[SuperNova69]

K guys, I got a question. I'm thinking I need a "torque strap" (not sure what they're really called) for my engine. It's been acting up lately and I thought I had it fixed, but it started acting up again, and the first thing I checked was the timing. It looked ok, so the next thing I thought was that the cap came off because it does that a lot. It was still on. So I decided to take the cap off and check the rotor and that's when I found the problem. The cap has a huge crack in it and the rotor was totally bent. I'm thinking that my motor revved up and slammed into the firewall when I had a busted motor mount on the driver's side. I replaced both mounts but the motor still moves a lot when I rev it. Will polyurethane motor mounts help any or should I just get a torque strap? Also, does anyone actually sell them or do I have to just make my own? I'm thinking if I did get one it would help my electrical stuff, too, since it would improve the ground contact.

Any comments/opinions/advice would be great.

Matt

 

[Zman]

I've seen everything from a piece of chain, to cable, even a turnbuckle once...
You can check Jegs, or Summit, but the motor shouldn't move around all that much in teh first place. Maybe you just got some really crappy mounts??
Why not just fix the real problem as suggested in the other post. Do something with the distributer. Either "Clearance" the firewall for the stocer HEI, or look into a small body HEI. There are lots of Distributer choices available.

 

[69NovaSS]

So I decided to take the cap off and check the rotor and that's when I found the problem. The cap has a huge crack in it and the rotor was totally bent. I'm thinking that my motor revved up and slammed into the firewall when I had a busted motor mount on the driver's side. I replaced both mounts but the motor still moves a lot when I rev it. Matt

I am not clear if you have replaced the cap and rotor since you changed your motor mounts? If not that is the first thing I would do before changing anything else. There is little chance a bent rotor and cracked cap will stay on the motor for long.
But as far an engine movement is concerned they do move a bit when reved and that is normal, of course hitting the firewall is not normal, that should be fixed with the new mounts you installed. So I susgest you fix the problems with the distributor first and see if the car is still acting up if it is then look at the mounts / torque strap. The distributor is a much easier fix than the mounts right now and may be all that is needed.

 

[novaboy009]

Are you sure you had the cap cranked down all the way? Did you miss one of the tab screws? I did that once and the rotor cracked the cap rather violently.

Kev

 

[Dawg]

Pros/cons of solid motor mounts

Just wanted to hear it from the experts.....

 

[undercvrSS]

Depends on what your doing with the car. Our race car has solid, and works fine, but I put urethane ones on my 67, and I hate them. For a street car use rubber. With solid you will feel evry vibration in the car, shakes and rattles galore. the benefits are that they won't break very easy, and will out last the rubber. They're also good for the reaction of the car, but they will put more twist in the car.

 

[MI-76]

my dad's 406 s-10 has solid motor and trans mounts. you can expect some extra vibration,. you can also expect to go over your fasteners on a regular basis and make sure they are still torqued to spec. I know his trans pan bolts get loose, so he's got to keep them in check.

 

[footbrake68]

Echo the same opinion ... in general - select your parts for all mounts depending on the purpose, HP and torque of your car. If you are driving on the street most of the time and looking for a comfortable ride - then go with good quality rubber bushings and mounts (body, motor, tranny, etc.) If you will be dividing your time between strip / street - then your selection is up to what you want to tolerate during street usage. Canyon carving and road course type applications you can step up to a combination of poly mounts or your preference to stiffen up the car. For the strip or mostly strip applications - drop in aluminum body mounts, welded subframe, traction control and solid mounts for the motor, etc.

Am sure you will get much more specific input from other members who have completed projects for different purposes - but these guidelines should be pretty good to start.

Hope that helps ...

 

[Dawg]

It's for a street/strip use. I never thought with solid motor mounts it works the bolts loose. I guess something that is better than the stock rubber ones.

 

[NovatoriusRex]

When planning my motor install, I knew I didn't want to go solid because it didn't make much sense for a car that won't see the track more than a few times a year. For a dedicated racer, possibly.

I also didn't want to worry about rubber ones wearing out quickly and needing to be replaced.

Since I'm not overly concerned with vibration that is going to be tranmitted using poly engine mounts, I chose those. We'll see how the car likes it. My thought is that unless you're driving the car every day, poly is the way to go, which is why I went that way.

 

[SuperNova69]

Yeah, when I saw the crack in the cap I immediately went and bought a new cap and rotor. I don't know how good the mounts are, I got them from Autozone (didn't even know they sold them there!) and they looked a LOT better than my old ones. If I rev my engine up from under the hood, you can see the rubber stretching, though. I'm thinking poly mounts might be a future upgrade...or maybe solid...I've probably opened up a can of worms just mentioning those, .

And yes, I plan on eventually getting one of those Crane Cams distributors with the allen wrench adjustable timing, but since it costs $320 for the distributor, another $150 or so for the box (since it says it needs one), and then another $50 or so for a coil, it'll be a while before I can get it. So this big old distributor will have to last.

Matt

 

[Paul Wright]

The pre 73 mounts are more prone to strectching and breaking. That's why GM went to the clamshell mounts. Either put a torque limiter on the drivers side or try this old trick:

Install a solid mount on the drivers side and a regular rubber one on the pass side. Use a self locking nut on the horizontal bolt on the solid side. Don't snug it too tight. That way the engine can float on the rubber mount but not lift.

 

[SuperNova69]

Thanks, Paul. I'll probably do whatever's cheaper. I don't mind having to use a solid mount on the driver's side since I want this to be a corner carver, so it's gonna have to have a pretty rigid chassis.

I'll start looking into some solid mounts.

Matt

 

[novaboy009]

I'd wrap a chain around and call it a day. Nothing more than a dollar or two. Didn't they have them as a factory option on the Z/28's?

Kev

 

[72GreenRally]

I wrap a chain around and call it a day. Nothing more than a dollar or two. Didn't they have them as a factory option on the Z/28's?

Kev

Chain wrapped around it?? I am thinking not a factory option. Sounds more like an option added by one with crimson colored cranial support.

Randy (might have to send that one to Foxworthy!!)

 

[SuperNova69]

The only thing I could find were ground straps, and I don't know if that would be tough enough to hold the engine down or if it's just a cheap, light metal strap. It was $19.95 at Classic Industries, and solid mounts were $21.88 from Summit, so I just got the mounts. I'd rather have the mount anyway, as I think the strap would be an eye sore.

We'll see how I like the new mounts.

Matt

 

[novaboy009]

Ready for some Viii-bbrraaatttt-iiiooonnnnssss?

Kev (Solid mounts are shakily annoying, just to let you know)

 

[novapower]

why not put solid motor mounts in .my 58 is running @ 500 lbs of torque and rubber or poly will not hold up long.those straps look cheap.i put my threw the test every weekend and never have any problem. :chev:

 

[the mechanic]

what i always did here was mentioned before get a peice of chain and a peice of black rubber hose to cover the chain and cut it so its long enough to let the mount work properly but not long enough that it can snap the mount. the hose will make it look better and keep it from rattaling(sp?)
i agree with whoever said solid mounts are terrible in a daily driver or a weekend cruiser at least IMO.

 

[Paul Wright]

A compromise which reduces the vibration problem is using only one solid mount as described in my post above. Plus if you split the set with a buddy it's pretty cheap too.