As far as strength it should be fine, my only concern is oil return back to the center section. If you have a slot cut into the bottom of the sleeve it won't be a problem.
Yes it is, it adds a lot of strength to the shortened tube. I have adjusted the width of trailer axles many times using this method. The only difference on the trailer axles is the sleeve can be put on the outside. Drilling the holes for the puddle welds was also a good idea.Is the sleeve really necessary?
I did cut the tube square and I clamped it with three pieces of angle iron. Also I measured from the housing to the inside of the flange and it measured perfectly. Even if it was a 32nd or a 16th off, I don't think it would be enough to ever notice. It might make a .01 degree difference.love what you did but not to be negative ... how do you know its straight,or are you just crossing your fingers?
If the cut is straight, square, the tubes are marked and some time is spent making the sleeve fit just right I think there wouldnt be a problem
Do you have a picture you could post using your jig bar? Also, do you know if there is a way to remove the tube from the housing without major equipment? I really would have liked to have done this the "right" way (if there is one) but didn't know how.Im not knocking the attempt, just pointing out the fact that the method used will keep the tube relatively straight but doesnt mean the housing end is on axle centerline. Like I said it will probbly be ok, ive seen it done before that way.
OBTW, I machined my own jig bar and pucks and have an old nine inch center I use for narrowing and it didnt cost me anything.
Is this about all that is required to run this rearend in a 63'? What does the offset change to after going to this rear?This is an update to an old thread I started, asking about using a Ford 8.8 rearend in a Gen 3 Nova. To summarize, the flange to flange measurement is almost exactly the same (60") but the pinion is offset 2 3/16 and the perches are off by about an inch or so. The rearend I got is from a '95-'01 Ford Exploder. If you get the tag that says 3L73 from this series you get posi, 3.73 gears and (I believe) 31 spline axels (at least mine has them and I have heard they all are). The 8.8 may not be quite as strong as a 9" but it is a LOT more common and is still a real beast. Supposedly the 8.8 is based on the GM 8.5 and may even have some interchangeable parts. Here is what I have done....
1. The tech dudes at Curry say the offset is not a problem; that it falls within the normal deflection for a u-joint.
2. Exploder rearends come with a weird 5" flange on the pinion, but not to worry, there is a saddle that bolts on it and NAPA has a u-joint with Ford on one side and GM on the other so it will bolt up to your shaft (NAPA PN PUJ-372 ... thanks Charlie!).
3. Brake lines on Exploders come in from the right side, but you can flip the lines on the rear axel and everything fits...well, it does with a 3/16 - 1/4 brake line adapter from NAPA ($6.09). Check out the pics./
4. If the eBrakes on the Exploder rear axel are even sort-of OK...keep them. Replacing the shoes is a major major B---- !! If you are brave (foolish) enough to try to replace them give me a PM and I will tell you what I learned )
5. I moved the perches. Some folks don't.
So the only other thing I have heard, which I have NOT tried, is that on an 8.8 posi (Ford calls it a limited slip, but what do they know?) you can replace the "S" spring with one from an F-150 and get more "bite" on the posi.
So...that what I found out so far................