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Discussion Starter #41
Have both of these sitting in a cart to be ordered to just make sure I have the right mounts instead of guessing if what’s on the motor works. Just waiting on a little larger order.




Now to figure out the other parts. Specifically the radiator and electric fuel pump to try and get a larger order.



For those of you with a 350 and in a 3rd gen? More specifically a 73’ custom. Is there a size you recommend? I’ve seen chatter about champion as well as some of the universal summit ones? Plan is to take off my current fan blade and buy a Taurus fan as has been done lots on here just trying to track down a Volvo relay and all but those aren’t common in my area so might have to find someone online selling them since local yards are a bust.


Next up is electronic fuel pump and wiring it up/where to mount/bracket, etc? Currently have a Holley red that was given with the motor. After reading I know I need to try to get it below the bottom of the tank, I know I need at least an 85 micron filter before the pump and a 10 after (any affordable recommendations?) My problem comes in to mounting and wiring, I’ve looked at online diagrams but does anyone offer a wiring kit? A bracket? Definitely want to be on the safer side and wire with some type of relay and not just to a hot ignition wire, etc.

Searching on here but seeing lots of in truck fuel cell types and not much stock tank stuff. Thanks in advance.


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Discussion Starter #42
Bumping this up so I’ll get back started on this thing. Never ordered the motor mounts or anything. Car is legit just sitting like this waiting for some love....



Going to order mounts for the frame and see if the ones on the block will work, if not I’ll order new one. Does anyone know what bolts the mounts take to bolt to frame? 5/16th grade 8?

Still need to figure out my fuel pump mounting and all of that as well as my fans and what not I mentioned a few posts up. Getting this thing finally in the car will jumpstart some motivation though.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Decided to drop the tank to make sure it was up to par/not rusty as well as check on the condition of the float. Wanted to do this before ordering stuff to get electric fuel pump installed so when putting the tank back in I could spend the afternoon just mounting everything.

Super surprised on how good of shape the tank was in, had a little bit of gas and water in it that I had to pour out. Opinions on float? Thinking of ordering a new one just because while everything is out,










Was hoping there would be a build sheet on top but no such luck!


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Great story and congratulations on getting "your" car back. The way it cleaned up speaks volumes on the paint job your father's old friend did. Restorations take time and money. However much money can be saved with patience and planning as to where you want to end up. Redoing and changing objective costing more money to replace stuff you already bought. Resale on parts is not profitable. Speaking from experience. Enjoy the build. Keep us posted on your progress and Good Luck. One day you'll be crusin with the radio loud and windows down. !!!!!
 

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IRT engine mounts this might help.
I don't remember the size bolts but there is a kit, with bolts and washers for both the engienside and frame side mounts. either at SS396 or classic.
Suggest you measure your big mounting bolts. I believe 73 and up with our style need a 4 1/2 " bolt, not the shorter one for 68-72.

hope this helps.
 

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Also remember to mount the frame mounts "fat side up" which means the end with the holes drilled wider go up towards the fender, narrow holes down
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Great story and congratulations on getting "your" car back. The way it cleaned up speaks volumes on the paint job your father's old friend did. Restorations take time and money. However much money can be saved with patience and planning as to where you want to end up. Redoing and changing objective costing more money to replace stuff you already bought. Resale on parts is not profitable. Speaking from experience. Enjoy the build. Keep us posted on your progress and Good Luck. One day you'll be crusin with the radio loud and windows down. !!!!!
Thanks for the kind words! He definitely did a good job painting it, was ecstatic with how well it polished back up. Agree with the patience and planning which is why I’ve not had much progress over the years but finally decided to “send it” and get stuff done! The drive train is the only thing that won’t be permanent, I one day want an LS but I’m happy getting it running and spending the money on current drivetrain while I upgrade everything else while enjoying it.

Those sending units/floats are pretty cheap. I would replace it while I had it out.
My thoughts exactly! Figured now was the best time and it would give me peace of mind.

IRT engine mounts this might help.
I don't remember the size bolts but there is a kit, with bolts and washers for both the engienside and frame side mounts. either at SS396 or classic.
Suggest you measure your big mounting bolts. I believe 73 and up with our style need a 4 1/2 " bolt, not the shorter one for 68-72.

hope this helps.
SS396 has the kits, found them the other night. $15 for 10 bolts and $16 to ship them, I’ll prob end up just pulling the trigger so I can get things moving.

Also remember to mount the frame mounts "fat side up" which means the end with the holes drilled wider go up towards the fender, narrow holes down
Definitely will stow away that little tid bit of knowledge, small thongs like that are invaluable as I’m not afraid to say I’m no expert and need all the info I can get. Lol.


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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Few questions:

Someone posted some headers in a thread saying I needed new ones, which I agree, my motor is from a 95-00 truck, when looking for headers that fit my car, does this make a difference or should I just be looking for something that fits a 73’ Nova with a 350? I see lots of people in a 73-74’ Nova FB group using 2451HKR Hooker headers.

Also, putting together the stuff I’ll need to get my fuel system working. Going to get a new float and all but mainly need input on connections/filters for the electronic fuel pump. It’s recommended a 100 micron before the pump and 40 after I believe? What other connections/pieces do I need for the puzzle? Recommendations? Might drive over to Summit store tomorrow and look around on my day off.

Fuel pump I’m using....



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Vortec heads have the same exhaust mounting arrangement as earlier non-Vortec heads, so you can and should get headers designed for your car. Headers for '68-'74 Nova with a small block that were properly designed for clearance with the AC box should fit. When I had a small block in my '70 w/ AC, I used Dynomax ceramic coated headers, but I don't think they are sold anymore. Full length headers are ideal for power, but a shorty header will provide more ground clearance if you plan to lower the car a lot. I highly recommend ceramic coating because the header primaries will be very close to the AC box and you don't want it damaging the fiberglass or reheating the AC air. They also look better and hold up better over time.

In my experience, it's easiest to install headers from under the car with the car lifted very high. I use large 6 ton jack stands to get the car high off the ground, which gives more room to angle the flange of the header up and into the space, carefully snaking it over the power steering box on the driver's side. Some headers are impossible to install without removing the power steering box. It really depends on how the primary tubes are routed and the exact positioning of the engine.

With regards to the fuel pump and filters, yes a 100 micron before and 40 micron after the pump is a good way to keep the pump alive and prevent garbage from getting up to the carburetor. Holley has some diagrams in their instructions that you could follow. https://documents.holley.com/199r7914-3rev6.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Vortec heads have the same exhaust mounting arrangement as earlier non-Vortec heads, so you can and should get headers designed for your car. Headers for '68-'74 Nova with a small block that were properly designed for clearance with the AC box should fit. When I had a small block in my '70 w/ AC, I used Dynomax ceramic coated headers, but I don't think they are sold anymore. Full length headers are ideal for power, but a shorty header will provide more ground clearance if you plan to lower the car a lot. I highly recommend ceramic coating because the header primaries will be very close to the AC box and you don't want it damaging the fiberglass or reheating the AC air. They also look better and hold up better over time.

In my experience, it's easiest to install headers from under the car with the car lifted very high. I use large 6 ton jack stands to get the car high off the ground, which gives more room to angle the flange of the header up and into the space, carefully snaking it over the power steering box on the driver's side. Some headers are impossible to install without removing the power steering box. It really depends on how the primary tubes are routed and the exact positioning of the engine.

With regards to the fuel pump and filters, yes a 100 micron before and 40 micron after the pump is a good way to keep the pump alive and prevent garbage from getting up to the carburetor. Holley has some diagrams in their instructions that you could follow. https://documents.holley.com/199r7914-3rev6.pdf
Exactly some of the information I was looking for. This helps greatly for sure! Was going to buy the headers first and try to get everything on the motor but have decided to get everything and get it mounted then order and install headers as you have mentioned. I also have some spare wood that I plan on using to make those wheel stands as you did that’ll help with the header install and all!

I’ll for sure look for a decent price pair of ceramic shorty headers as I def don’t want it affecting the a/c and lowering is in the future and I don’t plan on trying to squeeze every ounce of performance out of this setup.

Thanks for that diagram, I must have overlooked it but have it saved now. Just need to decide what filters to use and get to buying those and the parts to power everything,


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Discussion Starter #53
Look for a "mid length" header rather than a "shorty". For example, Hedman 66609.

I don't think I've posted anything on SNS about my wheel cribs. I'll be sure to post some place handy so you have a reference.
EDIT Thread here: DIY Wood Wheel Cribs / Car Stands
Gotcha! Mid length was what I was thinking, whoops! Definitely will end up with some of those stands, buddy use to use them on his 98’ camaro and they were life savers!


Finally made an order, took advantage of classic industries 20% off and free shipping.









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