They should be if they are the same years BUT you will need the false floor supports, the false floor hinge support, and some other small things off of your original hatchback floor.I'm in need of a trunk pan for a 73 hatchback and found someone that was parting out a coupe, he says that the trunk pan in the coupe is the same as the hatchback and has one available.
Can anyone confirm that these two trunk pans are the same?
Thanks for all the info Custom Jim, do you know if any company is selling that metal or would I want to complete my purchase through craigslist with someone selling the metal from a donor car?They should be if they are the same years BUT you will need the false floor supports, the false floor hinge support, and some other small things off of your original hatchback floor.
Depending on how bad things are on yours, if someone else is cutting it out, get as much of the floor as you can. On a hatchback project of mine I got a donor floor and to minimize the work, I had the donor floor going past the width of the frame rails, almost to the taillight panel and then on the flat section above the rear axle. On my donor, I ground off the welds on the donor floors frame rails so I did not damage the floor, then had it acid dipped to make sure it was solid. I then knew the new donor floor would be past the outside edges of the frame rails so I made my front to rear cuts in the middle of the frame rails on the topside of the junk floor and then planned out my other cuts to minimize bodywork. On the butt welds above the rear frame rails I only had to address the topside welds but on the other butt welds going left to right I placed them to where I could do some hammer and dolly work and then also do body filler work to where the repair is now invisible from the topside and the underside.
I did find out on mine I had to mock up the false floor so I could get the front hinge in the correct spot as well as having the side floor panels in so the supports going down to the floor could be positioned correctly.
Some pictures in the below album show some of the hatchback work on mine as well as another persons hatch floor work (I kept an original type on mine while the other person used a 72 couple flat floor and on that one, they had to go with a different gas tank, sender, and probably a few more things that added to the amount of work):
I think the only source for the trunk/hatch floor is off of a donor car. Who knows, maybe try contacting some of the reproduction metal companies and see if they are tooling up for making one. I know years ago, I never thought they would make the taillight panel so I bought two NOS ones only to have a few months pass and they were being made by an aftermarket company.Thanks for all the info Custom Jim, do you know if any company is selling that metal or would I want to complete my purchase through craigslist with someone selling the metal from a donor car?
On the hatchlid there are hinge pin retainer clips that MUST be removed before the pins are extracted. It's a tight fit in that area but it seems to me I used a small flat blade screwdriver to open the clip up some so it will clear the machined down portion of the pin and can then be slid off and it might take a second screwdriver to do this. You have to be careful not to break the clip as it will need to be reused.So I found a lid from a donor car, took it to a body shop for paint/mounting, on another thread I posted how they didn't know squat about installing the rear glass so I just went to their shop on Friday and picked up the lid without letting them even mount it as I lost total faith in their ability to do any additional work.
I'm thinking about mounting it myself and then getting an old school glass guy to come to my house to swap out the glass. Can anyone help me as to the best method on swapping out the lid?
Looks pretty easy, just two pins and the nuts that hold the strut supports in place.
Would anyone have any advice before I start this? Unhook the struts first/last? How do I remove the pins? Just tap them out with a hammer?
Here is a pic of the lid, the paint job did come out nice, it's just really dusty since the pic was taken after it was sitting in their shop for a couple weeks.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Here is a drawing I made back in 2003 on the hinge pin retainer clips and how opening them up allows them to be slid off of the pin.Thanks Jim, I'll check back tomorrow. While I think I can handle the swap after reading your instructions, I'd need a body shop to handle that welding job as my skill set is not that advanced.
But I do look forward to looking at the pics that I might need to share with my next body shop if the lid doesn't line up.
I think I got very lucky as the person that removed this new lid from the previous car actually cut the hinge off the car, leaving the pins still attached to the lid that I just had painted.(I've attached a pic).
So I was able to pull the clip off, but tried to knock the pin out and it's in there pretty solid, perhaps corroded to the inner sleeve as when I spin it, the sleeve moves with it? Too late here in CA to keep working on it tonight.
One thing I also noticed, while one pin was very straight, the other one is bent a little but at least I have extra pins when you count the ones that are still currently holding my rusty lid on the car.
The pin may be frozen in one or more of the holes it passes through.Wow, thanks Jim! I'll be sharing this with the body shop, but for the lid that I haven't mounted yet, I did get the clip off but just can't seem to tap the pin out. Should the middle sleeve move as I move the pin around? seems like I need to break it free but didn't want to mess up the pin by hitting it too hard.