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Discussion Starter #1
Last night I connected the transmission so I could do some more test fitting. While doing this some things popped into my mind that I want to ask you guys.

1. How do you bolt the torque converter to the flywheel? It has a full bellhousing and I cannot see how this can be done after seating the converter on the input shaft.

2. I have seen a few pics of 4l60e transmissions that have a black electrical device on the gear selector. What is this and do I need one? Here is a pic of mine, obviously, without the black "thing". :confused:
 

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i guess u could bolt the torque coverter to the flywheel. then while you are puting the tranny to the engine slowly turn the engine over till the splines line up and slide together, i have done this before wether its right or not. dont know about the black thingy.
 

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Conveter bolt access is through the starter hole,large black thing is the PRNDL switch typicly not used in conversions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I had been searching for about an hour on LS1tech, before posting my question. But after posting I went over to LS1tech and went to their trans threads and searched a few different keywords. I did find a thread that linked me to another site that showed exactly what Nova 404 stated.:eek: Should have done a little more searching before asking on here. Thanks.

So for my second question. I can just hook my Kugle shift arm kit
to the gear selector and the column and be done with it??
 

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black thing

black thing is the Park/Neutral Position Switch converer bolt go in trough the starter hole
 

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Under normal conditions its not needed so yes you can just hook up a shifter and your good to go.If you have a big cam then you might want a signal going to the ECM to let in know when your in gear.
 

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Should use a brake light switch that unlatches the lock up converter when you step on the brake. Also you need to include a park neutral switch in the shifter to prevent starting in drive or reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Should use a brake light switch that unlatches the lock up converter when you step on the brake. Also you need to include a park neutral switch in the shifter to prevent starting in drive or reverse.
Does't the ECM control the locking and unlocking of the converter?

Is there a way to use the neutral safety switch that originally came with the car?
 

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Psi harness sells the right brake light converter switch for 16$.

You might be able to use the switch on the side of the trans. I'm gonna look into that for mine. Just have to look into the wire diagram.

Charley


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 

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Yes the original car neutral switch can be used. If your running EFI the ECM and trans will lock up the converter, needs an in put(brake switch) to turn the converter clutch off so you can stop. 85 Monte Carlo brake switch with cruise control will do the trick
 

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Thanks for the replies. I had been searching for about an hour on LS1tech, before posting my question. But after posting I went over to LS1tech and went to their trans threads and searched a few different keywords. I did find a thread that linked me to another site that showed exactly what Nova 404 stated.:eek: Should have done a little more searching before asking on here. Thanks.

So for my second question. I can just hook my Kugle shift arm kit
to the gear selector and the column and be done with it??
i just went thru this same thing on sunday with mine. i researched and researched nowhere did i find the answer , i wondered the same thing how do you do it, i just jumped in and figured it out, where the starter goes you have enough room to get to it one bolt at a time... sounds like we are at the same place in our builds . if ya have a question pm me and ill do the same if thats ok?
 

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The 4l60e in my truck has an inspection cover that is removable on the lower (Forward facing) portion of the bellhousing. (It is mounted/attached by 5 small bolts that follow the bottom radius of the bellhousing) The nose cone of the starter actually goes through a hole on the pass side of this cover. (The starter does have to be removed to get the cover off)

I was able to get to all my converter bolts from either side of the oil pan through this inspection cover. Also there is a 2' dia round inspection cover that pops out of the bottom of the bell housing. I used a med size pry bar to hold the flexplate steady while tightening up the converter bolts. You do have to rotate the flexplate (Crankshaft) manually to get to all the converter bolts.

Hope this helps some:yes:
Good Luck on it:D
 

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The 4l60e in my truck has an inspection cover that is removable on the lower (Forward facing) portion of the bellhousing. (It is mounted/attached by 5 small bolts that follow the bottom radius of the bellhousing) The nose cone of the starter actually goes through a hole on the pass side of this cover. (The starter does have to be removed to get the cover off)

I was able to get to all my converter bolts from either side of the oil pan through this inspection cover. Also there is a 2' dia round inspection cover that pops out of the bottom of the bell housing. I used a med size pry bar to hold the flexplate steady while tightening up the converter bolts. You do have to rotate the flexplate (Crankshaft) manually to get to all the converter bolts.

Hope this helps some:yes:
Good Luck on it:D
i think the early models have the lower cover. the one like i have the bell housing is completely around ,like a manual trans bell housing, there is even 2 lower holes that bolt into the bottom of the oil pan...
 

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i think the early models have the lower cover. the one like i have the bell housing is completely around ,like a manual trans bell housing, there is even 2 lower holes that bolt into the bottom of the oil pan...
Yea mine is an older setup. It's a 99' vortec SBC. I was just looking at some pics of the LS and LSX and they do look a lot different than mine. Mine has the old style SBC oil pan.
 
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