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Just use "Easy Off" spray on oven cleaner on the trim...as far as I know it WILL remove the anodizing with very little effort on your part.;) :)
 

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No_Nova_Yet said:
Will the oven cleaner eat at the aluminum? How long do you leave it on?I've also read that drano works is that true?
well I dont know about drano but I have seen oven cleaner take the anodizing off a set of anodized valve covers...of course they were steel...not sure what it would do to the aluminum if anything...possibly someone else might have info on that.:)
 

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No_Nova_Yet said:
Will the oven cleaner eat at the aluminum? How long do you leave it on?I've also read that drano works is that true?
Oven cleaner and Drano suck.You have to use straight sodium hydroxide (lye) in hot water.Shouldn't take more than 5 min (tops)Make sure you remove all paint,grease ect off part first.What parts are you trying to de-anodize?
 

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Easy off

No Nova Yet, I have personally used Easy off oven cleaner on some of my parts including headlight,tail light bezels and it worked fine for me.I put a good coat on the and let them set for 20-30 minutes and hit them with a Scotch-brite pad.You might have to do it several times,but it will remove the finish.Then they are ready for polishing.Of course any dings and dents will have to be removed.first.
 

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glucas Iam trying to take it off a NOS 66 hoodbar. Can you get lye at Lowes? Should I use it on a Hoodbar? Thanks,Cory
 

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66nogo2 said:
glucas Iam trying to take it off a NOS 66 hoodbar. Can you get lye at Lowes? Should I use it on a Hoodbar? Thanks,Cory
Lowes/Home Depot might have it but I bet an actual hardware store would have it..:)
 

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You'll also need a metal tank to lay your grille in for de-anodizing.I have several sizes i use. A 6'x2',3'x3',7'x18" for long trim.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
glucas, I'll test it out on a junker piece before attacking the good parts. I have a buffing wheel and have polished aluminum before I'm just unsure of the stripping part. What's the main thing I should be worried about? Do people screw this up a lot?:eek:
 

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Just make sure you don't leave your part in the chemical for too long.You'll see it activate in about about a minute.Let it sit in there until your part turns a light brownish color.Remove and scrub off with a steel wool pad and rince off.If your grille is somewhat pitted you'll have to start with a 80 grit flap wheel and work down.If you don't use a sisal wheel with black cake rouge for your prep before final polish your wasting your time.It takes me 4 hrs to do a grille.Good luck.Gotta go make a buck.
 

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polish

i found a polish at lowes home improvement sunday and bought a buffing pad from there and i be dog it works great
the only thing i had to use a brillo pad to knock off the overspray
 

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scars reminde me of the past thats real

No_Nova_Yet said:
glucas, I'll test it out on a junker piece before attacking the good parts. I have a buffing wheel and have polished aluminum before I'm just unsure of the stripping part. What's the main thing I should be worried about? Do people screw this up a lot?:eek:
I can't help you fix yourself but,at least i can say i tried.I'm sorry i gotta move on with my own liiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiife!
 

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trim polishing

No Nova Yet Here is a set of bezels that i stripped and polished at home.Not a professional job, but look good from a few feet away.
 
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