[Red Cricket]

G morning all, Just looking for my best option on buying an alternator for my 63. Plan on re-wiring with with new harness. Not all are the same. What should one look for when buying a new unit. Thanks for your feedback. any suggestions for a good bracket for the passenger side. Just mocking up before dropping in the new motor. Tks again

 

[drm101]

You can do a newer vehicle stock brkt set up. Should be cheap and easy to find. Like from a 1970's truck or car.

 

[drm101]

As far as the alternator goes, it really depends on your current requirements. AC, radio, heater, rear defog and other options will require a 100 amp or larger alternator. No options or loads and you can just run a 35 amp alternator and it will get you better mileage, and performance.

 

[Alf]

You might want to look at the CS style of GM alternators.
They are a newer evolution, a bit smaller than the older Si style and have the same mounting points, come in a variety of amperages, are clockable, and available as "one wire".
Summit has a nice rebuilt for about $60

 

[Mike Goble]

Get a CS-130 - internally regulated, 105 amps, more current at lower rpm, inexpensive and easily adaptable.

 

[64IIGolfLover]

Get a CS-130 - internally regulated, 105 amps, more current at lower rpm, inexpensive and easily adaptable.

This is what I did.

 

[Red Cricket]

I would like to mount alternator on the passenger side at the top or about 10 o clock... Most brackets seem to use intake bolts but i am running vortec heads. Cant seem to find a "simple" bracket to fit a short water pump with vortec heads. Im running a simple "V" belt. Thanks again To All the experts..

 

[Custom Jim]

Your best option for an alternator is do some calculations as to what it needs to supply and how the engine habits will be.

If your electrical system draws let's say 100A and you have a 105A or larger alternator, then all should be good BUT do not expect a 105A alternator to keep up with a 150A draw as the difference will come off of the battery and then when the battery cannot supply the difference, the voltage goes down and things will spin slower, be less bright, and so on. Keep in mind too that if the most draw you have is around 60A, then putting in a 105A will be fine and the regulator will tell the alternator what it needs to put out and this would be 60A and then later if additional things are put on, the alternator might not have to be upgraded.

On alternators, they have an output curve and while harder to find, the hotter they are the less they can put out. The output curve is in relationship to how fast the alternator is spinning and depending on pulley ratio's sometimes pulleys can be changed for different operating characteristics.

Also when installing the alternator, run the proper sized cable for the amperage and the length of the cable and ideally run copper wire and not any copper clad aluminum type of wire. CCA wire to me would be a poor choice.

Jim

 

[J Mark]

Can I ask if you have a high amperage alternator, any load or horsepower lose will only be as a result of the load being drawn from it not necessarily the rated amperage of the alternator? Additionally I would think a 20% buffer would be desirable.

 

[Red Cricket]

No just the basic car...lol. Maybe a good stereo would be my only major draw. Just looking not have any problems Starting...charging ect. I did get a chrome c-130...need to fab a bracket. Im running vortec heads..thus vortec intake..thinking earlyer bkts use the intake bolt. I Plan on leaving the battery in its original place maybe a larger one. Using gas tank no fuel cell. Looking for Reliableability. Tks

 

[Red Cricket]

No just the basic car...lol. Maybe a good stereo would be my only major draw. Just looking not have any problems Starting...charging ect. Plan on leaving the battery in its original place maybe a larger one. Using gas tank no fuel cell. Looking for Reliableability. Tks

 

[Mike Goble]

No just the basic car...lol. Maybe a good stereo would be my only major draw. Just looking not have any problems Starting...charging ect. Plan on leaving the battery in its original place maybe a larger one. Using gas tank no fuel cell. Looking for Reliableability. Tks

Again - AC Delco CS-130. Cheap. Powerful. Reliable. Adaptible. Available. I use one on my BMW for these reasons.

Don't overthink this.

 

[Red Cricket]

I did pick up a chrome one on ebay for 86.00...but it has provisions for a plug and a single wire..do I need both? Tks

 

[Mike Goble]

I did pick up a chrome one on ebay for 86.00...but it has provisions for a plug and a single wire..do I need both? Tks

What do the instructions say?

 

[Custom Jim]

just the basic car...lol. Maybe a good stereo would be my only major draw. Just looking not have any problems Starting...charging ect. I did get a chrome c-130...need to fab a bracket. I Plan on leaving the battery in its original place maybe a larger one. Tks

If you do not have one now, put in a volt meter to monitor things. If while driving you see the volt meter going lower and lower, then chances are the alternator is not large enough to keep up with the demands. The car battery is in place to mostly start the car and then the alternator should be supplying the power after that (and please do not do any testing with disconnecting the battery while the car is running to check things).

As far as problems, make good solid connections on things. If you want to use those 99 cent battery terminals that clamp onto stripped off battery cable ends, then be prepared to redo those connections now and then. Put electrical connections on top of painted surface, be prepared for possible issues.

Jim

 

[Red Cricket]

The alternator came with No instructions...from ebay. Just a box. Lots say single wire. Im going to american wire for new wiring. They can put unit on either side.