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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not sure what kind of operating temperatures are normal for a 350 SBC. My car has a VERY large radiator but its only a one core rad. I don't have a shroud to match it either. Right now I'm running no shroud at all.

My car stalled coming towards my house today and after reading the troubleshooting guide for my car I found out it may be overheating. I checked the temperature guage in my car(installed in the drivers side head) and it' reading about 190 degrees f. Is this too hot? What is an acceptable running temperature?

I found the short in my electrical system(or so I hope) and the nova was running great. My fuel sending unit is shot so I figured I might aswell go grab some gas and make sure there was some in the tank. After getting gas I went down the street and grabbed a fuel filter from parts source since mine was getting clogged and had crap settled in the bottom of it. Right as I pulled into the parking lot I noticed the engine was surging. I simply parked and grabbed the fuel filter. The trip home was a little sketching between a few spuratic idles. Then as I was coming down the street infront of my house the car died. I had enough momentum that I rolled right onto the driveway but none the less I'm having another "car won't idle under 1000 RPM" problem. This is the same problem I had a few weeks ago. Last time the car randomly started working again.
 

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190 is perfect... My car runs around 200 at a light and 190 while driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'll have to try to figure out what's wrong with my motor then. Its both surging and now its quit idling under 1000 RPM. I ran the car with a brand new 650 edelbrock carb and old crappy tank for quite a few months(always replacing inline filters). I'm hoping I didn't wreck the carb. I've never rebuilt one before and I'm thinking I might have to. Even though the carbs less then a year old.

Exam week isn't this week but the week after and I was hoping to drive it then. After that I was going to pull the motor because it needs a full rebuild. I'm hoping it will last that long if not I may be pulling it now.
 

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When it stalled or when it stalls, take the air filter off and look into the carb. While looking, advance the throttle quickly and see if fuel squirts out into the carb. No fuel or just a little bit means you are out of fuel in the carb. In which case your filter could be plugged again or the fuel bowls are empty or the accelerator pump isn't working. The last is unlikely but the first two indicate a fuel starvation by either the filter or pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I believe there IS a filter in the carb. I'm almost positive its right behind the fitting that I attach the fuel line to. Its just a small cylinder. I always have run a larger inline fuel filter before that though.

I replaced the fuel filter today and its still surging REALLY bad, idling bad, and not holding an idle. I had to crank the idle to get to 1250. Before it would have been about 1750 if I cranked it that high.


I'm thinking it could be my timing. Could this be an issue? I also have low oil pressure which is most likely a loose main bearing. Could this be affecting the distributor?
 

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The timing will definitely effect the idle, and how it runs overall. If your engine is worn out enough that the oil pressure is really low, it could also be that your timing chain and gears are worn out. If your timing chain has not jumped a tooth, you should be able to get it run fair, if it will hold a timing setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I made the mistake of taking my car to the mechanics a little while ago. He was having troubles with the timing and getting it set right. Thats when he pulled the intake saying it was a vaccuum leak and charged me over $200.

I'll see if I can find a timing light tomorrow and give this thing a shot. I've never timed something before but a friend of mine helped install an intake and carb a few months ago. He had timed the motor and showed me how to go about doing it.

I'll should be able to find a timing light tomorrow.
 

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Me Too

I have a similar problem too. My car runs hot after driving a while. I've installed an electric fan and it still runs hot. I don't think I've ever seen it at a constant temperature. I've replaced the water pump, thermostat and it has a brand new radiator. So I am puzzled. Any ideas??
 

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I have a similar problem too. My car runs hot after driving a while. I've installed an electric fan and it still runs hot. I don't think I've ever seen it at a constant temperature. I've replaced the water pump, thermostat and it has a brand new radiator. So I am puzzled. Any ideas??
Did you burp the coolant system after you installed all those goodies?I bet you have an air bubble in the system.bm
 

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I have a similar problem too. My car runs hot after driving a while. I've installed an electric fan and it still runs hot. I don't think I've ever seen it at a constant temperature. I've replaced the water pump, thermostat and it has a brand new radiator. So I am puzzled. Any ideas??
How hot is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Could be...What is your timing set at?bm
I checked my timing as best I could with the engine surging. The timing was set to around 7 degrees advanced. I'm thinking of replacing the fuel filter in the carb but I've never done it before or even seen it done before. I'm guess I can just unscrew the fuel intake fitting on the carb and it's right there.

Its a 650 thunder series carb. I might try that a little later.
 

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Did you disconnect the vaccuum advance, and plug the hose when you checked the timing?
 

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I checked my timing as best I could with the engine surging. The timing was set to around 7 degrees advanced. I'm thinking of replacing the fuel filter in the carb but I've never done it before or even seen it done before. I'm guess I can just unscrew the fuel intake fitting on the carb and it's right there.

Its a 650 thunder series carb. I might try that a little later.
Thats waaay off!!Should be 8-14* before top dead center!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did you disconnect the vaccuum advance, and plug the hose when you checked the timing?
No I didn't. Now that you mention it I remember being told to do that... It's my first time around checking timing

I was just doing a quick google search for surging and I came accross someone who was having troubles with what they figured was vapour lock. I just ran new headers and new fuel lines in my car. The front half(goes near the headers) were the only portion I did in rubber. Could this be a problem? I have a clear plastic fuel filter right beside the carb and it seems to stay almost completely full all the time other then a small air bubble at the top. Could I still be getting no pressure because of vapour lock? I run a stock mechanical fuel pump. I have a small section of steel line running from the output of the fuel pump up just behind the alternator where it switches to rubber again. I've also got a loop for the cooling system that goes from my water pump into my intake. The rubber fuel line gets really close to that aswell.

I'm thinking I may be having a vapour lock problem. Sound plausible or no?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No I didn't. Now that you mention it I remember being told to do that... It's my first time around checking timing

I was just doing a quick google search for surging and I came accross someone who was having troubles with what they figured was vapour lock. I just ran new headers and new fuel lines in my car. The front half(goes near the headers) were the only portion I did in rubber. Could this be a problem? I have a clear plastic fuel filter right beside the carb and it seems to stay almost completely full all the time other then a small air bubble at the top. Could I still be getting no pressure because of vapour lock? I run a stock mechanical fuel pump. I have a small section of steel line running from the output of the fuel pump up just behind the alternator where it switches to rubber again. I've also got a loop for the cooling system that goes from my water pump into my intake. The rubber fuel line gets really close to that aswell.

I'm thinking I may be having a vapour lock problem. Sound plausible or no?
I just tried timing the engine again this time with a fuel line pincher on the vaccuum advance line. Now I'm getting around 20 degree's advance. I tried adjusting it and the car doesn't seem to run if I move it either way. I noticed I'm also getting a TON of blowby coming out of the valve cover breathers even when the car's warmed up. I think its ready for it to come out.
 
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