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the floor pans on my nova hatchback r rusted out an i am in search of new floor pans hopefully aluminum but i dnt mind. i just cant find one for my year model an sub-model PLZ HELP thanks :eek:
 

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Re: floor pans

Hey I have a 73 Nova SS hatchback, I was just wondering what floor pans you need? I hope you don't need the trunk pan because I cannot find them anywhere, as long as the spare tire part isn't rotten then you will be able to use a regular replacement trunk pan and cut it to fit. I recently came in contact with an antique chevy parts company and they are now gettting in alot of replacement parts for the 73 hatchbacks. These guys are great to deal with but they are located in Canada..Here's their information:

Antique Chevrolet Parts
1438 Wallace Road
Oakville, Ontario
L6L 2Y2

Tel (905) 827-3162
Order: 1-866-767-2787
Fax: (905) 827-8893
www.antiquechev.com
[email protected]

Hope this helps!
 

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Floor Pans & Other Parts

The floor pans,front and back are the same as 68-72 models,and are available,the trunk pans are the same from 73-79,two and four door,currently not available in the aftermarket.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the help that will give me more options now i appreciate the info.:jumping:
 

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I have recently have started restoring my 74 "SS" and I found this information after alot of searching and digging(before I was introduced to this site) that from the rear floor pans foreward on all 68-74 nova's are the same. You can install the 68-72 trunk pan, as long as you change the pan,tank,tank straps and tank brackets.I had to purchase these items to replace one of my 74 trunk pans.The 73-79 Nova,Omega,Ventura,and ApolloTrunk pans are the same,2 and 4 door.Hope this info is also helpful.
 

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73/74 hatchback trunk pan vs coupe pan

I'm in need of a trunk pan for a 73 hatchback and found someone that was parting out a coupe, he says that the trunk pan in the coupe is the same as the hatchback and has one available.

Can anyone confirm that these two trunk pans are the same?
 

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I'm in need of a trunk pan for a 73 hatchback and found someone that was parting out a coupe, he says that the trunk pan in the coupe is the same as the hatchback and has one available.

Can anyone confirm that these two trunk pans are the same?
They should be if they are the same years BUT you will need the false floor supports, the false floor hinge support, and some other small things off of your original hatchback floor.

Depending on how bad things are on yours, if someone else is cutting it out, get as much of the floor as you can. On a hatchback project of mine I got a donor floor and to minimize the work, I had the donor floor going past the width of the frame rails, almost to the taillight panel and then on the flat section above the rear axle. On my donor, I ground off the welds on the donor floors frame rails so I did not damage the floor, then had it acid dipped to make sure it was solid. I then knew the new donor floor would be past the outside edges of the frame rails so I made my front to rear cuts in the middle of the frame rails on the topside of the junk floor and then planned out my other cuts to minimize bodywork. On the butt welds above the rear frame rails I only had to address the topside welds but on the other butt welds going left to right I placed them to where I could do some hammer and dolly work and then also do body filler work to where the repair is now invisible from the topside and the underside.
I did find out on mine I had to mock up the false floor so I could get the front hinge in the correct spot as well as having the side floor panels in so the supports going down to the floor could be positioned correctly.

Some pictures in the below album show some of the hatchback work on mine as well as another persons hatch floor work (I kept an original type on mine while the other person used a 72 couple flat floor and on that one, they had to go with a different gas tank, sender, and probably a few more things that added to the amount of work):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157651221728907

Jim
 

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They should be if they are the same years BUT you will need the false floor supports, the false floor hinge support, and some other small things off of your original hatchback floor.

Depending on how bad things are on yours, if someone else is cutting it out, get as much of the floor as you can. On a hatchback project of mine I got a donor floor and to minimize the work, I had the donor floor going past the width of the frame rails, almost to the taillight panel and then on the flat section above the rear axle. On my donor, I ground off the welds on the donor floors frame rails so I did not damage the floor, then had it acid dipped to make sure it was solid. I then knew the new donor floor would be past the outside edges of the frame rails so I made my front to rear cuts in the middle of the frame rails on the topside of the junk floor and then planned out my other cuts to minimize bodywork. On the butt welds above the rear frame rails I only had to address the topside welds but on the other butt welds going left to right I placed them to where I could do some hammer and dolly work and then also do body filler work to where the repair is now invisible from the topside and the underside.
I did find out on mine I had to mock up the false floor so I could get the front hinge in the correct spot as well as having the side floor panels in so the supports going down to the floor could be positioned correctly.

Some pictures in the below album show some of the hatchback work on mine as well as another persons hatch floor work (I kept an original type on mine while the other person used a 72 couple flat floor and on that one, they had to go with a different gas tank, sender, and probably a few more things that added to the amount of work):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157651221728907

Jim
Thanks for all the info Custom Jim, do you know if any company is selling that metal or would I want to complete my purchase through craigslist with someone selling the metal from a donor car?
 

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Thanks for all the info Custom Jim, do you know if any company is selling that metal or would I want to complete my purchase through craigslist with someone selling the metal from a donor car?
I think the only source for the trunk/hatch floor is off of a donor car. Who knows, maybe try contacting some of the reproduction metal companies and see if they are tooling up for making one. I know years ago, I never thought they would make the taillight panel so I bought two NOS ones only to have a few months pass and they were being made by an aftermarket company.

If you can, try and inspect the section you need so it's solid. I needed an inner roof section on my hatchback and found a donor car in a salvage yard and marked the section I needed which was actually more than really did need and when I came back to get the cutout section,they had even cut it out even further past my marks which was fine with me.

Jim
 

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So I found a lid from a donor car, took it to a body shop for paint/mounting, on another thread I posted how they didn't know squat about installing the rear glass so I just went to their shop on Friday and picked up the lid without letting them even mount it as I lost total faith in their ability to do any additional work.

I'm thinking about mounting it myself and then getting an old school glass guy to come to my house to swap out the glass. Can anyone help me as to the best method on swapping out the lid?

Looks pretty easy, just two pins and the nuts that hold the strut supports in place.

Would anyone have any advice before I start this? Unhook the struts first/last? How do I remove the pins? Just tap them out with a hammer?

Here is a pic of the lid, the paint job did come out nice, it's just really dusty since the pic was taken after it was sitting in their shop for a couple weeks.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 

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So I found a lid from a donor car, took it to a body shop for paint/mounting, on another thread I posted how they didn't know squat about installing the rear glass so I just went to their shop on Friday and picked up the lid without letting them even mount it as I lost total faith in their ability to do any additional work.

I'm thinking about mounting it myself and then getting an old school glass guy to come to my house to swap out the glass. Can anyone help me as to the best method on swapping out the lid?

Looks pretty easy, just two pins and the nuts that hold the strut supports in place.

Would anyone have any advice before I start this? Unhook the struts first/last? How do I remove the pins? Just tap them out with a hammer?

Here is a pic of the lid, the paint job did come out nice, it's just really dusty since the pic was taken after it was sitting in their shop for a couple weeks.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
On the hatchlid there are hinge pin retainer clips that MUST be removed before the pins are extracted. It's a tight fit in that area but it seems to me I used a small flat blade screwdriver to open the clip up some so it will clear the machined down portion of the pin and can then be slid off and it might take a second screwdriver to do this. You have to be careful not to break the clip as it will need to be reused.

Once the clips are off, with the hatchlid open measure off of the floor to the hatch latch and then cut a 2x4 to fit this area as you will then need this in place to hold the hatchlid up while the shocks get unbolted.

Once you have the lid open, you will have to drive the pins out and with the area being tight you might have to make up a special tool to tap them out BUT be careful as the pin has to be driven out square as the pins are a lot smaller in diameter than the door hinge pins AND no one makes replacement pins. You may find out either the hinge and/or the pins may have wear grooves in them so you may have to wiggle the hatchlid some while tapping on the pins to remove them. Once you get one almost all of the way out, leave it partially in while you work on the other side. Once both pins can be easily removed with some needle nose pliers, one person might have to be holding the lid to keep it from getting away from you. It normally is a two person deal just like a hood removal or installation.

On my 74, I removed the body side portion of the hinge to modify it and allow adjustment of my hatchlid and with welded on hinges, your new lid may or may not line up properly.

I'll see what pictures I have on the hatchlid work I did on my 74 but I'm calling it for the night. I just got back from JD Blackfoot's final concert and he put on almost a 4 hour show.

Jim
 

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Thanks Jim, I'll check back tomorrow. While I think I can handle the swap after reading your instructions, I'd need a body shop to handle that welding job as my skill set is not that advanced.

But I do look forward to looking at the pics that I might need to share with my next body shop if the lid doesn't line up.

I think I got very lucky as the person that removed this new lid from the previous car actually cut the hinge off the car, leaving the pins still attached to the lid that I just had painted.(I've attached a pic).

So I was able to pull the clip off, but tried to knock the pin out and it's in there pretty solid, perhaps corroded to the inner sleeve as when I spin it, the sleeve moves with it? Too late here in CA to keep working on it tonight.

One thing I also noticed, while one pin was very straight, the other one is bent a little but at least I have extra pins when you count the ones that are still currently holding my rusty lid on the car.
 

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Thanks Jim, I'll check back tomorrow. While I think I can handle the swap after reading your instructions, I'd need a body shop to handle that welding job as my skill set is not that advanced.

But I do look forward to looking at the pics that I might need to share with my next body shop if the lid doesn't line up.

I think I got very lucky as the person that removed this new lid from the previous car actually cut the hinge off the car, leaving the pins still attached to the lid that I just had painted.(I've attached a pic).

So I was able to pull the clip off, but tried to knock the pin out and it's in there pretty solid, perhaps corroded to the inner sleeve as when I spin it, the sleeve moves with it? Too late here in CA to keep working on it tonight.

One thing I also noticed, while one pin was very straight, the other one is bent a little but at least I have extra pins when you count the ones that are still currently holding my rusty lid on the car.
Here is a drawing I made back in 2003 on the hinge pin retainer clips and how opening them up allows them to be slid off of the pin.



Here is a round stock bar that was straight but if slightly bent you can then tap on the end of the hinge pin to get it out.







Here is a drawing I made of modifying the body side portion of the hinges to where the studs now go through holes in the weatherstrip channel and then inside the car, washers and nuts can be run onto the studs to hold the lid in position. By having the holes larger than needed, it allows for the hatchlid to be shifted to the left or right or forward or backwards in the opening.



The underside of the hinge area where the studs come through with the washers and nuts in place. On mine, once I got the hatchlid perfectly aligned, I tack welded the washers in place and now I can take the hatchlid on and off and it's perfectly aligned every time and I do not have to fight removing the hinge pins and retainer clips.







Jim
 

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Wow, thanks Jim! I'll be sharing this with the body shop, but for the lid that I haven't mounted yet, I did get the clip off but just can't seem to tap the pin out. Should the middle sleeve move as I move the pin around? seems like I need to break it free but didn't want to mess up the pin by hitting it too hard.
 

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Wow, thanks Jim! I'll be sharing this with the body shop, but for the lid that I haven't mounted yet, I did get the clip off but just can't seem to tap the pin out. Should the middle sleeve move as I move the pin around? seems like I need to break it free but didn't want to mess up the pin by hitting it too hard.
The pin may be frozen in one or more of the holes it passes through.

Here are some hatchback NOS body side hinges I have and you can see how the holes are flared out so there is more contact with the pin so it doesn't wear out too quickly.



Sometimes I have applied heat to parts to try and break things free and even used things like a cutoff wheel or hacksaw to cut away metal to free things up. You will just have to look at things and come up with a plan and how to limit damage on things you need to keep pristine.

If you do get the pin out and it's slightly bent, clamp it into a smooth jaw vise and tighten the vise, then rotate the pin and tighten the vise again and this should straighten it. You just cannot use a regular vise with the jaws that have knurls in them. The jaws must be smooth as to not to damage the pins surface.

Jim
 

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Thanks Jim, I'll give that a try, all great info! I just noticed that this string started out about a trunk floor pan, then I switched it over to the hatch lid.

Getting it back on track, I did purchase a hatchback trunk floor pan from a guy that is consistently parting out 73/74 Nova's in Pico Rivera, CA., I found him on Craigslist but he said that he only sells to local people that can pick up at his location, he usually doesn't get into shipping parts to anyone.

Now I just need to get it installed.
 

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