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Hey guys,

I just installed a pair of Lake Wood Traction Bars to my 73. I also replaced the entire front end suspension at the same time. Now, my best friends father came by and said that I was dead wrong for actually using U-Bolts on the front of the Traction bars. He claims that by using U-Bolts I'm putting far too much tension on the rear. Is this accurate? I mean why would their be holes for the U-Bolts if you're not suppossed to use them? Am I wrong for using them?

Anyways, after I did these 2 jobs on my car I took it for a lil test drive. My car drove terribly. To be more precise, my steering was so unresponsive I could hardly stay between the lines, and turns were a nightmare. I automatically assumed that this poor steering response was due to a much needed front end alignment...from replacing all the front end suspension (including Tie Rods of course). However, my friends father claimed that the alignment wasn't the answer, and that the unresponsive steering was a direct result of using the U-Bolts on the Traction Bars.

What do you guys think? I'm still guessing that it's just a Front End Alignment issue. Any help with this would be much appreciated. Thanks- Mike
 

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What? What does u bolts have to do with steering? He's talking bout the u bolts over the axle tubes right? or did you tighten the u bolts around the leafs towards the front? that would bind up the spring. Those are only for a saftey catch and maybe a little tuning if your snubber is short. As for alignment get out a tape measure and measure across the middle of the front tires then the back of the front tires, should be 1/8" in in he front center to center of the front tires. Also the snubber needs to be centered with the spring eye other wise they are too short and you need to extent them with a piece of angle iron.
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Simple test would be unbolt the traction bars and take it for a spin. I suspect you will feel no difference.
 

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You need a wheel alignment, not just toe in but caster and camber also.
You could have also overtightened the bolts for the suspension pivot bushings and are creating a bind.
Sounds like you have two people not to take car advice from.
 

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Hey guys,

I just installed a pair of Lake Wood Traction Bars to my 73. I also replaced the entire front end suspension at the same time. Now, my best friends father came by and said that I was dead wrong for actually using U-Bolts on the front of the Traction bars. He claims that by using U-Bolts I'm putting far too much tension on the rear. Is this accurate? I mean why would their be holes for the U-Bolts if you're not suppossed to use them? Am I wrong for using them?

Anyways, after I did these 2 jobs on my car I took it for a lil test drive. My car drove terribly. To be more precise, my steering was so unresponsive I could hardly stay between the lines, and turns were a nightmare. I automatically assumed that this poor steering response was due to a much needed front end alignment...from replacing all the front end suspension (including Tie Rods of course). However, my friends father claimed that the alignment wasn't the answer, and that the unresponsive steering was a direct result of using the U-Bolts on the Traction Bars.

What do you guys think? I'm still guessing that it's just a Front End Alignment issue. Any help with this would be much appreciated. Thanks- Mike
OK! first alignment on steering then do your test again.


Second,
The front u-bolt strap on the traction bars is more a safety issue.

The U-bolt is to keep the traction bar close to the spring.
As the pinion angle changes under stooping or hard coasting the pinion angle comes down pointing the traction bar down to the ground! No need to tell what can happen.

Also clamping the spring has a adjustment of sorts.
Do not clamp all the way down. It does preload the springs and can effect the car pulling in one direction, left or right. There is a adjustment. Read the instructions in the link.

http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/pdf/21150.PDF

And not to be a "A" hole, but your "FRIEND" is trying to get you or someone else hurt.
 

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Are you talking about the J-bolt style traction bars that loop the bolt over the axle housing or the square-u bolt style the has a clamp over the leaf spring between the front spring eye and the housing?

The basic idea when tuning the airgap between the snubber and spring is the larger the gap the harder the hit will be on the rear suspension, less or no gap will provide a softer hit and less traction. We run a 1/2" gap on my Son's car on the street and it works well! The bars will have no affect on the steering- get a good alignment done and have the dial in as much positive caster as possible for high speed stability. Tell your friend's father he doesn't know what he's talking about.
 
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