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Discussion Starter #25
Interesting picture of the floor and door seams on a 56 4dr hardtop, this car has been sitting outside without a windshield for the last 10 years or so. I am tempted from time to time for a Tri-5 project, this just happens to be one close to home. Notice the floor is completely gone, but the doorjam and other seams are remarkably solid. Evidently the older cars have quite a bit of LEAD in the paint, especially red and yellow. Keep in mind, sanding dust from any older car probably does contain lead, and this can be very dangerous for any small children.
C6F2C156-4FC7-4488-BD81-6920F315F5DC.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #26
This is a pic of my replacement door. It had a BC/CC finish, along with an extremely thick coat of some kind of primer. Someone merely coated the surface as thick as they could, and proceeded to carve a Nova door out of it. The paint cracked on the top, and it had to be stripped. The lite green is the original color. E9F83778-5833-4449-8700-D3B7EEF047DE.jpeg 0FBBDC1F-51DB-483B-95A1-2226E7245C90.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #27
It takes a lot of junk to paint?! I like the Nason brand from ORileys, this is DuPont’s budget line. And I’ve had to luck with generic supplies, most of these came from Wholesale Paint in Springfield Mo.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Pushed it out from the underneath side while tapping lightly lightly on the ridge on the front, came out out easily. A good body man could have done this without cracking 099119BC-1E4A-4D58-A4F7-386A90AD4B3A.jpeg the paint, but I had a few small marks.
 

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When I was doing my 65 I bought a stud gun. It was nice to be able to pull metal without drilling holes. I have watched a good friend of mine with a hammer and dolly. Good body men can do wonders with hammers, dolly's, two by fours and such. I'm learning but just haven't done it enough. Doing a 1980 CJ5 jeep now. Finished with the sheet metal and body work on everything except the very rear of the tub.
 

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Pushed it out from the underneath side while tapping lightly lightly on the ridge on the front, came out out easily. A good body man could have done this without cracking View attachment 405034 the paint, but I had a few small marks.
I had a roof that was oil canning so I took a small jack, a 2x4 with foam on the end and gave a slight pressure up while pounding on top of the creases with a hammer till the roof pop back up and was solid again. The creases went around the exterior of the roof like somebody stood on the roof in the middle. I think kids were climbing on it before I bought it.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
My original hood had something heavy set in the center of it. I sat it flat on a tire and pushed the worst of it out, but it still doesn’t have a nice gradual curve like my spare hood. I’m going to try a little more work on it later ( and run my spare for now), but I’m thinking it will require some kind of bracing from the bottom. The inner structure was bent down a little and it won’t hold its shape correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The pic of the inside, lower front fender shows what most of us are up against. The actual exterior sheetmetal you can see is easy, the worst damage is internal. Roof and rear quarter bracing on these cars wasn’t painted well ( or at all), and these structures are very difficult to reach. I’m trying to get phosphoric acid into the enclosed areas on my car, best as possible. The only other option is complete disassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
This is the factory orange on my original hood, 48 years old. Nothing you put on there will hold up anywhere near that long. The only issue on these cars is rust, nothing else is as important. It’s easy to respray another topcoat, anybody can easily do that, provided the sub-surface is stable.
The multiple year rebuilds a lot of guys get involved in is simply trying to reach the rust on the underlying structures. Window channels, floor assemblies, roof assemblies and quarter panel replacements, these are major jobs if you do it right. My car is still fairly solid, I’m not going to blow it apart until it’s necessary. Till that day comes, I’m going to drown it in phosphoric acid, and coat all the seams with Rusty metal primer.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
My brother and I repainted probably a dozen of these older cars over a year or two, and resold them for a little profit. Of course, that was 30 years ago. The vehicles were generally still on their factory paint with rust behind the rear tires. I haven’t redone an older car, except 2 first- gen Camaros, since. I’ve repaired a dozen later model rebuilders along the way, but these cars have no rust, just collision damage. And at our car dealership, I must have touched up the paint on 50 cars. But again, no rust. It’s easy to see what should be done, drill out every spot weld on the car and repair every speck of rust on the interior and external panels. I can’t imagine putting that kind of time in a average second gen Nova, like mine.
 

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My brother and I repainted probably a dozen of these older cars over a year or two, and resold them for a little profit. Of course, that was 30 years ago. The vehicles were generally still on their factory paint with rust behind the rear tires. I haven’t redone an older car, except 2 first- gen Camaros, since. I’ve repaired a dozen later model rebuilders along the way, but these cars have no rust, just collision damage. And at our car dealership, I must have touched up the paint on 50 cars. But again, no rust. It’s easy to see what should be done, drill out every spot weld on the car and repair every speck of rust on the interior and external panels. I can’t imagine putting that kind of time in a average second gen Nova, like mine.
I do it for the love of the car and the satisfaction that everything was done right to the best of my ability.
 
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