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Ok I have finished cleaning out the interior and pulled the motor and trans. I’m planning on getting down to bare metal to figure out what panels I need to replace. What is the best/cheapest diy way? I had planned on starting with paint stripper and get off as much as possible and then sand down with 80 grit. After that so I need to seal/prime the bare metal to
Keep from Flash rusting. I probably won’t get much done at one time as it’s a weekend hobby.
 

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How many layers of paint does your car have? I wouldn’t use stripper myself, but if your going to, you can tape up the seams so it doesn’t get everywhere.
Do you have a big enough air compressor to run a DA? The safest way is to just sand down through the paint layers till you hit metal. You can buy rougher grit paper for a 6” DA, or even use a regular grinder with a 8” disc if you’re careful and stay away from the body lines.
You’re biggest issues is always rust, of course. There are several excellent build threads on here covering extensive rust repair, quarterpanels and even full floor board replacement. The under-structures on these cars weren’t painted hardly at all, and the rust in the cowl area, and around the windows can be a problem.
You will have to cover the bare metal with something, chassis paint is available from lots of different places. I personally use just plain old Rustolium a lot, the oil-based paints seem to “stick” well on about anything, and I really like phosphoric acid washes to treat the metal. You will probably get some other opinions on that. There are many professional grade products that work well, usually they’re a little more exspensive.
And always keep in mind, anything with hardener in it requires some some kind of a respirator, the fumes are hazardous.
 

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On my 72, it has been a pain grinding down original paint. 60 grit and up continuously get packed with paint and become useless. I am in the metal work stage. Patching and repairing. I'm sure there are better tools out there for removing paint. I just have not invested in them yet. I do not have a pneumatic DA and my electric doesn't get the job done. I am curios to the responses you get because I will be getting to that stage down the road and didn't want to wash the car in paint stripper.
 

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I’ve been using these same 8” grinding wheel for awhile, my grinder is a commercial model, it spins fast. The factory paint is usually kind of brittle and doesn’t clog up the disc bad. Enamel with no hardener can be gooey sometimes, when it gets heated up. I stripped this hood in about 5 minutes. 505C3992-B3F1-45A4-811B-D09FCECD81F8.jpeg
 

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The inner structure on my car had almost no paint on it. I treated the surface rust with a heavy coat of phosphoric acid, wiped it down and brushed on Rusty Metal paint on everything I could reach. Someday it is going to need a complete redo around the rear glass, probably.
 

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I’ve been using the “Gator” brand 4.5” stripping discs from my local big box store with decent results. I also use a lot of the small 2” stripping discs for my small angle die grinder. After that, it’s an assortment of wire wheel cups for both my 4.5” grinder and my pneumatic drill. I discovered that a knotted cup on my 4.5” devastates old bondo in short order. Don’t forget to wear a particle mask, hat, safety glasses and hearing protection. Especially the protection for face and body with the knotted wheels and cups, those things shoot metal darts regularly!

Admittedly, I haven’t yet tackled any of the “shiny side” panels. I’ve been working inside and under my car for the last 9 years. I can’t wait wait for the day I get to strip that damn yellow paint off though! Soon I hope.


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The inner structure on my car had almost no paint on it. I treated the surface rust with a heavy coat of phosphoric acid, wiped it down and brushed on Rusty Metal paint on everything I could reach. Someday it is going to need a complete redo around the rear glass, probably.
Both of my quarter panels look exactly like this right now. I bought some rustoleum professional galvanizing spray paint. I wire brushed as much of the surface rust as I could get and sprayed the galvanizing paint in there, against my better judgement. I did that about 7 years ago and that stuff is holding up excellent! Of course the car has been in my garage all that time but the overhead door is always open. Untreated metal will form surface rust without fail in my garage. I figured it was better than the zero treatment the factory gave it. Just thought I would mention that.


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My car has a few layers of old paint. Im afraid to use stripper and see all the bondo this car has. I can tell someone did a mud job on the car. when i removed the front fenders I can see the dried bondo thru the old trim holes. Thers a few spots that i couldn't avoid going down to bare metal. I used a flapper disc on my angle grinder. Took the paint off in seconds.

As far a primer. I was hoping i could use rattle can and no ot worrying if it will effect me get the car painted later
 

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I decided to have today a pro looking into my car and make me a quote for complete dry ice blasting
Man good luck. I hope you dont have tons of body work to do. I know if i went that route i would give up. I just want to get this car on the road.
 

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Everyone has an opinion on the “correct” way to do a repaint, I think each car owner’s situation is different. If you’re working on a high dollar car you are committed to, then of course it needs to blown apart and completely stripped to bare metal.
If you’re working on a tight budget, you need to be a little more creative. The most important thing, IMO, is to try to deal with the rust issues as best you can. And rust is always the biggest problem on these and any 45 year old car. In my case, I simply drowned all the seams with Phosphoric acid, and try to get some Rusty metal primer in place.
The actual topcoat is not that big of a deal to me, but I’m not going to be shooting an exspensive BC/CC paint. I’ll coat mine, eventually, with a basis single stage enamel.
Initially I’m going with a satin black, I’ll simply sand this and topcoat it down road.
 

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I decided to have today a pro looking into my car and make me a quote for complete dry ice blasting
He recommended only blasting the body and parts where rust is an issue. Parts like hood and trunklid to use a cheap paint remover, the one he is also using!

does work quit well but 2 turns needed.
405266

405267
 

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The hood and the trunk lid both have an underlying structure, you can’t really access the backside. How will he get the paint stripper cleaned out of there? I’m not criticizing your methods, just wondering.
 
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