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Discussion Starter #1
how to check? how do the pro's do it? imagine an axis through your housing that originates at the carrier mounting points. now extend that standard the length of your axle tubes and find it to be centered at the ends of your axle tubes. a jig perhaps?
a jig.

by the way, that word: alignment; is it in your spell checker? if it is in a line (we know what a line is) where and why is the G?
 

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Most people use a center line to check things like this. With the car level side to side, drop plumb bobs from the frame rails at the front and rear. Measure from these to find the center of the front and rear. Run a string down the center of the car. Drop plumb bobs off the rearend from the same place on each side. Measure from those plumb bobs to a place on the center string that forms a triangle. If the dimension is the same on both sides, it's straight.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
oops, sorry...

I mean the housing itself. It's been narrowed, tubes welded to housing, six 'plug-welds' in housing, brackets have been cut off and new brackets have been welded on.
I'm concerned that all the heat may have warped the tubes. I've seen those 'alignment jigs' advertised but are quite pricey. So I'll attempt to build my own.
I scrounged up a pair of alternator pulleys (don't laugh yet) that are the same O.D. as the carrier races. I plan to drill their center holes to 3/4" and position them into the housing saddle clamps. Then I can run a long piece of 3/4" O.D. tubing through them. Where the tubing exits the housing ends, I should be able to measure that it is centered. I'm hoping this little bit of redneck engineering will show me what I need to know.
Bad news is more than likely I will find the housing to be warped. Not sure how to go about straightening it. Wish my shop press was a lot larger.
I'd hate to have to mount it in a fixture and brutalize it with the torch and pry bars, but it may take me there. I was toying with the idea of perhaps modifying my shop press into a 'one-time use, axle housing press'. Or build a fixture using a bottle jack.
Not sure, any ideas?
 

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Yes, it's done with a jig. You can buy them through Summit or Jeg's type outlets. They aren't cheap, so I wouldn't waste my money unless you will be doing lots of them. Have a reputible shop who does housing weld the tubes (if replacing or shortening the rear end width) & ends on. I would recommend using good ends also, such as Mark Williams.
 

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The fixture would be the ticket if you can find someone who has one. I run spools in all my cars and if the axels slip in and out with no problems I figure the tubes are OK. I also run moly tubes with .250 walls so they don't flex or bend easily either. I also tig weld the tubes all the way around at the housing to stop leaks, as well as strenghten the attachment. I only use a 12 bolt in the one car which is required by the rules for that class. I have a Dana in the one car and a 9 in Ford in the other. I did the Dana the same as the 12 bolt though. RM
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Installed my 'custom made' alignment checking jig today. Found both axle tubes bent forward and down. Interesting, guess that's what happens with 750 HP, 32x18 drag slicks, and a trans brake (rear came out of my buddy's super gas car).
Real McCoy, interesting side note to your earlier comment, the axles DID slid right out of the spool nice and easy. And this bugger IS bent, so BEWARE.
Now I'm fabbing up a base to attatch to the housing for the bottle jack to set uppon the correct angle to pull on the tubes.
I can post a couple pix if any one is interesred in this. Hey, if the axle housing turns out straight when I'm done then thats just what it needs to be. Who cares if I didn't pay freight both ways to some expert. $$$ I spent $50 bucks on a 20 ton bottle jack today and you can bet I'll weld the chain to it if I have to:cool:
 
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