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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. I’m trying to install the clutch pedal on my 72. Luckily there is already a hole in the firewall for the pedal linkage but my concern is mounting the new pedals to the preexisting auto bracket. I’m sure removing the steering column is a given but can I get the pedals on there without removing the bracket? Looks like the bracket share the same bolts as the brake booster. I’d like to avoid removing that if possible.
 

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You don't have to remove the steering column or the brackets for the pedals. The automatic brake pedal and the standard clutch and brake pedal all mount on the same brackets. The rod that goes through the brake pedal arm has a clip on the right hand side. Push the clip towards the rod to release from the end grove. Remove clip and slide the rod out to the left. The brake pedal will fall out. The clutch and brake pedal for a standard trans goes back in the same way, be sure that the clip that keeps the rod in place is correctly installed into the end grove so that the rod can not slide back to the left and come out of the brackets.
 

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Sorry I made a mistake. The rod is connected to the automatic brake pedal, once you remove the clip pull the pedal with rod connected out. The clutch pedal has the rod connected and goes through the first part of the bracket and then line up the brake pedal with the rod coming through push the clutch pedal and rod all the way to the right and install the clip.
 

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^^^^^^^^

I agree --- you DO NOT have to remove the "pedal Support Bracket" or the "Steering column". leave both of them bolted in place.

When I did all my change-over ,

Let me say it this way .. MAKE SURE all the "Pins Fit" each place they go too.

I put everything together and checked the pins ..... but, DID NOT check the new clutch pedal & pin. After Getting ALL MY Pedals Together , I could not get my "Clutch Clevis Pin to go through my new clutch pedal". It DID FIT the "clevis on the clutch rod .. but .. not the pedal hole. At that point -- I had to remove all those parts and DRILL OUT that HOLE to like 3/8's.

SO, make sure each pin (Brake pedal pin to brake M/C clevis fits .
And, the Clutch rod clevis pin fits the clutch pedal hole).

been there ....

I also installed a clutch pedal "Clutch Safety Switch" .... just unplug your column mounted "Auto Neutral safety switch" ....... and plug that into the "clutch safety switch" ...... if you install one.
(Bought my clutch safety switch from " HeartBeatCity.com" , $ 65.00)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks so much for the detailed reply 72 Duce. Yeah, I was eyeballing it earlier and looks like it can be done without a lot of disassembly. I got one on those manual conversion kits from SS396.com and looks to have everything I need. I may tear into it during the Thanksgiving holiday. Thanks Jim. I didn’t think to double check the pin fits but I definitely will now. Probably will save me a couple hours of pain and suffering lol :yes:
 

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One thing that I DID DO .........

I Did Remove my Bench Seat , just made it much easier laying on the floor & getting under the dash.

Plus, removing the front seat was way easier than any other parts.
Throw a blanket down to lay on ...... and ...... it's not bad.
(then, I had to (almost) had to do it twice .... lol

just my 2cents
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was thinking of yanking that bench seat out as well. At my age I say work smart not hard. Anything to make life easier lol.
 

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I just DID This .... back last Feb/March .

So , What type of "stick shift" ..... ?

I have my stock motor .. 250 - I6 & was a p/g .

Then, went to a 93 GMC Sonoma B/W world - class T 5 5speed , using all the "stock Nova clutch Pedals & stock linkage". I am even using the "stock T 5 shifter" for now.

Worked Very Good.

Now , I have a 250 (155 hp) - I-6 , with an OFFY intake, Holley 390 carb, and , "StoveBolt cast iron headers .......... with my new T 5
and, stock 3.08 rear gears .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I found a Muncie M20 for a decent price on Craigslist with a Hurst Competition Plus linkage. I really wanted to go with a 5 speed. So with that T5, did you have any clearance problems with the trans tunnel? Did it bolt up to the stock bell housing and cross member?
 

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Stock T5 -- bolted to stock "GM 3858403 " bell housing. You have to:
Drill out the bolt holes ... on the T5 mounting ears (they are threaded
.... drill ears with 1/2" bit.

#1



my T 5 : from : a 93 GMC S-15 Sonoma 2wd, 2.8 V6 . This trans fit with "no adapter needed" . you need to cut 1/4" off the "input shaft" and cut off 1 1/2" off the front bearing 'retainer' (where the
throw-out bearing "rides on".
The T 5 trans uses the "same GM pilot bushing , Nova (GM) stock pressure plate (10 1/2") , and stock GM 153 tooth flywheel.
You DO NOT CUT ANY of Your TRANNY TUNNEL --- just, cut the "Hole for the Shifter" ...

#2



My easy "trans - cross member mod" ..... and this was to 'drop the trans , so, it would - not - bump - against the floor'.
Use the T-5 slip-yoke, use your stock p/g tranny mount (bolts right-up).

#3



If you have a standard shift car .... this IS a VERY EASY & GREAT UP Grade (for a Six Cylinder car).


#4 ... the stock GM 403 "bell housing" ...... sbc bellhousing's fit the Chevy six

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Jim for all the useful information. Can’t believe I haven’t heard about this swap till now. Just so happens I’m using the 403 housing and 10 ½” flywheel. I have a V8, 195 HP GM 350 crate motor close to 300lbs torque but I think this trans would do well behind it as long as I don’t beat on it too hard. I’m putting the Muncie in for now but definitely going to keep an eye out for one of these. And by the way the underside of your car looks fricken clean! :thumbsup:
 

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You noticed how clean , under my car .......... YOU ARE Correct.
the Whole car IS that way , it's showing 81,229 miles , and , I always think it's that way ------ it's rolled over ------ 181,000 plus.
BUT, that's how clean this car IS , I even have the "lower A/C plastic panel" under the front bumper.
Here's another 'shot' of my trans crossmember mod .. at the frame rail. The 'two white circled hoses are for mounting the 'stock cross
member with the stock powerglide.
All I did was bolt the cross member to the tranny mount , put crossmember into position and it came-out matching the "rear mounting hole (look at the sharpie silver line. Just drill a 3/8" hole and you're good to go. I did add a "spacer" , just to keep from bending the crossmember.

Pictures ARE Golden ...... and ...... look at the "under-side of the floors"

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#2 drill 3/8" hole , and install spacer & bolt



#3 over all view of stock p/g crossmember with simple "lowered centered section --- spell that very easy.



#4 Trans crossmember mounted into position (enlarge picture for best view).




and, you can see the "shifter hole" --- that's the only mod to the floor tunnel ...

Thanks for looking
 
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