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Discussion Starter #1
You guys may remember a few weeks ago when I made a thread about breaking a bolt of in my edelbrock intake.And then ruining the intake trying to extract the broken bolt....

Well tommorow I am going to order the replacement and plan on going with a performer RPM for sure.Just thinking about upgrading a little bit.What I was wondering if the air gap was worth the extra 60 bucks over the standard version?

Besides dyno comparison in magazines where they take a built roller cammed small block and stick an air gap on it and make 20 more HP than another intake.Do you guys think it will make a big enough difference on my mostly stock engine to tell or is it better spent else where?


Thanks for any advice.....
 

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In a mostly stock motor you probably won't see anymore performance over the regular RPM manifold.
But how long do you really plan on staying mostly stock?
The slight upgrade may not do much now, but what about later when you add a bigger cam, better carb, headers, etc?

No sense in buying the same part twice if you don't have to.
 

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Dont waste your money

The two intakes are essentially the same with the only difference being with the gap. This theoretically allows for a cooler intake charge, but for you it should not make a difference. A while back I was at the same point and after reading a bunch of forums came to the conclusion that there is very little advantage to the airgap. I am sure you can find better uses for your money.
Robert out! :cool:
 

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I would pay the extra $60. Small price for the option. I wish I would have done that to begin with. I started with a performer, a year later a prefoormer rpm, and now airgap. So the performer was $127.95 the rpm was 149.95, airgap 218.95 total $496.85. Sold the performer for $50, sold rpm for $75. Subtract selling the old ones $371.85 is what my airgap cost me. All three intakes would have worked on my my motor stock to modified. This was over a few years but one way of looking at what the "extra $60" could have saved me.
 

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The airgap can have issues on cold starts because it takes longer to warm the plenum so the car can run poorly off idle. I have that issue on my sbf. Not really a big deal but if you live in a cold area and driveability is a concern then...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The motor is a 350 small block.Stock lower end.With a set of vortec heads.It has a Edelbrock 600 carb and a set of 1 5/8 headers into 2.5 inch dual hooker aerochambers.I am getting ready to pull the motor to install a new cam and lifters.It is a lunati bracket master with .458 lift.218 duration @ .050.

Not really concerned with the cold start thing.This is just a weekend cruiser/joy rider.Not a daily driver or anything....

Hopefully after this one it will be ALONG time before I buy a new intake.I just broke a new one...

Thanks 4 the advice.
 

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Many times if you break a bolt off, it breaks off at the top, you can place a nut over it and weld the nut to the bolt on the inside, then just screw it out.
 

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I had just a rpm in the past and worked great, save your money, just block off the heat crossover with intake gaskets, besides i think the original rpm looks better too.
 

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I would pay the extra $60. Small price for the option. I wish I would have done that to begin with. I started with a performer, a year later a prefoormer rpm, and now airgap. So the performer was $127.95 the rpm was 149.95, airgap 218.95 total $496.85. Sold the performer for $50, sold rpm for $75. Subtract selling the old ones $371.85 is what my airgap cost me. All three intakes would have worked on my my motor stock to modified. This was over a few years but one way of looking at what the "extra $60" could have saved me.
people pay $371 for 5-6hp gains all the time.
 

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people pay $371 for 5-6hp gains all the time.
Yea and its more than 5-6hp going from the perform to the rpm air gap. I wish i would have got the airgap rpm when I bought the performer for my mostly stock motor. That mostly stock situation didnt last very long. I like to keep pushing it but some are happy with it.
 

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Many times if you break a bolt off, it breaks off at the top, you can place a nut over it and weld the nut to the bolt on the inside, then just screw it out.
I was thinking the same thing, there isn't much on an aluminum intake that can't be repaired except corrosion. If you know of someone with a tig welder just about anything can be repaired. I've helicoiled some nasty looking holes and they hold up better than before.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well I ended up ordering the standard performer RPM.I have excellent results in the past with them.And after I figured the money deal out it just wasn't quite worth it.I got the proper edelbrock gaskets and gascacinch as well....


Yeah yeah I know aluminum is repairable.But we did quite the # on it tryin to get that bolt out....


Thanks for all the advice.I have heard those air gaps are a pita to keep clean as well.Even though the leaves is new one!


Now to see if the stock vortecs can handle the .458 lift cam.....
 

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Thanks for all the advice.I have heard those air gaps are a pita to keep clean as well.Even though the leaves is new one!
my single plane looks like crap underneath because of this. not that i care that much (obviously, or i'd do some prep work or execute better cleanup). messy or not it leaves a lot of better looking cars at the starting line :devil:
 
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