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There are dissolvers like Naval Jelly.

Media blasting works best to remove it.

Acid dips to destroy it.

Encapsulators to cover and control additional erosion.

All have their Pro's and Con's.

What areas are you doing?
 

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A genereous mixture of salt and water is very good for rust. Or just living in Minnesota will help it alot.

As for getting rid of it, a shear and a sandblaster will take care of most of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have some front inner fenders that has some rust on them. Its not really that bad but I wasnt sure if it would cause problems in the future so I started sanding.
 

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Tough areas to sand since they are not flat. :(

Excellent candidates for acid tank stripping though! :)

Do you have access to a cup style wire brush attached to a hand held grinder?
That'll knock it down.
 

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I have not tried it yet but Eastwood has a new product that you might try; it is a two part rust remover/converter. If you try it, let us know of the results. I have used "Right Stuff" with some success; it is a ospho type (green) solution that works good on mild rust and readies the part for paint. You might find it at Advance; if not, Dupont makes a similar product.,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I need to get these put on soon so I'm going to have to leave what rust is left on there. Is this going to cause problems for me or ruin the fenders? And do you happen to know how much acid tank stripping costs and where to get it done?
 

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Some one had some pieces dipped on this board at not too bad pricing.

Where? Yank out your local yellow pages and look under paint removal, furniture refinishing, or call the local Auto Body shop. ;)

If you leave the rust and seal it with paint it will probably stay dormant for a while. Seal it with a rust encapsulating paint like POR15, probably for years (MAYBE decades, don't know). Remove it and paint it...long time gone. :)
 

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I had mine dipped, they came out great. Something like $1.25 per pound for steel. Place I had them done is in Atlanta called Unpaint Corporation.

Clean any tar or undercoating off them first.
They will come back nice and shiney with a metal pickeling compound on them to prevent rust. You wash this off with warm soapy water.

All rust is disolved and will be gone. If it is really rusty the area will be pitted or maybe even look like cheese cloth.
 

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That is really insightful thanks for the post.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok heres a good question. Apparently there is a leak somewhere in the back by my trunk so water is leaking in and my trunk is completely rusted. Any ideas on this one guys?
 

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Take your back seat out and have a buddy wet the back of the car with garden hose while you look in the trunk with flashlight.It's pobably the rear window under moulding at the bottom corner(s).
 

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slcpunk73nova said:
Oh yeah I'm almost positive of that. I meant any ideas on what I should do with the trunk?
Sorry my miss read:(
 

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slcpunk73nova said:
Oh yeah I'm almost positive of that. I meant any ideas on what I should do with the trunk?
If the sheetmetal is rusted through, you'll have to patch or replace those areas.

If it's just surface rust/scale, you can clean that off using the electrolysis method in the link in my previous post. But instead of submerging the car in a tank of the electrolyte solution (that would be kinda hard) soak a sponge in the solution and place that on the rusty area of your trunk. Then place a flat piece of scrap steel on top of the sponge. Connect the negative clip of the battery charger to the car and the positive to the scrap steel on top of the sponge and turn it on. Let it alone for about 2 hours, then turn it off and remove the sponge. Wire brush the steel a little and wipe the area off with a paper towel. It should be clean and free of rust. If some rust remains, repeat the process.

Here's the link again. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
 

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Discussion Starter #18
NOVANUT77 said:
If the sheetmetal is rusted through, you'll have to patch or replace those areas.

If it's just surface rust/scale, you can clean that off using the electrolysis method in the link in my previous post. But instead of submerging the car in a tank of the electrolyte solution (that would be kinda hard) soak a sponge in the solution and place that on the rusty area of your trunk. Then place a flat piece of scrap steel on top of the sponge. Connect the negative clip of the battery charger to the car and the positive to the scrap steel on top of the sponge and turn it on. Let it alone for about 2 hours, then turn it off and remove the sponge. Wire brush the steel a little and wipe the area off with a paper towel. It should be clean and free of rust. If some rust remains, repeat the process.

Here's the link again. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
I guess the only problem I'll run into is on the sides, etc.. where I cant just rest a sponge. I'm pretty sure its all just surface rust, I dont see any holes or rusted through areas.
 

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slcpunk73nova said:
I guess the only problem I'll run into is on the sides, etc.. where I cant just rest a sponge.
Use duct tape over the top of the piece of scrap steel and onto the part being cleaned. I've done it that way myself on vertical surfaces. You may have to pour a little more solution on the sponge once in a while though. It tends to run out of the sponge more quickly when taped on.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
NOVANUT77 said:
Use duct tape over the top of the piece of scrap steel and onto the part being cleaned. I've done it that way myself on vertical surfaces. You may have to pour a little more solution on the sponge once in a while though. It tends to run out of the sponge more quickly when taped on.
Right on. Sounds good man, I'll definately have to try this.
 
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