Chevy Nova Forum banner

481 - 500 of 501 Posts

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #481 ·
I worked on the Nova 4 hours Sunday. I washed the rear frame with purple power and rinsed with water/ clean rags. Then I used my pneumatic die grinder with pads on it in all the areas I could get to. I decided to just do the rear frame and stop, then put the bumper back on and drive the car some. I used brake cleaner and compressed air to clean out the frame and channels. Also green scratchy pads wear ever I could reach, getting into the nooks and crannies as best I could. I straightened the bent metal lips as best I could, especially around the RR. While that was drying I cleaned up the bolts and rear bumper filler clips I had soaking in vinegar and salt solution. A trick I learned here is to start wire brushing each piece as soon as you take it out of the solution. If the crud dries first it’s a lot harder to remove. I used Eastwood internal frame coating. I’ve used it in the frame etc. in the front areas of the car. It comes with a 24” tube with a spray nozzle. The nozzle comes coiled up and it does not cooperate with straightening: I have had one hanging for 4 months and it still curls up. So I took some stiff wire, and made a wand, then taped the nozzle to it. I shoved it in the frames, and the rear cross frame as well as anywhere I could get to and commenced to making a mess. The spray nozzle has 4 holes and doesn’t seem to cover the inside of the channels evenly, so I spray an area, say from as far as the wand will in the channel reach and pull it out about 10” . Then I turn the wand 90 deg and hit that area again. There is delay, almost like expanding foam, between when you press or release the button and the start/ stop, so you have to anticipate. I put cardboard on the floor to collect the drips. After the application I wiped and access I could see. Monday after work I added a second coat, spraying until the can was empty. I also painted the hardware. Later this week I plan on Taping off and painting the exterior metal with rust encapsulator and then one of the black paints I have. I will also use rust oleum black to brush up in the places I can’t spray well. I’ve been fitting the bumper mounts to the bumper. The PS is bent from the PO having backed into to something, so I am having to bend it, and check, and repeat. It’s actually twisted vice just the ears being bent so It being particularly difficult. I need to get it right before I mount it to the car. More on that later.

I think it’s reasonable that I will be driving the car again in two weeks.

New project: saving all the steel balls and marbles from the rattle cans….. Should have started it a long time ago….lol.

The wand I rigged up not shown is the pistol grip handle I bent the into the wire:
417380


the brass tip :
417381


Shoved in the frame channel. the paint can is not connected, I only have two hands:

417382

hardware painted and a couple "before pieces" for reference. I use the block and the loose cardboard sheet to move the items around without touching them so as to paint all angles in one event


417383
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
836 Posts
I worked on the car some last weekend. Here's what the rear seam looks like with the bumper off. I cleaned this up with scrappers, wire wheels and die grinder.

Left side:
View attachment 416984

Right side its bent and torn like the old bumper.

View attachment 416985

And here's an "after " photo of the area under the lip seam.

View attachment 416986

I will straighten up the lip seam and apply new seam sealer then paint. I'm also cleaning up the bolts that hold the bumper brackets on. I started working underneath... hmm Maybe it will wait until winter... I'm leaning towards finding a good stopping point and getting her on the road for the spring before its to hot ( No AC)…..
This area is real bad on mine. Going to be cutting that whole lip off and making a new one. Must be a common problem area on these, but at least yours is all there still it appears lol not mine

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #483 · (Edited)
Last night I washed the sticky preservative off of the new bumper, cleaned up under and behind the "bumper frame" on the car, including the area around the fill neck. I sanded, scrubbed with green pads etc, then rinsed with brake cleaner , followed by east wood" chassis clean" with clean cloths. Compressed air finished the prep. I taped off the areas to be painted and put a sock/ painters tape around the gas fill neck. Then I taped of the gas fill port from the outside.
I applied eastwoods rust encapsulater black. Il go back over it tonight to hit any areas that need more, some of which I can see in the pictures.

shiny new bumper

417406


I like shiny bumpers...
417407
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #484 · (Edited)
Here's the back and underside pics, after a coat of paint. I've ben using different tools to uncurl and reshape the the lip seals where they were smushed in.
You can see here where bondo was added years ago where the old bumper was smashed into the quarter. I dented the quarter more and took another chunk out as seen near the side lite, when I was removing the bumper. . I have new 1/4 panels.
417408


and the back:

417409


the light streaks are from the overhead light shining threw the holes.

417410


I'm going to pick a color, probably frame satin black and paint over the rust encapsulater. Bonus: I used up another can of rust encapsulater and it had two marbles in it! Joy Joy!!!! lol
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #485 ·
I took a few pictures from below. I can see a few seam lines that need attention.

417412


this pic you can see I need to go back over the area between the tape and the metal lips next project..

417413
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #486 · (Edited)
Iven been busy with HEI failure and, of coarse, since I decided not to drop the gas tank so I could drive the car as soon as filled the tank it started leaking through and old tar like patch. Made a big gooey sticky mess.

Any advice on which gas tank to get? Source? Goldenstar?

SS? Import?

Which ones come with the fill hole completely installed?
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #487 ·
Did some shopping , ordered a spectra premium GM2108 from rockauto. 5% off, least shipping charge of the others.
Not sure when it will arrive. not real concerned.
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #488 ·
Here's a couple pictures of the tank, after I cleaned up the mess some, and the syphoning operation. nasty stuff ate the paint off my floor.
I figured I'd get the gas out, by raising the car and creating a syphon by pushing one end of the hose down deep in the tank, capping the other end with my hand and then placing that end lower than the tank and then letting go of the caped end. Didn't work.... 87 octane taste bad, and the after taste( burping) lasts 4-6 hours. I did use plastic hose clamp pincher pliers to stop the flow when changing tanks so I didn't loose the syphon. That way I only got one taste of gas.
I may take a few days off this coming week and remove the old tank, prep prime paint the area above the tank, install the new tank etc.

418095


And syphoning out all the gas. Of coarse I had just filled it 5 miles before it broke down.


418096
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #489 · (Edited)
As the rear bumper mounted crooked I decided to remove it and start over. I plan on making the mounting holes bigger as needed add shims where needed as well. I now notice the right rear body on the car body is bent in, at the top mount hole, causing the bumper to angle down. It can’t be accessed until the ¼ panel is replaced. Some of the SS carriage bolts that bolt the bumper to the mounting brackets did not want to loosen, probably they are marred from being forced in. The carriage bolts don't fit snugly in the square holes in the bumper: The bolts are from Fastenal , the bumper is from ...china. Once they all were removed ( a fair amount of cussing , hack saws, chisels and hammers were involved, but the out side of the chrome bumper is ok. I will have to file a few rough sots where the bolts turned and marred the square holes) from the bumper I fitted and marked the holes in the mounts to be “adjusted” with a white paint marker. Next I removed the hatchback interior rear trim piece along the back to access the sending unit wire and body plug where it exists the body. I unhooked it and pushed the rubber plug seal and wire threw the hole. Next the filler neck support piece was removed. I had been wire brushing and applying PJ blast to the tank strap hardware for a few days. Still one of the J nuts broke. I cut the rubber fuel and vent lines and removed the ground screw and wire. I slid a table up under the car and turned it lengthways so the straps cleared on both sides, and lowered the car till the tank was just touching the tank. Removed the straps, dropped the tank and then raised up the car. My new tank arrived Sunday am , so I set about comparing the two:
The old one has a 5/16” steel vent line that originates at the tank top. It is not part of the sending unit. It runs down to the seam and then the length of the seam to the DS frame rail, where it ties into the vent line with a 4” rubber hose The vent line runs to below the brake booster. This is how the tank is vented (in my car anyway). The new tank has a short copper tube that only goes down to the seam. I’ll look into something other than 3 feet of rubber hose, but it may be a later project.

I removed the sending unit. In doing so I discovered the fuel tank is not leaking, the steel 3/8” supply line is… HMMM, this may have added to or been the “root cause” of the recent HEI failures…if its leaking fuel just sitting there then its sucking air, especially at high rpms when the mechanical fuel pump it really stroking. This could explain the engine cut out at 4k. , and some of the bucking and hesitation at speed. It must have been leaking some for a long time, and finally got bad enough to leave a puddle. Also might explain why the gas gauge seamed off sometimes, like going form 7/8 to 1/2 when sitting for a few weeks.

I bought the “wrong “sending unit. I bought an OER K4042, for a 73-75 WITH vapor recovery, which is a different (additional) line than the vent line I have. It has a second smaller line that runs parallel to the 3/8” fuel supply line. I’m going to act like I bought it on purpose, cap it off and say it’s for fuel return when I need it….. For those of you not inclined to make stuff up, the correct OER PN is K4041, although Jegs/ others has them as well.

Next I cleaned up the area above the tank, then painted it with black rust converter. Areas that had texture from old undercoating etc… got new undercoating. The area above the tank was actually in good shape. No paperwork was found…. I’m not sure but I think this may not be the original tank. I gotta look into the numbers printed on it. I cleaned up the hardware that I need to reuse and drilled some holes out in the bumper mounting brackets and called it a day.

This is how the tank arrived lucky no damage. And I guess as its direct delivery... NO MAGNET! bummer

418183


Here's the leak. I syphoned all but maybe 2 gallons out and still its leaking. :

418184


Top of tank is a but rusty there are some dents etc the line n the right is the charcoal vent refence in discussion above.

418185
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,158 Posts
I appreciate your perseverance and commitment to making things Right! You have certainly had some challenges but that will make it all the more special when you are done...Whatever "done" is :)
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #491 · (Edited)
Thank you^^^
Last night after work I stopped at the Eastwood store( very lucky to have one that recently opened literally on the way home) and picked up a can of internal frame coating, and a few other things I , uh wanted. I applied a second coat of black rust converter paint to the area above the tank and to the hardware I need to reuse. Then I shoved the Internal frame coating tube, strapped to the stiff wire into the frame piece that holds the tank. In between coats, while the air cleared, I wire wheeled the fuel supply tubing. I found another pin hole.
Short list to get the car running:

Replace DS valve cover gasket. how I hate these SBC gasket leaks!
Remove, check and clean all connections of the engine block ground and replace the block to firewall ground strap.
Remount rear bumper, possibly paint the bumper filler and put it back on. If I don't do this now Il have t remove the bumper to install it later, if I decide to. I am getting well versed in removing the rear bumper. Then replace gas tank. I think It would be easier to do it in this order
Assemble tool kit and spare HEI module...… JIC...

underside of car, sorry no before pics:
418216


I was curious as to how big the hole was in the fuel supply line. well, big enough to suck air and mess with the engine I'm sure:
418217


Here is how I got preservative up in the cavities. shove the wand up in there as far as it would go and then hit the button while withdrawing the wand. repeat in any/ all holes to cover all, stop when it comes dripping out.
418218


So much fun so little time: I forgot to put gloves on and cardboard on the floor. this stuff hardens quick and is hard to clean up.
 

·
Registered
Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
Joined
·
1,805 Posts
Great job on trouble shooting and fixing your issues... and also taking the extra steps to clean, protect, and preserve the underside of your Nova. It's these kind of details that pay off in the long run!
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #493 ·
had some time to work on the car this week. I removed the battery ground from the back of the engine and the strap ground to the firewall as well. All the contact surfaces were dirty and the bolt was chrome plated from an engine dress up kit. It probably was ok IRT conducting electricity but I replaced it with a new one I cleaned the hole in the back of the head out as best I could, and blew it out with air. The new strap had to be drilled out to fit the bolt. After the connections were clean I Installed the new strap and hung the bolt from it as the bolt is tight in the strap hole and won’t fall out. I put some high temp sealant on the threads and tried to put the bolt in. AN hour late I am contemplating pulling the tranny and /or the header to get this dam bolt in….up / down on the lift, laying on the engine bay I went in the house for supper and left it alone for another day…..

Fuel tank. The new sending unit SS tubing is not bent to the correct angle, and does not reach to the seam, where I planned on clipping it in place like the old one was. It is mounted and seated correctly, it wont turn any further. I bent the tubing as much as I dared, but it still does not clear the vent hump. I split some rubber tubing and wrapped both lines, and zip tied them, to prevent chaffing and rattling. I capped off the “fuel return” line and zipped it to the main fuel line. I took a close look at the vent line, the bend is very tight, I blew air threw it and felt a fair amount of resistance. I think I’ll cut it off and run new 5/16 tubing, probably brake line or the like all the way to the frame connection, where there will be a rubber connection.

the vent line is pinched more than I am comfortable with:
418328


The fuel lines are not bent to fit and do not reach the seam like stock

418329


The lines are supposed to go around the hump like stock not over it. It will fit I just don't like it

418330
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #494 ·
I got back to the ground wires. After another hour of no success I zip tied long nose pliers tight to the wire, then maneuvered the wire very close and aligned with the hole. Then I zip tied the pliers to the header. I had drilled the ground strap connection out to fit the 3/8” bolt, it actually was tight to the bolt so I connected the other end to the firewall and hung it in place. After some more trial and error I used 3 feet of 3/8 extension and a circular ratchet with a 9/16 wobble socket wrapped at the joint with electrical tape and got the bolt in the hole with the ground strap connected. Tightened it up nicely like I knew what I was doing.

Cable assist mechanism prototype 5d:

418427
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #495 · (Edited)
I’ve been cleaning up the rear bumper filler sporadically. I have some black vinyl Paint so I figured I’d paint a test patch and see if it would adhere and bond without cracking, as I really don’t know what the bumper filler is made of. Two days later the paint was pliable and adhering. So I decided to paint the whole thing. I cleaned and scrubbed the remaining areas and sanded as smooth as possible. I would have preferred to use some kind of filler/ epoxy etc. in some of the gouges, oxidized and cracked areas, however no idea what to use. I will research it for another time. I applied three light coats, and smoothed out and runs in between coats. Looks good from ten feet away, and most of the worn areas will be hidden under the bumper.
Test patch:

418430


After:

418431


another angle:

418432
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #496 · (Edited)
I clamped the tight bend in the vent tube with welding vice grips until the kink opened up, and I could blow thru the tube better. For the fuel tank vent line extension I ordered 10 feet of 5/16" tubing, compression fittings and a hand Swaging tool. The swaging tool idea worked out so I didn't need the compression fittings. I decided to get a hand tool vice a better swaging tool as It will be used infrequently at most so I went the inexpensive route. After a little practice I figured out that if I clamped it with a flaring tool block, then put that in the vice I could insert the tool and beat it with my hammer to make the swag. Next I cleaned up the end pieces, added a coat of flux and soldered it in place. It probably wouldn't hold up to refrigeration , or even fuel, but its a vent and I mainly wanted the solder to help hold it in place so it doesn't separate as the car is being driven. I added a tubing clamp that I cleaned up and painted from the old tank to help secure the tubing in place.

Arrow points at hand swaging tool , non used compression ( wedding and / ferrule) fitting, circled.

418757




Vent extension in place on the tank: You can also see how the new sending unit/
pick up tube does not route to the seam as the original did.
IMG-4124.JPG
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #497 · (Edited)
My friend came over and helped. We put the bumper filler in place using the clips I had cleaned up and painted from the disassembly. I modified some "clam clips " that are steel paper clips are applied ( designed for paper) with a hand tool and used them to clip the bumper filler to the lip seam on the car. Then we put the rear bumper back on. We held it in place and put the 8 bolts in, but only tightened down the 5 that were making contact. We snugged the bolts on the bumper enough to hold it in place yet loose enough so we could move it around. Once it was straight and even we tightened up the bolts where the bracket was touching the frame. (5 bolts) . After a couple more small adjustments we added shims from a body/ front end alignment kit I had, in between the bracket and frame. This way it is tight yet its not bending or twisting the bumper. Looks great from ten feet!

418820



Clam clips :

418836


Another view. the mouth didn't open far enough to use the tool to put the clam clamps in place. I used a screwdriver blade to pry open the clips and then inserting them worked. Sorry no pictures of them holding the bumper filler in place.

418837
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #498 ·
After a short break we installed the gas tank. pretty straightforward job, just two straps right? I had installed replacement J nuts for the rear strap mounts, as one of the factory ones broke upon removal and the other one had a loose nut and wouldn't last long.
The longest strap wasn't bent at the correct place and I could not get the strap bolt to start. notice the mark in the picture, that's where I marked it to bend it correctly. I had purchased a fuel tank install kit that included insulator strips. they were tar paper without the tar. I reused the old ones , they were in good shape and thicker. Back home we sometimes used old seat belt straps from junk cars for this.
We hooked up the sending unit wire, and after some adjustments got both bolts in and tight. Of coarse the ground wire was 1.5" to short so I used a self tapping screw and made another mounting hole.
Next I completed the vent line, by shortening it and then adding a short length of 5/16 hose and two clamps.
The 3/8" fuel supply was different story. the line up was not even close to factory. As I wrote before, I don't think I could bend the chrome covered steel line without a kink, even with a tubing bender, and I'd need to shorten it which would mean to cut off the machined hump and stop ring. It would probably leak.
The loop seems the only option, and the bend radius is much more than the minimum ( 2.5- 4 X hose OD), however I don't like it. Future project.

Old strips/new strips:
418824


Installed after rebending one strap:

418825


ground wire new location:

418826
 

·
Registered
1973 Custom hatchback
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #499 · (Edited)
Vent line: the length we cut and installed when the tank was out of the car was pretty close, better a bit to long than too short. I cut 1.5"of, and bent it into place:

418827


Then installed some 5/16" hose and clamps.

418838
 
481 - 500 of 501 Posts
Top