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As far as strength it should be fine, my only concern is oil return back to the center section. If you have a slot cut into the bottom of the sleeve it won't be a problem.
 

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Finished Housing Width?

What was the final housing width, axle flange to axle flange when you were done?

What is the oil drain back issue you guys are talking about?
 

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I'll probably add this to our 8.8" axle thread in best of tech once commenting is done.
 

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I know when I shortened my 9 inch, I didn't use a sleeve and broke the weld when I put slicks on it.

I personally would either sleeve it or pushed the tube out of the housing entirely, trimmed it, and pressed it back in.
 

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Tube

I didn't know how to get the tube out of the housing. There appear to be three "rivets" kind of mashed in there with what looked like a BFH. That would have been a clean way of doing it, but I couldn't find a procedure to remove the tube from the housing, so I resorted to this way. I checked this morning and I did have the groove in my sleeve on the bottom. (Thank goodness, I just lucked out, because I didn't plan it that way!) It would probably have been OK, but the sleeve is about lined up with the fill level.

Flange to flange it is 56 1/2. Rotors are 3/16 each so with rotors installed flange to flange it's 56 7/8.
Here's a picture of the sleeve.
 

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Is the sleeve really necessary?
Yes it is, it adds a lot of strength to the shortened tube. I have adjusted the width of trailer axles many times using this method. The only difference on the trailer axles is the sleeve can be put on the outside. Drilling the holes for the puddle welds was also a good idea.
 

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love what you did but not to be negative ... how do you know its straight,or are you just crossing your fingers?

arne
 

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If the cut is straight, square, the tubes are marked and some time is spent making the sleeve fit just right I think there wouldnt be a problem
 

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BTW Markus, nice job on that and where are more pics of your car?:confused::D
 

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Man I love down home stuff like this. Hot Rodding at it's finest moments! I'd run that and not even think twice about it.
 

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love what you did but not to be negative ... how do you know its straight,or are you just crossing your fingers?

arne
I did cut the tube square and I clamped it with three pieces of angle iron. Also I measured from the housing to the inside of the flange and it measured perfectly. Even if it was a 32nd or a 16th off, I don't think it would be enough to ever notice. It might make a .01 degree difference.
 

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If the cut is straight, square, the tubes are marked and some time is spent making the sleeve fit just right I think there wouldnt be a problem

This is assuming that the housing end was welded on dead centerline to the tube in the first place which it probably was not. Housing ends are welded on last after all bracketry because when the tube warps from welding the ends are put on true axle centerline with a centering jig. I just did a chassiwork housing with four link brackets and when I installed my jig to put the housing ends on 'last' it shows how much the tubes moved with all the fab/welding. One tube had moved about 1/32" and the other almost a 1/16". With the centering bar the ends are then put back on true center. Had I just put the ends back on tube center they would have been that far off. Now in reality yours will 'probably' be fine but its not 'THE' method to use.
 

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Im not knocking the attempt, just pointing out the fact that the method used will keep the tube relatively straight but doesnt mean the housing end is on axle centerline. Like I said it will probbly be ok, ive seen it done before that way.


OBTW, I machined my own jig bar and pucks and have an old nine inch center I use for narrowing and it didnt cost me anything.:D
 

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Im not knocking the attempt, just pointing out the fact that the method used will keep the tube relatively straight but doesnt mean the housing end is on axle centerline. Like I said it will probbly be ok, ive seen it done before that way.


OBTW, I machined my own jig bar and pucks and have an old nine inch center I use for narrowing and it didnt cost me anything.:D
Do you have a picture you could post using your jig bar? Also, do you know if there is a way to remove the tube from the housing without major equipment? I really would have liked to have done this the "right" way (if there is one) but didn't know how.
 

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This is an update to an old thread I started, asking about using a Ford 8.8 rearend in a Gen 3 Nova. To summarize, the flange to flange measurement is almost exactly the same (60") but the pinion is offset 2 3/16 and the perches are off by about an inch or so. The rearend I got is from a '95-'01 Ford Exploder. If you get the tag that says 3L73 from this series you get posi, 3.73 gears and (I believe) 31 spline axels (at least mine has them and I have heard they all are). The 8.8 may not be quite as strong as a 9" but it is a LOT more common and is still a real beast. Supposedly the 8.8 is based on the GM 8.5 and may even have some interchangeable parts. Here is what I have done....

1. The tech dudes at Curry say the offset is not a problem; that it falls within the normal deflection for a u-joint.

2. Exploder rearends come with a weird 5" flange on the pinion, but not to worry, there is a saddle that bolts on it and NAPA has a u-joint with Ford on one side and GM on the other so it will bolt up to your shaft (NAPA PN PUJ-372 ... thanks Charlie!).

3. Brake lines on Exploders come in from the right side, but you can flip the lines on the rear axel and everything fits...well, it does with a 3/16 - 1/4 brake line adapter from NAPA ($6.09). Check out the pics./

4. If the eBrakes on the Exploder rear axel are even sort-of OK...keep them. Replacing the shoes is a major major B---- !! If you are brave (foolish) enough to try to replace them give me a PM and I will tell you what I learned :mad: )

5. I moved the perches. Some folks don't.

So the only other thing I have heard, which I have NOT tried, is that on an 8.8 posi (Ford calls it a limited slip, but what do they know?) you can replace the "S" spring with one from an F-150 and get more "bite" on the posi.

So...that what I found out so far................

Dave
Is this about all that is required to run this rearend in a 63'? What does the offset change to after going to this rear?
 

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Hi DJ...putting an Explorer 8.8 into a '63 is NOT going to be as clean as it was with my '71, because your '63 is quite a bit narrower. However, if you do choose to do it then you can center up the pumpkin when you narrow it up.

You also still have the same problem with the Ford lug pattern. For me it is not a problem as I am running ralley wheels that are drilled for both Ford and GM. However, if I wanted to run something like 5-spoke mags I would have to have the axles changed out. Not a big problem but still it adds up to a few more hundred bucks.

Maybe one of these other guys with 1st or 2nd gens can give you some better ideas.

Dave
 
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