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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A couple of things:

1) Does it look like this is assembled correctly (except the e-brake stuff, which I still have to order)?



2) Is there something strange about the outboard end of the axle? This doesn't look like what I think it should look like...

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks like it needs an oil/dust seal.
Yes, I removed the seal that was on the end of the axle. The part that looks strange to me is the end of the tube - it's got a "sleeve" protruding past the end of the tube about 1/8". I can't remember my Chevelle looking like that.
 

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Is that the outside of the bearing race? like the bearing isn't all the way home?or is the bearing inside the sleeve? Maybe some kinda weird repair?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've been doing a little research. I found this nugget on Autozone, but it unfortunately doesn't have a photo.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...e=11200167&itemId=prod10858&parentId=cat10001

I wonder if this is one of these repair kits? The thing is, my axles don't look to be damaged at all, so I don't see the value of a previous owner installing these.

Autozone says they stock the kit, maybe I'll take a look at one.
 

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It looks like your original bearings and seal may have been replace with an "axle saver" bearing seal combo. They are designed to move the bearings and seals outward a little, giving your bearing new axle surface to ride on. You might be able to check it fairly easily by examing where your roller bearings are riding on the axle shaft. If you have excessive wear on the shaft inboard of where the rollers are currently riding, someone probably changed to the axle savers at some point. The axle saver bearing/seal combos I'm familiar with are not serviceable. They are replaced as a unit. If your axles are worn at both locations, it would be time to replace your axles and go back to the stock bearing and seal.

MTNNOVA
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
It looks like your original bearings and seal may have been replace with an "axle saver" bearing seal combo. They are designed to move the bearings and seals outward a little, giving your bearing new axle surface to ride on. You might be able to check it fairly easily by examing where your roller bearings are riding on the axle shaft. If you have excessive wear on the shaft inboard of where the rollers are currently riding, someone probably changed to the axle savers at some point. The axle saver bearing/seal combos I'm familiar with are not serviceable. They are replaced as a unit. If your axles are worn at both locations, it would be time to replace your axles and go back to the stock bearing and seal.
I tend to agree with you - looks like a repair kit, like this one I found on Napa's website. It even has the plastic roller cage.



The thing that was throwing me is the fact that the axle shafts look relatively wear-free. Follow up question - anyone have any idea as to how to remove this thing!?! :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good detective work Tim. What are you going to do with it removed ?
A heckuva question...

I guess use the stock bearing races with new axles. I'll have to inspect the races if/when I can get that repair cartridge out.
 

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On the brake job itself. Looking good, just a little advise.
The top of the blue spring where it connects to the adjuster. The top hook of the spring has a bend about 80 degree angle. I would take some pliers and squeeze it to 70-60 degree angle. Just to be sure it stays there.

Not enough detail to be sure on the purple clip where it connects to the adjuster plate. But something looks a little off, purple clip not quite in all the way. See the following, (its the other side, but similar)


On the adjuster itself, it should expand when the adjuster turns it going down. They are different thread direction left vs. right side. Always double check it is the correct one. Can't tell from a picture. Usually you adjust by hand to be near the drum size before final assembly of the drum.

I was in a shop when a Pro Street car drove in. He could hardly get it to stop. Nothing tires up front, big tires in back caused most of the braking. When they pulled the drums they couldn't find a problem. I noticed the adjusters where all the way in and suggested they check which direction caused them to expand. They were backwards. He had taken it in twice and they had adjusted them, but with the adjusters on the wrong side, after a few days they unadjusted to almost no brakes.
 

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Yes it's a repair bearing you have to replace the whole bearing since they do not sell just a seal for it. Also since it had this bearing check the axles for wear before switching back to the original style bearing & seal.

Miles
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Can't see you wheel cylinder plungers, are they in?

T,
Nope, I threw my old ones out accidentally :mad: I'm looking for some new ones, haven't been able to source them yet.

On the brake job itself. Looking good, just a little advise.
The top of the blue spring where it connects to the adjuster. The top hook of the spring has a bend about 80 degree angle. I would take some pliers and squeeze it to 70-60 degree angle. Just to be sure it stays there.

Not enough detail to be sure on the purple clip where it connects to the adjuster plate. But something looks a little off, purple clip not quite in all the way. See the following, (its the other side, but similar)
Not sure to what you are referring (purple clip?). I'm printing out your photo to compare to mine.
 

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What you have is a offset replacement bearing. This allows the bearing to ride on a new area on the axle. (The key is the piece you see sticking out)

You will need a jaw type slide hammer. You have the jaws facing outboard and expand them behind the bearing cup.
one from the back side. Sliding the hammer to remove the unit.

The stock bearing is a R1563TAV & 13992 seal (C-R numbers)
The repair kit number is MPR1563TAV (Seal is built into the bearing)
Al

The kit is a sealed unit, seems you unit has come apart.

Note: Do you plane on running a emergency brake? If so you need the emergency brake bar between the shoes.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You need the axle seal or gear oil will leak into your brakes :yes:.
Absolutely! When I took the drums off, they were a greasy mess. :eek: I figured, time for new seals. I got the ol' seal puller out, and the end came right off (I guess this was the end of the seal pack). That's when I noticed it looked different than what I'd seen in the past.

Note: Do you plan on running a emergency brake? If so you need the emergency brake bar between the shoes.

Al
I'm currently missing the e-brake levers and brake bar. I'll get these from one of the repop houses.

To All - Thanks a bunch! The photos and explanations, as always, have been tremendous.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You will need a jaw type slide hammer. You have the jaws facing outboard and expand them behind the bearing cup.
one from the back side. Sliding the hammer to remove the unit.

The stock bearing is a R1563TAV & 13992 seal (C-R numbers)
The repair kit number is MPR1563TAV (Seal is built into the bearing)
Al
The slide hammer tip worked like a charm, thanks for the heads up Al.

After removing the repair kit, I'm now left with the axle housing - apparently without a bearing race. Does anybody know is this is a true statement? If so, do new bearings come with races?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After removing the repair kit, I'm now left with the axle housing - apparently without a bearing race. Does anybody know is this is a true statement? If so, do new bearings come with races?
After buying the bearings today, I see that they are self-contained (outer race and cage, and the rollers ride directly on the axle).

I got all the parts in and buttoned up, thanks to everyone for the help.
 
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