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FYI - I raised the Heidts front subframe w/ a BBC question to Sanderson Headers. They advised they have a shorty style (model BB1) or a full length style (model C5) that fits the Heights subframe with a BBC.

The primary tubes are 1 7/8 with a 3" collector. Little small for my engine, but better to go smaller on the street that larger - I guess? thoughts?
 

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Headers by Doug

First off,quality is excellent. On my 66 there are issues however. With Patriot heads they fit the engine very well except the #7 spark plug has no clearance. Can't even install the plug while on the engine stand. Some gentle massaging while on a jig,problem solved.........Problem #2. Install engine in Nova which now has Church boys rack conversion. Steering shaft needs to go directly through #1 primary %$#@ & *^%$#@<%^^&&*# $$$$$$! Now order another 3/4" double D u-joint,a heim type shaft support, redesign steering shaft... Too much angle for U-joints. More bad words, more$$$$$ Guess I'll order a set of Hooker 2243's tomorrow, would rather have 1 5/8" but oh well. Rant off. Did I mention I really liked the looks and quality of the Dougs 367"s?
 

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First off,quality is excellent. On my 66 there are issues however. With Patriot heads they fit the engine very well except the #7 spark plug has no clearance. Can't even install the plug while on the engine stand. Some gentle massaging while on a jig,problem solved.........Problem #2. Install engine in Nova which now has Church boys rack conversion. Steering shaft needs to go directly through #1 primary %$#@ & *^%$#@<%^^&&*# $$$$$$! Now order another 3/4" double D u-joint,a heim type shaft support, redesign steering shaft... Too much angle for U-joints. More bad words, more$$$$$ Guess I'll order a set of Hooker 2243's tomorrow, would rather have 1 5/8" but oh well. Rant off. Did I mention I really liked the looks and quality of the Dougs 367"s?
They're great, but they're designed for a stock front clip. With the stock steering box out of the way, you might have even more options.
 

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Dougs

I truely believe there are more options with the stock steering box being gone. The real problem now seems to be the routing of the #1 primary. It looks like the best solution might be the straight back #1 that the super comp uses. I will try and find some more pics of different brand headers and see if any thing else looks promising. My main purpose in my last post was to hopefully save someone else the aggravation and expense that I enjoyed with the Dougs tubes on my particular installation.
 

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I tried a set of the Dougs 367 on my 63 yesterday.ZZ4 motor with a TCI front clip.Steering shaft goes right thru #1 tube.So its a nogo.Back to the block huggers until I find something else.
The pricey ones(tci I think) fit nicely BUT not with a manual trans.The collector comes out right at clutch fork.The right side requires some "clearencing" to clear the large bellhousing but will work.But they are very nice looking headers.:cool:
 

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I tried a set of the Dougs 367 on my 63 yesterday.ZZ4 motor with a TCI front clip.Steering shaft goes right thru #1 tube.So its a nogo.Back to the block huggers until I find something else.
The pricey ones(tci I think) fit nicely BUT not with a manual trans.The collector comes out right at clutch fork.The right side requires some "clearencing" to clear the large bellhousing but will work.But they are very nice looking headers.:cool:
Dougs headers are for a stock front clip.;)
 

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I have read through about 30 pages of header advice but still have a question!

Is the interference on the chassis headers between the header and the arm that sticks out of the steering column, or is it between the header and the rod that runs down to the transmission?
 

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I have read through about 30 pages of header advice but still have a question!

Is the interference on the chassis headers between the header and the arm that sticks out of the steering column, or is it between the header and the rod that runs down to the transmission?
It all depends on the headers. Sometimes one or the other, and sometimes both. As you've read, the most effective solution for keeping a column shifter is to replace the rod linkage with a cable.
 

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I was thinking about the cable option for an upcoming swap I will likely be doing for someone. The thing that concerned me was that if it's the arm off the column that hits then there is no point in doing a cable because the arm still has to stay on the column to hook the cable to.

Did I word that all so that it makes sense??!!
 

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Headers for mini blowers

The 1 1/2" primary tube headers worked fine on the modified 327, but now I have added a mini blower. headerdesign.com is good, but avoids boost. The mini blower will add only a few pounds of boost so I feel stepping up to a 1 5/8" primary tube header would be a good idea. I have heard that header design for a forced induction engine is not as critical as n/a, but with a mini blower it is a cross-over, the engine will run most of the time not under boost. The header size would support the over all power curve and not just the peak.
Any advise? Thanks, Al
 

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I was thinking about the cable option for an upcoming swap I will likely be doing for someone. The thing that concerned me was that if it's the arm off the column that hits then there is no point in doing a cable because the arm still has to stay on the column to hook the cable to.

Did I word that all so that it makes sense??!!
I got it all to work on a 63 Acadian wagon with a 200-4R trans. The lever on the column needed just a tiny tweak, the arm down to the bellcranke, just a tiny tweak, bit of a bend on the arm on the bellcrank and made a brand new rod running across under the header.
 

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67 headers

anyone running headers w/power steering ? '67 327. what brand seem to be the consensus for ease of installment w/out the bfh?
 

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headers

do you have a part number are your ceramic coated?






67ChevySedan,
I have Hooker SuperComps on my 66, should be the same for the 67.
They are a pain, the engine has to be lifted a bit and the car has to be quite a ways off the ground, either on a hoist or on some high jackstands. The headers have to come in from the bottom if the engine is in the car.

Not real fun!
 

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Custom Equal Length Headers for BBC Chevy II

Hi ,I just wanted to let everyone know that there is a shop in Maple Ridge BC that does a super job building custom equal length headers. They just finished mine and they are the best looking and built headers I've seen. The company is small and just starting up, but do they ever do nice work. Drag'n Car Creations, talk to Brian or Collin.:yes:
 

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for the hookers that were installed, starter did it need the mini or was it just a a little to close for comfort, if I can remember it fit but there was only a small clearance gap, I put heat sheild,
the fly wheel, in my case I have a 1975 stock saginaw and bell housing attached to a 1975 0010 350 block, will the bell housing and fly whell not clear the header install.
Im not to concerned about the lifting off the engine and car as i will be changing to the heads to a set of WP S IIs square bore angle plug set up, ah does the hooker work with angle plug heads? any help is good.
 

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Doug's, beautiful product, don't fit...So how about budget headers

First off to let you all know, I bought a set of Doug's D317 which is a VERY nice product...thick flange, heavy tubing, and nice welds. I decided to cough up the cash for the headers since they say they "guarantee their fitment". I dropped the driver side in and Wha La! Beautiful! Man these things really are worth $752, kick *****. What a dream the driver side was. Now for the passender side. I undo the motor mount, jack up the motor a couple of inches, drop the header down in there and bolt it up. Bam! go to let the motor down and the header hits the shock tower. Umm...I get under the car and I see the header is pinned between the shock tower and the bellhousing. Oh, did I mention I had the starter out. Yeah and I couldn't get my mini starter to go in with the 153 tooth flexplate either. Well back they go. Now if I could just grab the darn things and move the tubes where I want them, they would fit just fine. They went back to Pertronix, put my set in their jig and said they fit just right so it must be my vehicle. F%$&*!!!!!

You have now been forewarned. If you decide to get Doug's or several other brands and want the ceramic coated variety, order them through Jet-Hot. I could order them for less through Jet-Hot than I could through Pertronix. Jet-Hot's coating is MUCH better and is on the inside and outside. Whereas Pertonix only puts the coating on the outside.

Next warning, the sales rep at Jet-Hot isn't the shapest pencil in the box but is a nice enough guy. They also sent me a set for a '68 Chevelle with a big block instead of a set for a '66 Chevy II with a small block the first go round. However, I do have to say with two sets of headers shipped to me and back to them, I didn't pay a penny.

NOW MY QUESTION -
Which cheap budget header is the best fit from the get go. If I'm gonna have to beat on these things I don't wanna be doing it on a $700-$1000 set. Has anyone tried Summit's SUM-G9004 or Flowtech's 11110FLT? I'm thinking maybe with a torch and a press maybe I can get them to fit.

I have been looking at the Sanderson CC14 but the dimension on their website from the face of the header (where it bolts up to the head) to the outside of the tube is 2-3/4", which just happens to be exactly all the room I have from the head to the shock tower (on the passenger side). Also had a set of ramhorns that didn't work on the passenger side.

Thanks for any and all help!
 

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I DID AN ENGINE SWAP FOR NIC 1227 AND WE TRIED 2 STYLES OF LONG HEADERS AND THEY DIDN'T FIT THE PASSENGER SIDE, THEY HIT THE STARTER! :mad:
WE ENDED UP WITH SANDERSON SHORTIES AND THAT SETTLED ALL THE PROBLEMS! :D
 
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