Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys a lot of you know today was they day I took my 74 nova out after the engine build and front 70 conversion.. Brought my toolbox, went a washed it and people love it.. Drove great!!! BUT 1) first thing that happens was I took old tach wires and just spliced them into new 5"tach. It after a few starts today stopped working?? Idk why?? Other one worked fine and I used its wires??. Then my hei is to toggle with led, and led toggle to battery.(flip ignition toggle to power hei before turn key to start) Everything worked fine after she warmed up and ran great so I picked up my woman went to cruise and I'm in drive and it DIES, so I pull in taco time , lift off hood, I trouble shoot,!!!!! Here's what it does

--- died while driving
--- all lights work
--- turns over perfect like batterey is great and hei is just not flipped on
--- If I pump I can smell gas
--- 5" new tach not working but shift light comes on dim then brighter when key turned to on but tach doesn't work any more
Led light on toggle switch kinda flickers? (maybe, might be cuz I messed with it)
--- turns over fine just won't start.. Always start right away always!!!

It got to dark to do anymore tonight so I left it on side I road :-/

Here is what I know
-- getting fuel
-- getting juice from batt

My conclusion in the 30 minuites before dark after checking all connections from toggle to hei and batt to toggle are good..
I think I'm just not getting spark and thats why it died and won't start.. It's a eBay 65k hei ?.. Do toggles burn up??? I cut a couple purple wires i while back, could they have come apart and make it not start?? Could I have blown a fuse? If so which one, where?? Alternator would of made batterey dead right??.. I was stumped in the dark and think its just not getting spark.. I'm sure I'll figure it tommorow guys, but any ideas or questions would help.. I'm really good with cars and embarresed that I'm not the best with electrical.. I recently made a radio delete panel out of thin steal plate, could my toggles be hurt this way?? Idk please help guys thanks


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
For sure that's what I think also... The car isn't in front of my but i was reading the bible in my chair(jegs on the toilet) and I thought wait, first tach goes out, and what's it connect to? HEI, and I'm not getting spark ?? Huh just a thought.. Or it could be the flux capacitor?


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,031 Posts
flux capacitors NEVER go bad - so you can eliminate that:D I'd have someone crank the motor over while I check for spark at the a plug wire. If no spark, then with the key and toggle in the "on" position. check the "batt" terminal on the HEI for 12v with a voltmeter. You need 12v here for the HEI and tach to operate. How are you feeding the HEI? Is your harness oem? Some after-market harnesses have a fuse for the coil. The purple/white wires that you spliced and connected to the push-button start are operating fine if your starter turns over when ignition is applied, but you can also check that terminal on the solenoid for 12v as well - while cranking the engine over. If you have 12v present at all these terminals, then start looking at the ground circuit....bummed to hear your maiden voyage turned out bad:(

Frank
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks fast65 happy about the flux cuz I have plenty of plutonium... So that's good.. And I didn't splice those wires to the push button yet, I cut them before then splice them back together.. My HEI right now is on a Led toggle, 3 prong (for led) one to ground(led tip) then one straight to positive side of batterey, then other prong on toggle straight to batt+ on hei using pigtails.. No fuses or anything.. So on a normal day I can use key to turn over car all day and won't start until I flip up toggle to hei. When it died and I lost power steering and all, I parked shut all off, then flipped up toggle and turned key like always ( always imediatley starts) and it just cranks and cranks.. Getting fuel etc.. Sounds just like I didn't flip switch. It is very possible that one of the purple wires came loose but would it even crank??? And I will definitely use volt meter.. Anything to look for under cap?? Coil ground or anything?? Thanks for you help. I really need to get back to 1985 the doc is pissed


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Try Running 12 Volts Straight to Your HEI!

Suggestion: Pull the 12 volt connection wire from your HEI now turn your key on and with your toggle switch on see if you get juice from that wire, either with a voltage tester or just do it old school and see if it has juice. If it does you know you are getting 12 volts to your HEI. Important to do this because if your not getting 12 volts to your ignition you will not fire. I believe you are not getting 12 volts to your ignition/HEI You can always pull a plug wire and check from there while someone turns it over but this does not tell you if you are getting 12 Volts to your ignition or not it just tells you you are not getting spark. If you are getting 12 volts to your HEI and still cannot get it to fire I would look into the HEI module first and then coil. Try what I said to see if you are getting 12 volts to your HEI/ignition first and if not check your fuse running this wire, could of blown. If no fuse try running another 12 V wire that is hot when your ignition and toggle is on and run it to your HEI and you should fire up and burn rubber. Let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,665 Posts
A few random thoughts…

Unprotected circuits equal burned up cars. I almost lost mine when I was 18 years old and have never forgotten it. Please fuse your ignition circuit.

An unpowered test light will perform most basic electrical tests and is the tool I reach for first. If you are not familiar with one it looks like an ice pick with a light bulb, length of wire and an alligator clip.

Unplug the hot wire at your HEI cap. Put the ice pick in the wire connector and clip the wire to a known good ground. Flip on your toggle switch and see if the test light illuminates. If it does, crank the engine and see if stays illuminated while cranking. If it does, check for spark at a plug wire.

If I am not mistaken the purple and purple with white stripe wires go to and from the neutral safety switch. If you have an open circuit the engine will not crank.

When you combine the words E-Bay and HEI I become concerned. HEI modules are a little finicky to start with and when you go Chinese you get what you get.

It’s not uncommon during an engine install to bump the distributor cap out of alignment so the cap sort of rocks over to one side just enough for the rotor to hit a terminal and break the rotor. Just a thought.

Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
A few random thoughts…

Unprotected circuits equal burned up cars. I almost lost mine when I was 18 years old and have never forgotten it. Please fuse your ignition circuit.

An unpowered test light will perform most basic electrical tests and is the tool I reach for first. If you are not familiar with one it looks like an ice pick with a light bulb, length of wire and an alligator clip.

Unplug the hot wire at your HEI cap. Put the ice pick in the wire connector and clip the wire to a known good ground. Flip on your toggle switch and see if the test light illuminates. If it does, crank the engine and see if stays illuminated while cranking. If it does, check for spark at a plug wire.

If I am not mistaken the purple and purple with white stripe wires go to and from the neutral safety switch. If you have an open circuit the engine will not crank.

When you combine the words E-Bay and HEI I become concerned. HEI modules are a little finicky to start with and when you go Chinese you get what you get.

It’s not uncommon during an engine install to bump the distributor cap out of alignment so the cap sort of rocks over to one side just enough for the rotor to hit a terminal and break the rotor. Just a thought.

Steve
Got to agree with the Ebay/HEI I looked at them for around $65.00 bucks, not thanks. I went with a Summit HEI upgrade kit with a 50,000 volt coil. Seems to work fine. I agree run your ignition 12 volt off a fuse. Anyhow to me I would almost bet he is not getting 12 V to his ignition. If he is it has to be either the module or coil. Module first and then coil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Hey thanks guys.. I would of definitely done this stuff last night but was super dark. To be honest I got my tabs yesterday finally and so I kinda rushed through the last 17steps and turned em into 4 steps lol.. When you said test for 12volts the old school way you meant crank it over and stick the wire to my tongue right? I'll do that right now... Lol jk.. Yeah I didn't have my meter with me but first thing I'll do guys is check that. And I was told to be sure of course that it was 12v running to hei and that batterey was easiest, in my case it was.. But that it WAS NOT to be fused?? Was this wrong? Should i put a fuse in the hei line? If so what size and where from battery to toggle or what? Thanks :) and After remembering what Iv done this is what Iv come up with that im sure on of them is the problem

1) tach stopped working because wire from tach to hei is grounding out(stopping tach and grounding hei sending volts back to batt, won't start)Plus I just cut the old tach wires and wired up new ones to them skipping steps today.

2) module not working

3) purple wires that I cut 5 months back then put back together came apart (very possible)

4)cheap chini hei hates American cars. Btw I know it's junk guys but had to try it (kinda hope it's any kind of broke so I can throw it)

5) was inline 6 before, now v8 and well the firewall wouldn't make room for the china guy, or any hei really so I gently messages it's a** back enough to clear. BUT LAST WEEK, when I took days adjusting harwood cowl hood perfectly I took cowl vent off because it stuck up a little from me and sledge hammer messages room for hei before. So I got it flat on top (might of inched it closer to hei, it's only 1/2 inch away anyhow) i lost a few HUNDRED pounds in my front end swap seriously 74 bumpers,shocks, boxes, so when i got some traction leaving Safeway It threw my back in my seat hard then 2 mins later.. Shut down!! Maybe I did smash it into my firewall.. Motor usually didn't flex backward but maybe?

6) I stayed up all night figuring it out and I'm crazy from no sleep and none of this is happening lol..

Sorry for the long message thanks everyone for caring, and can't wait to tell ya what it was :)
And this Is how close it is, just happen to have pic..






Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ok guys thanks for the help.. I sat all day, rewiring and making sure all was good, tach does not work at all red wire has constant power always, but the pigtail from hei I guess isn't workin. Also I'm getting definite power to hei with switch, the pigtail to hei is getting power!!! Took off air cleaner and watch fuel squirt in.. Def gettin air.. I figure it's getting power to it but tach isn't workin and it turns over all day without starting it must be module or coil.. Took it apart and nothin melted or dirty, so dropped of module to autozone.. So in a couple hours when there freekin chemist/rocket scientist returns to use the machine I'll find out.. And I'm having them test a new one too. Thanks guys you have really helped a kid.. Also any other ideas would greatly help, it's stuck in front of a real estate office and I'm broke at the moment to tow.. Also it a target :-(


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
And what's a non dangerous way to see if I'm getting spark outta my hei?? I know I'm getting power in there


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Well everyone you can rest tonight knowing that the module has been tested 10 times and proved that china... I mean proved that the module was a cheap pos... (it's never my fault) thanks guys.. Now I can ruin my very expensive zr rated tires tryin to look cool tonight jk


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I hear that.. There wasn't any really in there just a tad! So I have kmjperformance 65k hei .. I'm low on money tonight so I'm just gonna grab one from autozone for a week.. What matches with the 65k coil??? It's a 4 prong I know but can I get a cheap one for now?? Even thought the 65k is a cheap thing... Autozone has no clue


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Well guys i lifted off my hood,dodged traffic and put in the new module and now if I even look at my car like I want her to start she does.. Actually it runs a little better.. I adjusted air/fuel a little leaner at idle, opened cutouts into straight headers turned on halo lights and she is a torquey little bit**!!!


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top