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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm planning on getting these to replace my OEMs when I install my rack and Pinion kit. Helix Tubular Control arms

Anyone ever use these? I'm trying to keep my cost down.. I know there are others out there but, I can't justify spending close to $1,000 on control arms.

Thoughts?
 

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They appear to be cheap knock offs of DSE control arms. I would be a little leary of what materials are used and what fatigue testing has been done, because you get what you pay for. They might work fine though, but changing out parts of great importance like that becomes a safety issue. You don't want something like that to break when going done the highway. just my two cents. Heres a link I found about the ebay control arms. Hope this helps

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=141451
 

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I try and stay away from tubular control arms especially if they are cheap. My friend had a set on his S10 and he said they were real loose and they werent even that old. He said he wished he had the stock ones instead. He may have just gotten cheap ones.
 

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Thats the first I ever hard of that about tubular control arms.
Read more because I remember them being on his S10 and they were real loose after daily driving. Its just my direct experience with his S10. Like I said his may have been just a cheap knock off version
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Read more because I remember them being on his S10 and they were real loose after daily driving. Its just my direct experience with his S10. Like I said his may have been just a cheap knock off version
What the Helix or tubular control arms in general?
 

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He had upper arms and the bushings got real loose after a while. He complained it made some noise and he didnt like them. I have no experience with the Helix ones but might consider not going cheap thats all.

Most recommend just getting quality uppers since the lowers are just for looks.
 

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Check into actual changing the suspension geometry. Most tubular control arms just increase caster and do liitle to improve camber gain and bump steer. Mostly for looks. Id suggest SC&C with tall upper ball joints.
 

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I'm planning on getting these to replace my OEMs when I install my rack and Pinion kit. Helix Tubular Control arms

Anyone ever use these? I'm trying to keep my cost down.. I know there are others out there but, I can't justify spending close to $1,000 on control arms.

Thoughts?
You can buy the tubular arms through CPP for around $750, very, very nice product and great service too!
 

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Check into actual changing the suspension geometry. Most tubular control arms just increase caster and do liitle to improve camber gain and bump steer. Mostly for looks. Id suggest SC&C with tall upper ball joints.
Control arms cannot change camber gain. They simply connect the mounting points tot he spindles. Unless you change the upper mounting point or spindle height, there's no other way to change camber gain. They will allow you to add more caster.They also can't help with bump steer unless they change the whole design, then the steering arms and centerlink have to match.

The lower arms aren't just for looks, they're for strength. A good tubular lower control arm is much stronger than a stamped steel one.
 

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It looks like Helix is a newer part of the Hoffman Group. This is the company that owns the Autoloc, Zirgo, and many other parts manufacturers. I've never seen any of their products, but they have suspension components for a lot of cars. I'd personally rather go with someone like DSE because they only build parts for a few cars, and spend the time to do it right!
 

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Control arms cannot change camber gain. They simply connect the mounting points tot he spindles. Unless you change the upper mounting point or spindle height, there's no other way to change camber gain. They will allow you to add more caster.They also can't help with bump steer unless they change the whole design, then the steering arms and centerlink have to match.

The lower arms aren't just for looks, they're for strength. A good tubular lower control arm is much stronger than a stamped steel one.

The tall upper ball joint will. The SPC uppers are nice due to eliminating a big shim pack at a low ride height.
 

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They appear to be cheap knock offs of DSE control arms. I would be a little leary of what materials are used and what fatigue testing has been done, because you get what you pay for. They might work fine though, but changing out parts of great importance like that becomes a safety issue. You don't want something like that to break when going done the highway. just my two cents. Heres a link I found about the ebay control arms. Hope this helps

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=141451
Well that settles it, I read enough and seen enough. I was 1 week away of installing these same control arms,but they are going back. The risk's are way to great just to save a few bucks. I'll save $$$ on the paint job, interior pieces, exhaust,etc... but not on suspension parts.
 

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Control arms cannot change camber gain. They simply connect the mounting points tot he spindles. Unless you change the upper mounting point or spindle height, there's no other way to change camber gain. They will allow you to add more caster.They also can't help with bump steer unless they change the whole design, then the steering arms and centerlink have to match.

The lower arms aren't just for looks, they're for strength. A good tubular lower control arm is much stronger than a stamped steel one.


I was just relaying what I was told at the Lateral-g forums. Im going to weld in some steel rod on the outer flanges to reinforce mine so Im sure they will be plenty strong. The materials will cost some pocket change. And a welder will cost less than the new arms (mine already payed itself off).

This is from a pontiac board but you can get the idea.




I just know my 30 year old bushings and control arms werent all that loose. The control arms on my buddies S-10 failed badly fast. He said it wasnt even the bushings that failed but the collar around the bushing had expanded making them complete trash. Im sure good quality ones shouldnt do that though.

Taken from SPC.

Most aftermarket lower arms are simply tubular copies of stock arms. No change = no gains.
 

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Well i just found out i cant return those a-arms so i was wondering if anyone knows if i can use the stock cross shaft from the original a-arms on these tubular a-arms???? That seems to be the weak link where they can potentially break.
 
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