it won't work", "it will be slow"...Needless to say they were very quiet after my first pass:turn:

I'd be interested in knowing exactly which Track 1 head you have. Have a part number?
Not sure if I have a part number, gotta look, I'll shoot you a PM if I do.

Here ya go,
434 , compltete RACE ROLLER motor.
GM block with splayed caps. Filled. New 77H race bearings (Rod and Mains). EAGLE 4340 Crankshaft. LUNATI PRO MOD RODS. JE 13.1 pistons. New TOTAL SEAL MAX SEAL Rings. 7 qt MOROSO pan with windage tray. CANTON aluminum reusable oil filter. ATI SUPER DAMPER.

AIR FLOW RESEARCH 227 factory ported aluminum heads with 2.1.intake, 1.65 ex. New roller springs and guides. AIR FLOW RESEARCH Stud gurdle.LUNATI Roller cam. .656 in. .668 ex. Lunati roller lifters. COMP CAMS PRO MAGNUM rockers.
EDELBROCK Victor intake. MSD Crank trigger distributor and MSD wires.
SFI flexplate.

Motor is primed and ready to go. MUST SELL $6500. WILL SEPERATE TOP AND BOTTOM END.

Tony 614-599-6546
How fast did this go in what type of car?

AFR is my choice in the head
That's what I'm running in my 383 Al. I just removed some 210's that were a couple of years old and installed the newer eliminator versions. We'll see if there is any difference in ET. The old AFR's went on the backup engine.

I'd be interested in seeing what Joe's would run with a set of comparable AFR's
Hard to say, when I first started designing this combo I was looking at the AFR 227's. What really turned me off was the 60/40 valve spacing, as I already have a $350 set of rockers and I didn't plan on buying new ones. AFR is known for being cost effective, but when you buy all new valve train what are you saving? I chose Brodix over AFR because after research on the AFR 227, I really wasn't impressed. I found a lot of people having problems with them, and many who said they didn't flow what was advertised/didn't pour the advertised intake runner either. To the best of my knowledge, this hasn't happened in many years and all their stuff is good now, but I still didn't want to take a chance. I've always liked Brodix stuff, plus these heads were cheaper and I used all my old valvetrain.

I believe AFR got so big due to the magazines and everybody pushing them. In my honest opinion, I feel there are far better cylinder head companies out there. I can't remember the last time I saw any major heads up class champion using an AFR head, but I do see a lot of Brodix/Dart/Edelbrock/All Pro etc..

Just my opinion.
 

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I believe AFR got so big due to the magazines and everybody pushing them. In my honest opinion, I feel there are far better cylinder head companies out there. I can't remember the last time I saw any major heads up class champion using an AFR head, but I do see a lot of Brodix/Dart/Edelbrock/All Pro etc..
I feel they make a good product, but a lot of porters aren't real impressed by them out of the box. And like you say, the record books don't seem to support their reputation. I have run their heads for many years with good luck, but who's to say I wouldn't be going a lot faster with another head?
 

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You can buy a race ready Nationwide SB2 from RCR for around 15k with a 950 carb you will make over 800 HP, and live at 9000 RPM, something to think about
 

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I remember the post now--it runs damn good!
My old 414" big compression engine ran [email protected] on a really crappy day on a loose track--I always felt the cam was WAY wrong, but Lunati's engineers designed it and gave me a whole bunch of free parts so........I never got around to trying anything else. The one in the 410" is an Isky 260/[email protected]/.617" lift because I couldn't fit anything bigger with my flat top pistons.
 

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I remember the post now--it runs damn good!
My old 414" big compression engine ran [email protected] on a really crappy day on a loose track--I always felt the cam was WAY wrong, but Lunati's engineers designed it and gave me a whole bunch of free parts so........I never got around to trying anything else. The one in the 410" is an Isky 260/[email protected]/.617" lift because I couldn't fit anything bigger with my flat top pistons.
Thanks Mike, I appreciate it:D

You've always done more with less, I almost made my car red oxide with centerlines because of your car! (not a joke, totally serious) ..My dad would kill me if I did though, we kind of own a body shop:rolleyes:

Just out of pure curiosity, do you happen to know the duration @ .020 and LSA on that Isky grind?
 

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Just out of pure curiosity, do you happen to know the duration @ .020 and LSA on that Isky grind?
It's on 106° I have the opening and closing at .050, and seat to seat, but I don't remember if they came out of my dyno program or Isky. The Isky site just got rebuilt and isn't working correctly. I think the cam card is at my shop. BTW, I have 1.6 rockers on the intake-it's a .410 lift lobe.

.050 numbers-- IO-24 IC-56 EO-60 EC-28
seat to seat-- IO-41 IC-73 EO-77 EC-45
 

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novacain and bowtie both your combos run excellent....I'm impressed. My 406 wouldn't run nowhere near bottom 10's without spray.
 
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