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Discussion Starter #161
Bell housing kit arrived yesterday. I compared it to the one I have now. Dimensions measure the same, dowl pin holes might be a slight bit wider on the new one. I also discovered the new ( car) B/H does not have the mou ting hole threaded boss that the truck one does. this is where I had my clutch z bar mounted so I will have to figure out another way to mount it.

First I will place the new B/H on the engine and see if it fits or teter totters....

I should have 3-4 hours to work on it tonight.

Pics next week
 

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Discussion Starter #162 (Edited)
New Bell housing not fit/other fun

the new Bell housing I ordered wont fit. At first I thought something is up with the dowels, but they are fine. the B/H would go on the clutch side but I could not get it to go on the starter side...HMMM. careful inspection around the headers I saw that the B/H was hitting the starter...... So per the photos, My starter is "to big" for the new B/H.

My "old" B/H came out of a truck, by luck from a pile in the junkyard( Prev Owner) ...well, so did the reman engine... hence the ginormous starter....I guess.

Well, I'm baffled. I had already cleaned dup the dowel pins and mating surfaces, so I took the OLD B/H and placed it in starter side first and it went in nice and easy. Now I realize part of the "problem" is that the B/H mounts to the engine , and not the starter boss. It would tetter when pressed at the bottom cause it could . Once bolted in its fine, because its mounted to the engine not the starter mount boss. . So I used the nice bolts that came in the B/H kit( SS396) to bolt it in. This was Saturday and called SS396 and got an RMA to send the B/H back. I have to call them again cause I gotta return the dust cover to...

OK so now the tranny should go in right? well I had other stuff to do and wanted two people under my car casue I don't want to take a chance it hangs from the mainshaft. So went to work on other stuff.

In the picture you can see how the "new " B/H fits inside the OLD one but the old one does not fit in the new one..illustrating how the new one is smaller.

Side by side on the floor you can also tell...if you look hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #163
I went to the hardware store and bought some 10-24 screws and washers and nyloc nuts. I drilled out the antenna mounting holes in the cowl panel just enough so the machine screws would fit. then I applied some black sealant to all surfaces and put the antenna back in and pushed the screws in. next I placed my cordless drill with screwdriver bit into the Philips slot and positioned it so It would hold the D/S screw. I put the fabricated bracket in place and got the first nyloc to go o ok. as I started tightening it the screw gun fell off. After three trips from under the dash I got it tight. the other screw was harder, I dropped the nuts a bunch of times. and could not find them..in the dash.. finally got it all mounted securely. thenI put the cowling vent back on and the windshield wipers...Man Its starting to look like a car again.

I installed the Radiator:
I bought xtra new rubber mounts, from different sources, NONE of which actually fit the bottom. with some cutting I got them nice an tight on the bottom.
I also bought OEM style hose clamps....but they bottom out and I'm not 100% they gonna be tight enough.. I spilled some fluid so not sure if the fluid on the floor was from that or the bottom radiator outlet hose. I washed it down and will check tonight. Still when it runs IDK if I will trust them.
Ill be getting some quality hose clamps from auto store to have...as the Harbor fright ones I have absolutely suck
 

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Discussion Starter #164 (Edited)
Yesterday the tranny went in. I ended up drawing it in the last 1/2" with the bolts, nice and even , nice and easy, and in she went.
I think the issue was that I slapped some grease in the pilot bushing and t was making a seal and the air could not escape...That's my present theory and I am moving on.

Once mounted secure I continued used the deadman we were using to support it it and raised it up a bit and the cross member went right in. Amazing....simple and much better than beating the snot out of the cross member.

Then we raised it up a bit more and slid the tranny tail mount in just like we knew what we were doing.

Wow! I can see parts of my workbench.

Next up I will put the bolts in the cross member to subframe mount, then work on the linkages, clutch and shifter.
then put in the driveshaft and the battery in it and fire it up, go for a drive...
 

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You know that starters are different for automatic vs standard trans, I ran into problem when converting from auto to 4 speed. My starter wouldn't fit so went auto parts and got new starter. Evidently the nose of starter is different. The auto parts said he thought everyone knew that, well everyone but me.
 

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Discussion Starter #166 (Edited)
You and me apparently.....LOL, Or I just don't remember.

Lucky for me: The truck B/H fits around the starter nose .
And the starter works.
When It fails, I'll pull the headers ( they must be for a Manual tranny as the P/S hits the starter, and have to be removed to get the starter mount bolt out......Your info is actually answering a lot of other questions I have ben wondering about) and put a smaller starter and replace the headers.

So.....Double thanks!

One day Ill probably go to a turbo 350, Hopefully I will remember this info when that day comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #167 (Edited)
Its alive again

In between other projects this weekend I, with some help, put the rest of the transmission and radiator overflow hose/ battery together.
Note on the radiator overflow tube: I needed a longer hose because the radiator was narrowed to the correct width which made the old tube too short. So I took a section with me and stopped at the auto parts store. After I looked around I asked for some help. the counter person claimed he never heard of it, and he's been working in the field for ten years. with permission, I went behind the counter and looked threw there stuff, eventually I found a 2' section in a package, actually two of different sizes. The label stated " coolant overflow hose, 3/8""etc. I told him he needed to order some more as I took the last package. I know this stuff happens a lot when we go to get SBC etc parts that aren't original, but this? It took me 25 minutes to find the hose that took me 3 minutes to put on. He was pretty cool about it and thank me for the info...good attitude.
done bitcherating for now.

I put together the clutch linkage the shift linkage etc.

The clutch adjustment was particularly annoying:
I followed the chevy repair manual, and when I did I had 4" of free travel in the clutch lever vice the 7/8"-1 1/4" spec.
I lengthened the rod until I had proper free travel, It seems like the T/O bearing may be on the clutch fingers. I put my snake camera up in there and I can't tell for sure. There is a bit of slack mechanically. There is supposed to be .250"gap between the T/O bearing and the clutch fingers.....I realize now I may have ben able to set this up BEFORE I put the tranny in. DUH

I put the linkage back together, set the stops and the back up switch, installed the Drive shaft, put the battery in the NEW and properly located tray.

Fired it up on the lift. No bad noises in neutral. clutch felt good, first, second, and Reverse all worked with no grinding no problems. No roll/ creep in N or in gear with clutch pushed in.

Backed it out of the garage drove around the field. Stopped in driveway.

Da book says to put car in first with wheels stopped and at idle, warm engine. ( not really warm yet but I wanted to check this ASAP), push clutch to floor, let up 1" then wait 9 seconds ( I think) then shift from 1st to Reverse. there should be no Noise no resistance, etc. Amazing...smooth as silk. this is wicked cool, like I love my car again.

SO I went for a drive, taking it easy at first, no issues. I coasted down hill with in third and it didn't pop out of gear like it used to. Shifting threw the gears no issues. I got on it few times and she pulled hard with no clutch slip. I downshifted without revving engine and she went right in and stayed in.

Once warmed up I went out on the highway and shifted at 5k, 5500, and 5800 with no issues. At 80 mph I realize I probably should have checked the air in the tires...left rear pulling a bit. ( found it at 24 PSI)

I still have this annoying rattle when the engine is warm, only when the clutch is engaged. It may be the T/O bearing fork is at such an angle that the T/O bearing is bouncing on the tranny input shaft housing. It may be the loose front wheel center caps we found after the ride... The fork does have the rubber boot on it. The Angles of the Z bar etc. are not exact, but they are not far off either. I may try to temporarily put a spring on the fork to pull up or down to see if changing the angle at rest effects the noise.

Then again it may be a rocker (pressed in) stud. I doubt that as it does no effect on performance.

No pictures right now as everything went well.

I was very methodical and did one step at a time. This has been kicking my butt for ten months so I was starting to wonder if I was doing something wrong, doubting my sanity.
90% would have ben avoided if MR GM would have had the tranny rebuilt like I suggested last December.

Ill be driving it this week, might even go to one of the local car hangouts. There is one every nightof the work week here.
 

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Even though the car has some annoyances...drive it for a little bit. It truly helps keep sanity. Especially when you've been knee deep in projects and haven't had it running for a bit.

Also parts stores are getting pretty damn annoying lately. Went to an Autozone the other night and they didn't have a single oil filter for a 350 sbc??? I asked and the guys at the counter and they were just as surprised. I originally had the idea to build my car so I could still find over the counter parts for consumables if needed...looks like those days are closing sooner than later. All I'm saying is, I feel the pain of that 25 min part search.
 

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Discussion Starter #169 (Edited)
away we go

Ben busy lately: my first grandchild came five weeks early, 4lbs 15 oz, she's fine moms fine. so tiny. She is So......Perfect. Two more coming, one in few/3 weeks and another in Feb.

This weekend I was able to catch up on a few items. Its good to work at a moderate pace and chill. I installed the flywheel dustcover with shiny new bolts from SS396, locked the clutch bar adjustment down ( opps forgot to do that....I honestly thought I would be adjusting it more), and put the shifter dust boot and shiney ring on. Probably gonna have to do that again soon as I am looking at another shifter....LOL
I noticed about 5 times in the last month or so while under the car doing other things that the R/F caliper brake line was twisted and I finally remembered to take it off and untwist and put back on.

I fired it up ( pump it once and turn the key) and drove it over to my friends house, about 20 miles away.

Got a big thumbs up from a kid in an SUV... cool!

Runs great, shifts like butter! at about 60+ it vibrates some, I feel it everywhere. I pushed the clutch in and the vibration did not go away. So I think it may be bent tire cords from sitting so long.

She goes good straight, pulls hard all the way to 100 (KM/hour, you believ me right?) or so ( closed track of coarse) but turning is a bit dicey, between the high ratio steering box and the narrow stock steering wheel its a bit touchy. It doesn't feel unsafe, I just need to get used to it and remember its 44 years old..and the design even older. The entire steering and suspension is new/ refurbished. It does not push to any one side or show any sign of an alignment issue.

Now this annoying metallic clicking/ tapping has to go. I gotta figure it out:
If the T/O bearing is on the clutch fingers, that's bad. I really don't want to pull the tranny again...ever. If its bouncing off the input shaft housing then that's not so bad but still wrong. My Zbar geometry isn't perfect, so maybe the clutch fork is resting at an angle that allows the T/O bearing to ride on the input shaft housing. I have the rubber boot on the fork. I think I may put a lite spring on the fork and pull up or down and see if it has any effect on the issue.

While out and about I took my buddy Jim for a ride to the Auto parts store. Took THE LONG WAY HOME.

He last rode in the car before I owned it, and he was amazed at all the progress. mostly the lack of noise, rattles and how well it steers other than the one clatter, of coarse. awesome

Banged second a few times, love the posi rear. Launched from a lite, got the tires rolling in first (leaf springs only) sideways a bit in second and a solid hit in third.

As is our custom, I left about 40 feet of rubber then another fifteen or so in second and a lot of smoke when I left this house.

Smells so good.

Yes I know I'm supposed to wait until the clutch has 500 miles on it, etc. and I said I don't want to pull the tranny again........Its ben a long time since I smiled like that and laughed so hard. I felt young again!

I have done a lot of exciting things of this nature in my 08 Charger...but that's new school. And an automatic.

I took a couple of pictures of the speaker bracket holder fab installed, I realize it not exactly exciting without the bracket and speaker, but ..hey it progress. and you all like pictures or you don't read anything...lol I don't know when the stereo will go in...depends on when it goes to the body shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #170 (Edited)
Yesterday was nice fall day, about 55 deg. I took the morning off and drove the Nova to the folks I have ben talking to about interior and body work.

I had some occasional grinding when shifting into third, I finally figured out that I was letting the clutch out before it was all the way in. Its the longest throw and I have to lean forward a bit..as the seat is bent slightly:

I drove to the upholstery shop to see Gil about a headliner, bent seat, missing headrests( prev owner threw them away, with the channel in the bench seat), rear seat mount, correct carpet etc on the fold down seat.

He wasn't in yet so I drove over to se Doug, for bodywork/ paint. He got me in contact with Mark, who does bodywork, with the plan being mark does bodywork, then to Doug for paint. left Mark a msg.

Drove back to Gils, went over everything he gave me source for headrests.
I have an apt on the 19th for all the work we agreed to. I need ot get the headrests ASAP, probably E-bay. I called desert kings yesterday waiting on a call back.

I watched my gas gauge head towards E which I needed o do to get the old gas out, stopped and put 3/4 tank in it. Ill run that down and fill it. I had a few backfires when I first fired it up, nothing since but the gas is 6 months old...Yes I put preservative in it.

Made arrangements to meet Mark later in the day.

Made my day. he works from a big shop behind his home out in the woods.

My biggest concerns were I didn't want the car sitting outside all winter, and I didn't want it in the body shop for ever. I have heard and read here about that happening. It will live in his shop and he will knock it out.

We went over a lot, he explained the hows and whys....I now have plan. although it wont be until late winter / early spring, which is fine after all. I wanted the car done by spring, but gee life doesn't work that way.

So this winter, once I don't want to drive the car in the nasty I will:

Replace the body mount bushings. they are OK but they do effect fender alignment etc...I remember reading here that the 73 front mounts are a different thickness than prev years so I will pay particular attention to that.
( thanks guys!).

I ll do a few other things as well.

I will contact him in Jan and get a firm start date. He wants the car basically stripped, so I will go see Doug and ask him how to remove the shiney stuff without destroying it.

Jan/ Feb/ Mar? I' ll put the "new hood" on, strip all the chrome, rear bumper, interior, door skins, all the interior plastic side panels etc. Leaving only enough interior to drive it.

Then I will drive it to a place for media blast of the top and sides and the cowling and hood. ( 1/4s and fenders are being replaced).
Then drive it to Marks and pull the battery and front seat. I will bring him sheet metal ( that I already have) as he needs it.

when he is done he will trailer the car to Doug for paint. This s the tricky part as Doug is busy.
Again my concern is I don 't want the car sitting outside for months.

well that's the plan for now....
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Current events

Also on my mind is the dam rattle that I am convinced is the T/O bearing bouncing of the Tranny in put shaft.

I've noticed a vibration, and I feel it everywhere, above 50 MPH it starts getting noticeable.

T/O bearing:
I simply have not ben able to get a good look in the T/O bearing to ensure I have clearance, but the noise goes way if I press on the T/O bearing. I've looked at the angle of the Z-bar the spring etc. lots of ideas no answers. I think the TOB is riding on the side closest to the fork. I noticed a slight wear mark on the tranny shaft there.
SO I took a throttle return spring and hooked it to the fork and a screw protrusion thru the firewall, not as a fix, but to see if it changed anything. I went for a ride and it did seem less however it only does it when the engine is up to at least 140, and I ran out of time. I'll drive the car more and see. If nothing definitive, I will try to figure out a way to pull down vice up, that would actually lift the TOB off of the shaft if that's what the noise is. ( the fork pivot ball reverses the motion on the other side).

I can also swap the clutch arm rubber stopper in the dash with the half thick one I made and rea align the clutch linkage / clearance. hate to do that its perfect right now.

Here's a pic of the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #172 (Edited)
Vibration

I noticed the vibration and it gets worse with speed, and upon deceleration.

I pressed the clutch in a few times at speed , and coasted in N to see if there was a difference in /out of gear at 60 mph, nope. SO I figured it has to be the driveline.
Universals are new....Meanwhile My transmission yoke is eating the new seal. I ordered a new yoke as the old one has some grooves in it near where the seal runs. .
I figured out later that the PO got the yoke from a junkyard, when he went from a Muncie M-21? not sure. ( 27 spline) to the T-10, (32 Spline).
It has CAM 786 stamped on it. That PN did not show up in my research.
I ordered the correct Yoke for my car and tranny.
I took measurements, first I went online t see what A, B , C would be so I could label mine correctly.
SEE photo one.
It fits except for the universal joint holes are much smaller than what I have in the CAM 786 and the CAM is wider a the universal joints, the A and B dimensions.

While I had the D/S out I also checked the rear. New universal but I could move it some . the steps in the DIFF yoke didn't hold it tight and the straps, even with the bolts tight, were loose, with a bit of a gap showing.

I shimmed the straps with some aluminum flashing strips I cut. I placed them where the caps contact the caps and put it back together and went on same test ride as above for the clutch. I was checking both at the same time.

And my wife says I can't multitask!

Less vibration tells me I am on the right track. Again the shims are is not a fix, just trying to figure out what is wrong.
After measuring and researching, today I went to NAPA at lunch and got two new universals (1310), and a strap kit. I will be able to use my new yoke which will stop the transmission output shaft leak. That's a lot of work to end up at the stock universals.
During all this ( you ARE getting the readers digest version), My friend told me the CAM 786 came out of a truck, that's why it has a step universal in it now. I really wish the PO would have gotten less truck stuff and stayed away from the junkyard.

The strap kit may stop the slop, however while I have the D/S out ( for the three thousandth time), I will measure the distance between the steps that hold the universal in place on the Diff yoke. If its not correct....New yoke and seal. already have the kit PN saved.........somewhere.

Pics 2 and 3 show the difference between the two yokes. al other dimensions were the same
 

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Discussion Starter #173 (Edited)
tranny input shaft rub

I found a picture of when I had the tranny out.
This is where I think the T/O bearing is riding on the shaft, the brown spot on the left in the picture.
It seems to suggest that the TOB is to close to the shaft, like the clutch fork is too long...
The old TOB did not have any marks inside it.

The ring around the face is the bushing needed to make the tranny tight in the truck B/H


Anyone have any ideas?

This weekend I will work on the DS. Hopefully I have time to drive it as well.
Its ben cold here, snow sleet yesterday....glad my heater works.
 

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Discussion Starter #174 (Edited)
universals and yokes

over the weekend I took out the DS and swapped the yoke transmission . The Old Yoke was out of a truck so there was a step Universal in it. I had measured and identified that I would be using a standard 1310 yoke with the new Yoke.
same on the Diff end. Off to NAPA and also got strap/ bolt kit.
I removed the DS and placed the new UNI into the input yoke and it seemed tight.
I also measured and it was with in a few thou
 

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Discussion Starter #175
Unfortunately when installed with the new straps and bolts the universal could move. I put the shims back in and no movement..... IDK maybe the steps are worn..or the grooves that hold the caps are.

Next I looked at the tranny yoke...It sure does stick out a lot more than it should.
So I measured it
 

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Discussion Starter #176 (Edited)
I can order a new Dif input BUT the only ones I found for a 8.5" ten bolt state 1988- 2000ish only. 100 bucks to see if it works..... maybe the shims will stay.

The Tranny yoke, now that's another issue. It may not be into the transmission bushing far enough. PO shortened the DS a few inches when he replaced the Muncie with the T-10 which is also where the big heavy yoke arrived.....
In the picture here you can see the yokes are the same length but the old one has more yoke than shaft so I didn't notice as much before that the shaft was not far enough into the tranny.

So I called my buddy, ( not the PO) and he looked and he has a DS 1" longer BUT it has inside clips vs G clips .

Spicer makes a 1310 with g clips and c clips. Apparently this is common, Dana Spicer Drivetrain Products 5-3022-1X is a Saginaw S44 (also know as the GM 3R) to a 1310 joint and I put them on my summit list.

Sat my other friend went to see my buddy so I asked him to get the DS and drop it off on way back, Sunday morning....they forgot.
So I went and got it Sunday noon, 60 miles round trip.. I wanted to have it before I drove the car: if I had more or same vibration, I would work to get the "new" DS installed.
I put the DS on the bench cleaned it up some, put penetrating oil in the caps to be removed and took measurements. The Diff end can go right in, just put the straps over the caps and ignore the c clip grooves. The Yoke end...well I could simply swap a couple caps from a spare 1310, put them in pace of two C clip caps and be good to go ..

I needed to drive the car Tuesday to the upholstery shop so I was making an A B and C plan.

I took the Nova out for a ride...very little vibration. like I couldn't seem to make it happen. made some runs, 45- 70 back down, up into the triple digits, let off and she just coasted down. very nice to not feel the car shaking at speed and when coasting down.
I think the shear weight and mass of the old yoke attributed to the vibration, along with the "loose" Dif yoke clamps.

Now I can clean up the new DS and paint it, etc. before installing and get the new Universals, as soon as I get my Summit order above 100 bucks..

I felt comfortable driving it to the upholstery shop ( 15 miles).
He called me this am and said he lost a phase in his shop and has no 220 cant work no heat etc. so reschedule for next week.

N o problem the new Ds will should be in by then, if I get off here and order from summit. .

Pic shows the weight/ mass difference of the two yokes
 

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Discussion Starter #177 (Edited)
drivin around aimlessly

Tuesday morning it was 42 deg. I fired up the Nova( after messing with adjusting the electric choke) ...I went the wrong way on Sunday am. let it cool and it did t want to stay running. re adjusted and Monday much better, tweaked it a bit Monday and Tuesday am she fired up nice. still drops off a bit more then I like in the step cam, but doesn't stall. . I had an appointment with the upholstery shop at 930. I got headrests for the front seat from eBay for 70 bucks w/ shipping ( PO threw them out when he recovered the seats).

Gil was to renew the headliner, all the carpet pieces in the back of the hatchback, including painting the seat metal and plates, fix the bent drivers side seat back, and fully carpet the rear. The speed shop that rebuilt my tranny was on the way so left my house early and stopped in and asked the owner if he'd check out the noise I have under part load. We went for a ride and then came back. with two people and his mechanics stethoscope he was able to hear it slightly in the #8 cylinder, thru the header. Its a metallic cyclic click. Well, Its not the clutch so I will leave that alone. We agree its not gonna blow up anytime soon. Ill remove the valve cover and see if its the spring etc. after upholstery. Gil called as I was driving and cancelled....he's sick...

So I went to the bodyshop and brought them breakfast.. I left Doug the last clip I have that holds the hatchback rear L/R plates to the plastic fender liner so he can dig me up some.

Drove to work...with the dam parking brake on...it didn't have much left as the PO drove it 200 miles to my house with it on, I had just taken all the slack out so I could use it as its a clutch car.

So I need new rear pads and a set of valve cover gaskets and them oil clips so I can adjust the valves with the engine running.

I Drove to the gym after work and then home. It sure does bring back a lot of memories....how simple cars were and we just drove em..no power windows, locks remote start.. NO drink holders...etc. I remember ( but do not condone) driving a stick with beer between my legs, and eating a pizza like it was nothing...steering with my left leg, having my buddy shift, with a bunch of friends, tunes cranked, probably smoking a cigarette as well!

Now I'm driving with Pandora and a Bluetooth speaker cause I am not putting in the stereo until after bodyshop.
It JUST PLAIN FUN to drive the car and man the heater cooks!

My plan was to paint the new D/S ( I'm 80% prep done) and get the parts together for brakes and valve cover while the car was in the upholstery shop.

I also want to pull the rear axles and replace the seals this winter, and clean up the axle housing some, while waiting on the bodyshop .

My wife's daughter was due to give birth last Friday...waiting...and we are hosting my daughters baby shower Saturday...not much Nova time...LOL

Ill post up pics soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #178 (Edited)
Ben busy; I hosted my daughters baby shower Sat. My Step daughter was called (finally) to be induced, Sat night. Baby came yesterday at 8 am.
With my sons baby a month old, that's two down, one to go. My daughter is due in Feb. All girls.

I did have some time Sunday so I decided to work on my parking brake. I want to pull the valve cover to check the springs etc on #8 but I need to be able to drive the car to the upholstery shop...some time soon. Parking brake is pretty important when you have a clutch car. The pawls were moving but not stopping the wheel. So I had my neighbor apply the brakes with car on lift and I spun the rear wheels, they did not stop. The fronts, they stop immediately. light car with disc brakes all around.. I never noticed.

So I had my neighbor pump the brakes while I bleed them. ...I left the cover off of the reservoir at first ....that was bad. I bled out some air and then bubbles, then clear. DS still not clamp well so I removed the caliper and worked the pawl. the piston did not move. I pushed it in all the way with a C clamp, then it started working. I had to stop for family stuff.
Of coarse Monday am Gil calls me and wants the car that day or Tuesday.
Turns out he wants it Tuesday Morning . last night I put the caliper back on, with the crappy guide pins and missing guide pin bushing....I don't know where the PO got the disc brake system ... more research to do to get parts including pads . Pads are ok for now . everything is aged from sitting near the ocean before I got the car.

I didn't have time to remove the PS caliper and clean it up/ push it in.
No help so I'm not 100% on the PS braking.
I adjusted the parking brake cables until the pawls were 1/4 " off the stops and spun the tires...no resistance. I set the parking brake and the DS wouldn't move ( yeah! ) but the PS would ( not yeah) .

Well, when the car gets back I will be pulling the axles out to replace the seals so Ill fix it all then. Drove the car over to the shop this morning. 40 deg. man the heater works great.
I enjoyed the ride.

I had to park the car behind the shop on a hill...glad I brought a wheel chock!

I really like the picture of the car.

Inside the shop. man it feels like home.
 

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Discussion Starter #179
I know your gonna ask...
Its Malibu with a 396/ auto trans. dressed up as a SS.
 

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Discussion Starter #180 (Edited)
My Nova is in the shop for the following:

New headliner.
fix rear seat bottom so it locks in.
Prep paint top of rear seat
renew factory carpet where it is glued to the hatchback rear seat back paint where needed.
Add carpet to the entire back floor area.
Fix drivers seat back as its bent or somehow crocked.

Starting with headliner:
this is what happens when you don't remove the old foam, glue new foam to the fiberboard liner and then glue the headliner to the new foam, and trim it up all nice.

Every time I brush against the liner or hit a big bump it rains old foam dust...everywhere.
 

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