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Discussion Starter #1
and I just want to say F**K it all.

You may have seen my fuel tank thread. I had a sump welded to a BRAND NEW Goodmark tank to use with an electric fuel pump. That set me back $50 which I figured was a great deal. The guy is supposed to be the best local welder and he does a lot of welding for a friend of mine. So, after weeks of careful planning ... and painting of the tank I put it in as well as an entirely new fuel system. But the stupid tank leaked. Had a tiny tiny tiny pinhole leak where the sump was welded on the passenger side of the tank. OK ... I'll take the blame for this one. I should have water checked it like was suggested. But this guy is supposed to be the best, so I didn't.

Drain out 14 gallons of fuel in my driveway and remove the fuel tank. I take the welder the tank and he repairs the weld. This time I was smart enough to water test it when I got it home. Still leaks. Same spot but much smaller leak. Now the guys sick and out of commision for a few months.

So I take the tank to the local radiator and tank shop. They say there's spider cracks in the tank. Blame it on the thinner gauge aftermarket tank. Whatever ... just make it right I tell them. So $125 later they grind down the welds and weld in a plate that runs the length of the sump. They put air in it to test it they tell me. Great! I pick it up 40 minutes ago. Run it home, fill it with water and the F**KING thing leaks in 4 places now. All along the repair they made.

I just hope the tank can even be used now. What if the thing has been worked on so much that it's no good? I don't know much about metalurgy, I'm just really frustrated right now and needed to vent.

It's experiences like this that make you wonder why you even do it.
 

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Looks to me like the guy that welded the tank for you would have tested it. I would, no way I would let something like that leave my shop without making sure it was right to begin with.
Sounds to me like the guy doesnt know much about welding sheetmetal.....its a SLOW process if you want to do it right.....too much heat can cause problems, like the ones you are having now.
 

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Oh Man !!! and it was lookin' SO good too... i'm sorry ta hear 'bout it. :(

hope a resolution of sorts turns out good for ya ;)
 

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what really should have been done in my opinion was to have the sump welded in and the tank should have been resealed...the welding would make the sealant in that area crackle up and go away....i had my tank cleaned, powdercoated and will now be resealed as the heat from baking the powdercoat takes care of the previous sealant...

was the leaking area obvious in the weld, meaning did he even notice it...was it tig'd, mig'd....

that would have never left our shop without testing either, even as minor testing as putting some water in it....but i have to be honest and say thats a pretty much straightforward deal there, any half competent weldor (no saying he is or is not) should be able to handle that task
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure if it was mig or tig welded. But the Gas Tank repair shop said the tank had spider cracks in it from the way it was welded on. That's why they used a "plate" to repair the tank. I don't know why the first guy didn't test it, but the Tank Shop said they tested it with air. I don't know how because it obviously leaks. I'll call them tuesday morning and see what they have to say. At this point it's been about 3 weeks since I've really driven my car and I'm getting antsy.
 

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I got two words for you....fuel cell. I got tired of pissing around with a stock tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DriveWFO said:
I got two words for you....fuel cell. I got tired of pissing around with a stock tank.
Funny you should suggest that. I was just looking at the Summit 16 gallon Pro Street Fuel Cell. That's what you have? How does it mount? Cut a hole in the trunk floor for the sump area to fit into? And then the straps hold it in place? Might be the way to go.

What keeps me right now from just doing it is that I just spent about $500 between the new tank, sump, straps, level sender, and welding costs. But I;m still considering it.
 

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72Orange said:
Funny you should suggest that. I was just looking at the Summit 16 gallon Pro Street Fuel Cell. That's what you have? How does it mount? Cut a hole in the trunk floor for the sump area to fit into? And then the straps hold it in place? Might be the way to go.

What keeps me right now from just doing it is that I just spent about $500 between the new tank, sump, straps, level sender, and welding costs. But I;m still considering it.
Yes, I've got the Summit 16 gallon fuel cell w/ sending unit. I made mounts to raise the fuel cell up so the sump doesn't stick through the floor. If you've got a plastic sump sticking through the floor, IHRA says you need to box it in with metal.

There should be a pic here:
http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36795
 

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Discussion Starter #9
DriveWFO said:
Yes, I've got the Summit 16 gallon fuel cell w/ sending unit. I made mounts to raise the fuel cell up so the sump doesn't stick through the floor. If you've got a plastic sump sticking through the floor, IHRA says you need to box it in with metal.

There should be a pic here:
http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36795
Thanks Dave. Is there any dissadvantage to going with one of these?

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294839036+4294920243+400304+115&autoview=sku
 

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Geez, this thread reads like it was my story.

I had a local shop that refurbishes and repairs gas tanks (that's all they do) weld a sump on my stock tank. The guy makes his own sump. I first wanted a -10AN fitting, let him talk me into a 1/2 NPT, he was a week later than promised, got it home, seen he welded a 3/8 NPT fitting. Took it back (another week) and all he did was weld the 1/2 over the 3/8 fiting. I'm like WTF, but I needed the tank, figured he could fix it right in the fall. Finally got everything in and I got a leak where he welded one fitting to another. Like you, I had to drain about 7 gallons of gas. I was beside myself, then I was thinking I was going to beat this guy up side the head with this tank. Another day at the track missed, had to race my daily driver->slow.

I picked up something similar to JB weld today, "steelstick", It is all in one, pasted it around my fitting and it sealed! It dries rock hard and you can sand it or whatever. Hopefully this will hold me over until the fall when I can pull the tank again.

You may want to try this->steelstick. I got it at Walmart. It may buy you time until you can get it fixed right. good luck!
 

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Check with Dave (DriveWFO), I seen how he has his cell mounted yesterday at the track, I may elect to copy what he has. It is a nice way to mount the cell without having to cut a hole for the sump. See if Dave can send you over a couple pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow Ironman, that story sucks. Your shop may be as big of boneheads as mine. :)

Good idea about Dave's mounting brackets. I wonder if he would mind posting some close up pics of the install, or maybe just e-mail them to me at [email protected]
 

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Dude,

That totally sux. have a 16 gal fuel cell w/sender for stock gauge from Summit. I made a mount that keep the sump in the trunk.




If you want some more pics let me know. It's real cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DrDenny's 69 Rat said:
If you want some more pics let me know. It's real cool.
That looks great. Can you send some pics of the brackets. I'm really considering doing this and scrapping the stock tank, and I'm hoping the brackets will be something I can come up with without having to depend on anyone to weld or fabricate for me (since I obiously have no one I can depend on). Is that your pump on the passenger side of the tank? I think I'd keep mine on the passenger side frame rail to try to reduce noise a little.

Also, from the pics I've seen you guys have put the tank as far forward and up the hump as possible, does that seem to be the case?

Thanks for the help
 

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I made my brackets out of 1-1/2" angle iron. Very easy to do if you are just learning to weld. The trunk pan on the 73/74s are a little more tricky for fabing brackets to give you a level tank. I raised the front of my cell up a hair, just to tilt it a little towards the sump.

Found a pic of my brackets:
 

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Ok, here are a few of pics. I went as far forward as possible to keep as much weight over the axle as possible. the hieght was to accomidate the sump, but mostly to keep the back of the cell from touching the pan. The bracket is probably a little over kill, but oh well. The orange do dad is the filter, that also played a part in the height as I wanted to keep it in line with the outlet for the sump. and the pump is just fore of the filter. Bothe the filter and pump bracketry are welded to the cell bracket. If I were you spend a few hundred on a little 110V mig welder, it will save you a ton of money in the long run.





 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the pics guys. Those brackets are a lot more elaborate than I though they were. I figured they bolted right to the sloped floor towards the front and were just lifted a couple inches towards the rear. They look great though!

But I have to try to make this tank work. Like I said before, I've got around $500 in this new tank that will be unrecoverable. Plus, I like having the trunk space for lawn chairs, a spare tire, and stuff like that. So I'm dropping it back off at the radiator shop this morning.

Wish me luck!
 
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