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OK some friends and I are having a discussion on the proper way to set an anti roll bar on a full chassis drag car. To start with the car is setting on a level surface, drivers weight is in it, tires are set, full of gas and all the routine stuff you do to set a chassis up and the chassis is neutral with zero preload. This car will need 2 flats to lenghten the bar in order to go straight, that's just how this car is. There are two thoughts on this setting of the anti roll. One is, disconnect one arm of the anti roll, set the preload on the suspension, then set the anti roll neutral with the car at this point. The other is, set the anti roll so the rear end is parallel to the frame side to side then set the preload on the bars. If you have a full chassis drag car, how do you set yours? RM
 

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I set them up neutral after the rest of the car is set up and while loaded with fuels and driver, etc. ready to race. Now on something that has no adjustment like a stock suspension car I found you can sneak a little adjustment here or there to make the car work till you can start replacing components for adjustable ones.
 

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NIIN20, Thanks for the reply. So you have the car level then set the preload which unlevels the car to some point and then neutralize the anti roll? That is also how my friends do it. I was told the purpose of the anti roll is to help maintain the chassis parallel to the rear end so I set it with the car level before I set the preload. I was actually taught that the correct way to set them on a properly built car is to allow the rear end to hang on the shocks and set it neutral so it will maintain parallel through the entire travel of the rear end. My cars have all worked well and they all go straight as an arrow and never leave uneven either. My friends cars also do well which is what provoked the conversation. Thanks for the reply. RM
 

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Real McCoy said:
NIIN20, Thanks for the reply. So you have the car level then set the preload which unlevels the car to some point and then neutralize the anti roll? That is also how my friends do it. I was told the purpose of the anti roll is to help maintain the chassis parallel to the rear end so I set it with the car level before I set the preload. I was actually taught that the correct way to set them on a properly built car is to allow the rear end to hang on the shocks and set it neutral so it will maintain parallel through the entire travel of the rear end. My cars have all worked well and they all go straight as an arrow and never leave uneven either. My friends cars also do well which is what provoked the conversation. Thanks for the reply. RM
I always set the rear suspension up (hopefully no preload in anything if all the weigths are right). Then the last thing I do is hook up the link in the anti-roll bar, neutraling it. Realistically you do want any preload(binding) in the rear suspension. You need to find other ways(weights/shocks) to get the car to leave. Preload trys and steer a car around on the big end and it also flips when you let off the throttle. The anti-roll bar should act a a device to maintain the settings you have applied to the rear suspension and a high horsepower car will try and alter these settings if not built properly. In a perfect world I believe a car could be built well enough that it would not need and anti-roll bar. I'm no expert by any means though, but I do have a rear suspension that I designed that I hope will alleviate the need for an anti-roll bar. Hopefully by late Summer I will have the car done and do some testing before I really try and market it if it works as well I figure.
I wouldnt set the anti-roll bar with the rearend hanging. I would set it with the rearend in its natural position since it shouldnt change more than a couple of inches or less from that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks again for the reply. Best of luck with your car as well. Stay safe, RM
 

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RM, I hate to High jack your thread but Did you buy your anti roll device or did you make your own. If you made your own what wall tubing and how did you go about it. I have a Buick Regal with a bb in it and I want to install one but don't know which way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I made my own for the past 2 cars. I used .120 wall 1 inch tubing and made the arms too but these are in a chassis car and are only 24 inches wide. I used 3/16 plate for the arms and they are welded to the tube. I bought a couple kits before and the early kits were not very good. The newer kits are much better. They use splined arms and real bearings instead of bushings. If you don't have access to some decent fab equipment I'd suggest looking at the different kits offered and pick a decent one and go with it. The Regal will need a wider design if it's stock suspensioned but they do help reduce body roll. RM
 
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