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I would look for a name brand setup and not some cheapaneasium ebay stuff.

Doing electrical will require some research and any fuses you put in are to protect the wire past it and the wire gauge needs to be of sufficient size to support the load. In other words you cannot use 20 gauge wire on a 30A circuit as this is not safe but the opposite costs more money (using a 10 gauge wire when a 20 gauge is plenty.

Your relays too also need to be sized properly.

With all the stuff out there on informational video's, look and watch as much as you can.

Do some searches here on this site and see what turns up.

You are not the first wanting to do this nor will you be the last.

You just want things safe and reliable.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bear with me trying to figure out how to reply,😂 I had everything perfect until the car was wrecked, had multiple relays Holley EFI Sniper, auxiliary fan, the fuel pump is covered with Holly Sniper unit. What happened was I ran out of switched circuits. So I built a little relay/fuse panel, attach is photo. I am not sure exactly what to do with blue and white wires
 

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On a cube relay what you have shown, you might have 4 or 5 terminals out of the base if it.

On "most" relays you have 2 terminals that are for an activation "coil" to basically close a set of contact points to then either throw power to some thing or connect a ground from something on another set of contact points depending on how things are wired.

Basically you have two things going on with a relay and a relay has a lot of flexibility as to what it can all do. 4 terminal cube relays have less flexibility than the 5 terminal ones but like anything else, more terminals cost more.

On a relay activation coil, you can have power going to one side and then to activate it connect a ground on the other terminal but then can have one side of the coil connected to ground and then have it activated by 12V being applied to the other terminal.

Maybe browse through this link Basic Car Audio Electronics

On the right side there is a menu that has different information on basic things like relays, fuses, wire,and so on.

Section 36 on relays might help you out.

Jim
 

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To add to this, there are companies out there that can build custom panels BUT they will need input from you to get the right designed setup built.

Some electrical things require switched grounds while others need switched power SO let them know this.

In other words, have your guns loaded with what you have on the car with model numbers as well as technical info as to what things draw as far as current (amperage) and then also have a plan as to where you want to mount things. DO NOT assume they will know what you have.

Jim
 

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Bear with me trying to figure out how to reply,😂 I had everything perfect until the car was wrecked, had multiple relays Holley EFI Sniper, auxiliary fan, the fuel pump is covered with Holly Sniper unit. What happened was I ran out of switched circuits. So I built a little relay/fuse panel, attach is photo. I am not sure exactly what to do with blue and white wires
Can you pull one of these relay cubes out and take a picture of the contact diagram on it? Or provide brand and part number of the relay in question with the blue and white wire?
 

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I went to my shop and have a similar relay as I see on your board. Based on color codes and what is wired to your board already:

Relay terminal 85, black wire, ground to relay coil. (Already terminated).

Relay terminal 30, red wire, positive to fuse panel. (Already terminated).

Relay terminal 86, white wire, coil positive. Connect to device or switch you want to activate the relay. Example: if its a switch, you will need to run a positive wire to the switch from the same red wire feeding the relay from the fuse panel terminal 30, then connect this white wire to other side of switch. This will feed power to the coil and close contact terminals 30 and 87.

Relay terminal 87, blue wire, connect this to the load device you are operating, like a fan or fuel pump, etc.

I'm making assumptions based on what I see on your relay board that is already wired to the relays. Hope this helps answer your question. Let me know if not.

Bob
 

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Bear with me trying to figure out how to reply,😂 I had everything perfect until the car was wrecked, had multiple relays Holley EFI Sniper, auxiliary fan, the fuel pump is covered with Holly Sniper unit. What happened was I ran out of switched circuits. So I built a little relay/fuse panel, attach is photo. I am not sure exactly what to do with blue and white wires
My first concern is that your "Chineseum" fuse panel is most likely limited to 20A per circuit. I've seen people use 25A or 30A fuses in panels that look like that, or even 40A fuses. Generally speaking, those panels melt when you do that, and you have a big problem then (maybe even a fire). Your relays look like they are adequate for 30A per relay, but if the panel won't handle that safely, that doesn't matter.

What exactly are you powering with these circuits? Can every circuit get by with just 20A?

Your Holley Sniper unit does include a relay for a fuel pump, so it can directly power the fuel pump from it's own fuel pump relay.

You mention fans, I'm guessing that's for radiator fans? How many electric radiator fans are you running? Do those fans have 2 wires (power and ground), or 3 wires (low speed power, high speed power and ground? And are you controlling those fans with the Holley Sniper unit?

Generally speaking, the blue wires on those relay sockets will send relay switched power to whatever you're using the relays for. So, a fan relay will have the blue wire connected to the fan. The white and black wires are for the coil of the relay and how those are connected depends on what is controlling them.
 

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Just to throw this out, as there are so many companies out there today, but my meager search using google could not show who WUPP actually was. If someone else does a better search and can supply who this WUPP setup is from, please supply a link or screen shots of the specifications.

On some searches it looks like this fuse block does come with fuses to use and it includes 2-5A fuses , and 2-10A fuses, and 4-15A fuses and then 4-20A fuses SOOOOOO, with that said, I wonder why they do not include 25, 30, or even 40A fuses ?.

If I were to do reverse engineering, with a 6 slot fuse block, the most that could be used would be 4-20A fuses and then 2-15A fuses for a total of 110A of total fusing. I then wonder how big the main power and ground terminals are on that fuse block and what they can actually handle. They would need to handle 110A of current which to me would be at LEAST a 4 gauge wire in my book.

Granted the block may only be used on the minimum size with 2-5A fuses, 2-10A fuses, and then 2-15A fuses in place and then now the total draw would be 60A and then in my book would require an 8 gauge power and ground off of the main terminals on the block.

Funny too how on my limited search, there is nothing I can find as far as specs as to what gauge wire needs to be used to supply power as well as what would be used on the ground side.

Granted short runs of 8 gauge wire should handle a higher amperage load, I believe that if I need 60A or less in a car on let's say a 15' run of wire, then I need to run an 8 gauge wire. This is just me and one could go a little one way or the other on amperage VS length VS gauge VS wire type but one just has to look at the overall picture.

If you want to run things on the edge, run bigger wire and higher amperage capable setups.

Jim
 

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The first one I was using was the one provided with my engine harness.

I needed more than two relays and 10 fuses so I then got a 10 relay 20 fuse box from Amazon but I didn't like that it was kind of big and not very custom.
Electronic instrument Audio equipment Window Musical instrument accessory Machine


This past January I went with a modular unit with way more relays of different sizes and more fuses of different sizes. It's also smaller than the previous unit. You can see the size difference between the two. I purchased the modules, brackets, some fuses and connectors from connectorid.com
Electrical wiring Motor vehicle Cable Electronic engineering Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I’d like to thank everybody for their input on my project. Wiring is overwhelming for me, so what I was trying to do was just a simple auxiliary fuse panel for the engine compartment. At this time nothing is hooked up, prior to the wreck of the car I had been getting my auxiliary power from the junction block on the front passenger side corner. In your replies I have several questions ask of me, The best way for me to answer this would be to list what I have.
Battery has been relocated to the trunk.
One relay for electric fan
One relay to activate 12 V switched on for Holley Sniper EFI unit
One Summit CD box, (it was not hooked up to a relay)

hope you can follow this:
The engine was reinstalled after the wreck. I had to purchase a new distributor because the HEI unit I had broke from hitting the firewall. So I upgraded and purchased the Holley Hyper Spark Distributor and Coil. Everything was locked up and I fired up the engine. Everything was great all I was waiting for was sheet metal from Classic Industries. Since I was waiting for parts I decided to do one other upgrade which was a mini high torque starter. When I got it it only had one spade terminal on the solenoid and I was supposed to use a diode to terminate my yellow wire. I got ahead of myself and snipped off the ring terminal of the new wiring harness I purchased. Like I said my wiring abilities stink but I do always solder heat shrink any wiring and end terminals. (see my photo earlier in thread) I put the original OEM starter back on crimped a ring terminal on the end of the purple wire. Told myself I would come back and solder it later since I was laying under the car at that time.

I then did something stupid I was rolling through my shop and then I passed the drivers door of my Nova I wanted to hear the engine run so I reached in turn the key and fired it up. Retrofitted roller cam and a Chevy small block 400 and it sounded great! About 10 seconds later my starter engaged into the flex plate I have been realized the starter problem I didn’t finish. I then got out underneath the car and everything and soldered a new ring terminal on the wire. After all the wiring starter check it over I got up and started the car
 
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