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AutoMeter Gauges

186 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Bart2112
Good morning and Happy Friday to you all. I am hooking up Autometer 2392 oil and temp gauges to my 1971. I was looking for power and ground for the gauge lighting. After reading a few things, I came across something about radio wiring. I found this by where my radio would go. Gray wire for light source and black for ground????? I would have to cut and splice into the gray and black wires but am I on the right track? Thank you in advance and a Happy/Safe Memorial Day.
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On your fuse block there are 1/4" male terminals that I call "taps" that are used to add accessories. These taps are protected by neighboring fuses in the fuse block.

The LPS terminal only has output when the headlight switch is pulled halfway out or all the way out and varies it's output depending on the rotation of the headlight knob. The neighboring fuse protects that output as well as the wiring going to your dash illumination lights, the factory dial illumination light, and possibly heater control lighting.

Below is on my 68 and on the bottom left corner I have a right angle 1/4" female terminal plugged into the LPS tap. This was to add a light for my heater controls and now the light on the heater controls works in conjunction with the instrument panel lighting.



I don't know why I chose brown but if you can, use a gray wire this way as it will match better the wiring color that the instrument panel lights use. Later it might come in handy with that color if one needs to troubleshoot stuff.

Jim
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I have the tachometer plugged into the LPS tap already. That is why I was asking about tying into the wiring that I took a picture of and included in my initial post. Thank you for the response.
Then what you do is take the wire already in that spot out, then make up a Y connector plug with one female terminal going out to two male terminals and plug this female connector off of the Y to the male in the fuse block then plug in what was there before to the first male connector off of the Y connector plug and the plug in your second item into the second male connector off of the Y connector plug.

By doing this setup with plugs, should an issue arise, you can unplug everything off of the LPS terminal and then if needed plug back in one added accessory at a time until the fault reoccurs.

While a little bit different in how the factory did it, below is when a factory clock gets plugged into the BAT terminal of the fuse block. The wire then was made with a short pigtail with a male terminal in it to plug in a second device or to plug back in what was originally in the BAT terminal. This can go on and one with what I call daisy chaining but one has to watch out for overloading things.



JIm
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And by the way, chances are that plug you showed that was by the radio is for lighting up the heater control panel.

You can certainly cut that light socket off and splice in what you want but I was showing an optional way and an easier way to troubleshoot things later if needed.

Jim
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I agree Jim that is most likely the heater control light. You can splice into it or run a wire back to the LPS terminal on the fuse block, either way works. You can use a voltmeter to verify it comes on and dims with gauge lighting.
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Thank you both for the responses, I'm going to run the positive wire on the gauge lights to the gray heater light wire. Then run the negative wire from the gauge lights to the black heater light wire. Have a good weekend and Happy Memorial day
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