[mbcky2]

Today I got the evaporator in and I ran the lines to the engine bay. I opt for the ez clip A/C lines and I’m glad I did they are awesome. One thing I wish I would of ran the #6 line to the top hole but it will work. I still need to seat the grommets and put the press tape on and the under the dash stuff is done.

So the next problem I am battling is getting the inner fenders to fit to the core and one of the holes match but the other ones just seem pretty far off. I have had to notch some of the inner fender to not it the mounts on the core. Side note the core is a remanufactured as well as the passenger fender and inner fender. But the driver side is all original and that is where this picture was taken. I wish I still had the old core to reference but that was thrown out years ago. The only thing I can think of is the mounting holes on the core are off. If anyone has any ideas I’m open to hear them but that will be what I’m going to be focusing on.

 

[railroaderman]

on the E-Z Clips. So much easier when you can make the lines up as you go.

 

[mbcky2]

I have been trying to work on the car when I have time and get out there and put a few hours on my days off. little catch up, I have the the AC evaporator fully mounted and the lines ran up through the fire wall. I also started the body work on the passenger rear quarter panel and I’m working my way to the back. I than took down the rest of the old filler to metal where the molding holes were. Thankfully I did because I was able to just poke out the old welds or whatever was in there. The amount of crappy body work on this car is amazing but it’s just another step added to the process.

Has anyone ran into the shape of the door skin not matching up with the front fender? I have it lined up on the top and bottom and the middle arch is different. I was thinking oh using evercoat fiberglass glass with some body work. It just wanted to see what some of you guys think.

 

[kimmer71]

Can the fender be adjusted any closer? What about one of those cheap contour tools? Check the shape against the other door?

 

[J Mark]

Is it possible that there are not enough spacers on the bottom 2 bolts and you are sucking up the bottom of the fender causing a bow. Just throwing out there.

 

[kimmer71]

Hey, I was thinking about this and wondered if body mounts could be part of what is causing this? The upper fender bolts to the body and the lower to the subframe right? If the original body mounts were “shorter”, that bow in the fender would be more pronounced? That’s going to be a pretty healthy section of filler work if you have to go that route. The doorskin has to follow the shape of the door structure on that edge right? Not really any way for that to change? I don’t know this for sure because I’ve never done a door skin but I am good at making assumptions. I’m really good at making wrong assumptions.

 

[mbcky2]

Is it possible that there are not enough spacers on the bottom 2 bolts and you are sucking up the bottom of the fender causing a bow. Just throwing out there.

Thats a great Idea I might have to give that a try and see.

 

[mbcky2]

Hey, I was thinking about this and wondered if body mounts could be part of what is causing this? The upper fender bolts to the body and the lower to the subframe right? If the original body mounts were “shorter”, that bow in the fender would be more pronounced? That’s going to be a pretty healthy section of filler work if you have to go that route. The doorskin has to follow the shape of the door structure on that edge right? Not really any way for that to change? I don’t know this for sure because I’ve never done a door skin but I am good at making assumptions. I’m really good at making wrong assumptions.

Are you talking about the body mounts from the subframe to the body up by the firewall? I originally just used the urethane mounts but than after some reached I ended up add a space of 5/8” I believe. Don’t quote me on that I’m not at home to check. But I know I had to space it some. And yes the door skin just followed the contour of the door so I didn’t think that was it. And yes that would be way more filler that I would ever want to use.

 

[mbcky2]

The passenger side definitely took way more work than I ever thought. A lot of imperfections everywhere so I decided to basically skim the whole thing. And with the 2 replacement panels I knew I would take some work. But it’s done and sanded to 180 and waiting for epoxy. My plan was to epoxy that whole side and the door jam again so I started prepping that. Than I figured I would hit part of the roof and hit the other when I get don over there. The roof was pretty much down to metal but I decided to take it 100 percent to metal and I started to notice some little rust pits in a few spots. I wire wheeled those areas but I was still unsure if I got it all out and so I have some ospho and I sprayed that on and let it sit for about 30 hours. That stuff says you can spray it on and after 24 you can paint over it. I don’t know if that was the case. I should of taken a picture of the mess it made but it was all over the roof and I just wouldn’t trust spraying over that. So I got the ole sander back out and after about 2 hours and got everything off from that stuff.

I need to do some body work on the roof and didn’t want any filler in those pits until I was happy it was taken care off. So I ordered some fast etch and rust encapsulator from eastwood. Once that gets here I will treat it again and able to move forward. Also have some more pitting on the rear driver side, definitely a lot worse.

 

[J Mark]

Where the sail meets the roof always needs work where the solder is.

 

[kimmer71]

Where the sail meets the roof always needs work where the solder is.

Yep. I used "soft sanding" blocks for that area and it worked really well. Those are the ones that look like pool noodles. I was really "up-tight" about masking for epoxy on the 1st go-round. I did a bit more filler and glazing (rocker lines and rear corners) before I took the car off the twirley, and everything was way more lax! I don't know why I wasn't doing more "spot" work sooner.

Your car looks great @J Mark!

Sorry...getting senile I think. I meant @mbcky2. @J Mark, your car is looking great too!

 

[mbcky2]

Yep. I used "soft sanding" blocks for that area and it worked really well. Those are the ones that look like pool noodles. I was really "up-tight" about masking for epoxy on the 1st go-round. I did a bit more filler and glazing (rocker lines and rear corners) before I took the car off the twirley, and everything was way more lax! I don't know why I wasn't doing more "spot" work sooner.

Your car looks great @J Mark!

Sorry...getting senile I think. I meant @mbcky2. @J Mark, your car is looking great too!

yep, I’m going to get on those seams this week and I have to tend to a few spots on the roof. I definitely wish I did all the body on the rotisserie haha would of made life a lot better.

I think I’m getting senile as well haha but thanks man your car is looking as well. I just want it all in epoxy already so I don’t need to worries about bare metal.

 

[J Mark]

Yeah, I really didn't touch the body while on a rotisserie I just focused on the under carriage and the interior roof. I'm ok finishing it on the ground. I dont think I could of done it without a twirley.

 

[mbcky2]

Yeah, I really didn't touch the body while on a rotisserie I just focused on the under carriage and the interior roof. I'm ok finishing it on the ground. I dont think I could of done it without a twirley.

Thats pretty much what I did. Definitely helped building my 4 link for sure. Just wish I did the roof work and lower body work on the rotisserie. But Luckily the roof isn’t too bad.