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Discussion Starter · #441 · (Edited)
I went for a ride last night. The stereo didn't work, I shut it off, turned it on a few miles later and it worked. There is a delay built in, the faceplate lites up immmradiatley, but no sound for 5-10 seconds so maybe I just didn't wait long enough. eventually I will get a better system, I wont trust ever trust this one. I really didn't focus on it much, I was busy doing other things:
I set the choke and she fires right up, goes to 1600 rpms. a bit high, I need to turn that down a bit to 1500. the second step down is about 1k. I was revving the engine and moving the car and she came down to idle to quick, tried to run at 450 and died. But after being warm idle was about 750.
The tach Quit moving up at 4100, I was turning at least 5500. it kinda jumped around a bit and just wouldn't go up. HEI. I checked the tach drive wire at the Distributer, it wiggled some, Ill tighten it and see what happens. Cars down on power. I have not checked the base timing, so I will do that next, no vacuum - 12 deg BTDC and then hook to up and check for 36/38 @4k with my retard timing light. set retard to 36 and it should flash at zero/ DBTDC.
The annoying rattle in gear while driving is still there. It doesn't seem to have any effect on power, there's no smoke from the exhaust, If I can get the radio to work Ill turn it up, and replacing the door gaskets will help as well. run it till it blows. With all the work I have done, ne motor mounts, moving the engine etc. its either in the engine( I have checked all rockers for chatter) in the accessory drive or., well, l IDK.
One step forward three back
 

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Discussion Starter · #442 ·
I had ordered a replacement filter screen for the fuel filter, It arrived so I changed it out. Lots of crud in there. Most fell out with the fuel before I took pictures. I cleaned it up and then bumped the engine over with the hose going into a clean jug to ensure the fuel was clean. I replaced the rubber hose and clamps to the carb. Ill be dropping the fuel tank this winter, and replacing the sending unit and filter sock. Also clean out the tank.

Start:
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inside the barrel after flushing 1x

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Screen after tapping off most of the crud
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Nothing was downstream of the filterscreen.
If I have carb trouble Ill know right away why.
 

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Discussion Starter · #443 · (Edited)
I went ahead and installed the PS door gasket. The tube of sealant has a nipple sticking out and the cap goes into it so it wont dry up. I learned a few tricks and used my plastic trim tools to get the top seam into the groove without ripping the foam, and stretching it to the next anchor pin point at the same time.
start of DS:
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more

IMG-3281.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #444 ·
bottom with some surface rust showing along the bottom lip . the DS was a lot worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #445 ·
cant edit here s the pic
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and the rear of door shows the original color of the Nova

412304
 

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Discussion Starter · #446 ·
DS had a lot more rust. I wire brushed and sanded, cleaned it up and painted it with rust oleum.

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bottom after one coat, I added another coat last night.
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another

412307
 

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Discussion Starter · #447 ·
a couple more. I may roll the window up and spray eastwood internal frame coating in there by sticking the spray tube in the drain holes, if it will fit . I have washed it out with brake cleaner from the top down, by spraying it into the clip holes.
IMG-3377.jpg


412309
 

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Discussion Starter · #448 · (Edited)
Ill post the new gaskets etc. as soon as I finish it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #449 · (Edited)
Passenger side complete. I also rolled the windows up and did the "Rusty Jones" treatment to both doors, the Eastwood internal frame coating nozzle fit in the drain and door gasket holes. The tube for the paint comes coiled and won't stay straight, so I used a stiff wire taped to the plastic hose to ensure I covered the inside of the door 100%. I sprayed it inside the door at all angles until it dripped out of the drain holes.
Here's some pics of the PS with the new gasket in place. I also replaced the two door bumpers( sold separately) on each door.
IRT paint.. this is only temporary until I can get the car painted. I stopped the rust, and sealing up the doors will help with noise, as well as water intrusion, which will be from me washing the car, as I don't plan on driving it in the rain.

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I may go back and glue/ fill this area better.

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The gaskets are soft and light materiel. I had to clamp the inside corners and other areas until the glue dried. See here how the gasket rolls over on itself, it will probably fold and crease. I will be looking for a better product in the future. I think I have another set, …….somewhere.

413077
 

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Discussion Starter · #450 · (Edited)
I haven't been able to work over the last three weeks, recovering from back surgery on 01 Dec. last weekend I went out to my shop and put the DS door gasket on. I had left it all prepped so I could get started again with an easy project. It wasn't easy, even with using the lift to access the bottom of the door there was still many angles and twisting. I'm not supposed to bend far or twist at all for 6 weeks. I'm a bad, impatient patient. LOL.
I used the trim tools and a fat punch to set the pins in. The fat punch worked well to push the pins in evenly and fully. Using trim tools and screwdrivers was hard and tore the gaskets a bit a couple times. Now I will go back and check the PS as the pins probably are not all set as well as the DS.
Speaking of pins, the gaskets come with one pin on each gasket color coded:
The DS, or left, like a ship (port is LH when facing the bow or pointy end of the ship) has one red pin. same as the port running light
The PS, or Right, like a ship, (starboard, RH when facing forward ) has one Green pin. same as he Starboard running light.
24 Years in the USCG, I couldn't not not relate the two concepts....
This is very helpful as when you lay them out its not easy to see which one goes where.
here's the Port/ left DS red pin.

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And the DS all prepped.

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Ill post up a few more of the Gasket installed when I get back to it.
 

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Not sure what cement you are using but if you need to patch anything up after you are finished, 3M weatherstrip cement works great . Comes in yellow or black. Hope you heal up ok...
 

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Discussion Starter · #452 ·
^^^ Thank You! I have a tube and a half of 3M black. I gotta say the cap seals up tight and allows the tube to be reused multiple times.
here's some pictures of the Drivers side:
1. The top after I removed the clamps. it would not set in place when installed, so I added more glue and clamped it.
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2. The back of the door: disclaimer : I didn't paint the green and surely didn't pant it over the stickers. Now that I look at it I think I will paint more black on the outside edge so It looks like I have a clue...

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The doors shut tight now. As soon as I am able ( clutch a bit hard on my back at the moment) and the weather cooperates I'm gonna take her for a spin and see how much less road noise there is. Its a hatchback so its gonna be a bit loud, but I expect less noise and more fun. Before that I will paint both door edges black.

Then I will then move on to:
The LF headlight bucket replace, the headlight adjustment hole is rotted away, as I discovered the third time I adjusted the headlight. I can do this with the car raised to the correct height and me sitting in a chair. I have the bucket, new springs, screws and hardware.
I will probably replace the front dash speaker as it pops and is scratchy, no matter the connections etc., and fix the low beam wire at the dimmer switch and grommet install. I hope to Tom sawyer those out, as I cannot lay on the seat/floor twist bend etc. needed to do either of these jobs.

Then later this winter, drop the gas tank and rear bumper and prep and paint the underneath. then reinstall the gas tank, or replace with new. I do have new sending unit, correct straps hdwe etc.

merry Xmas everyone!
 

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^^^ Thank You! I have a tube and a half of 3M black. I gotta say the cap seals up tight and allows the tube to be reused multiple times.
here's some pictures of the Drivers side:
1. The top after I removed the clamps. it would not set in place when installed, so I added more glue and clamped it.
View attachment 413224

2. The back of the door: disclaimer : I didn't paint the green and surely didn't pant it over the stickers. Now that I look at it I think I will paint more black on the outside edge so It looks like I have a clue...

View attachment 413225

The doors shut tight now. As soon as I am able ( clutch a bit hard on my back at the moment) and the weather cooperates I'm gonna take her for a spin and see how much less road noise there is. Its a hatchback so its gonna be a bit loud, but I expect less noise and more fun. Before that I will paint both door edges black.

Then I will then move on to:
The LF headlight bucket replace, the headlight adjustment hole is rotted away, as I discovered the third time I adjusted the headlight. I can do this with the car raised to the correct height and me sitting in a chair. I have the bucket, new springs, screws and hardware.
I will probably replace the front dash speaker as it pops and is scratchy, no matter the connections etc., and fix the low beam wire at the dimmer switch and grommet install. I hope to Tom sawyer those out, as I cannot lay on the seat/floor twist bend etc. needed to do either of these jobs.

Then later this winter, drop the gas tank and rear bumper and prep and paint the underneath. then reinstall the gas tank, or replace with new. I do have new sending unit, correct straps hdwe etc.

merry Xmas everyone!
 

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Hope it seals good. If not maybe some more glue and clamping. I remember the ones I used (its been almost 10 yrs ago) had little plastic pins that fit in holes around the door. That helped a lot but I still used the glue. I also remember like with you it was hard to figure out which way they went on--almost put them on the wrong way.

I'm a little frustrated too as l can't work because I'm dealing with c-19 right now and have a lot of time. I would like to work on my car--just not up to it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #455 ·
Get well soon.
I actually put some glue in between each pin, per the instructions and I did a better job ( as planned) in the DS. I need to go back over the PS, ensure the pins are all the way in and add glue as needed. I should have some time this weekend.
 

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I'm sure you were already going to, but if you wouldnt mind after all is said and done with the rubbers and maybe broke in a little posting here what you think, pros and cons and what not?
I'm real curious to see what you think after a little bit.
Anyway, Nova is coming along great man nice job

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #457 ·
I raised the car about 2 feet on the lift so I could sit in my wheeled chair and work on replacing the L/F headlight bucket. It was rusty in behind there, as I didn't do that area when I did the radiator support. So I wire wheeled and sanded the area. I decided I should do the Pass side as well, so I removed all hardware etc. pretty soon I had parts and tools all helter skelter, just how we like it! I had new adjusters and buckets, and chrome rings with new screws, so now's the time. When I got tired of wire brushing and sanding I did some troubleshooting in the horn. What I learned is if you jump from the battery + to the "hot" wire that goes to the horn at the horn relay the relay does not like that.... + to + = stuck relay. I removed the wire, cleaned the connection and put 12v to it and got some improvement, from the lame sound it had. I decided to remove the horn from up under the DS fender well so I could clean the connection at the horn as well. I also wanted to see what PN I have. Horns for some reason are expensive and I was thinking of replacing it, but IDK what have Low? high? some generic replacement?
The horn is old. it was nasty. I cleaned it up and identified the PN. Its a Delco Remy 9000 12v. It crosses over to a bunch of Newer PNs however its a LOW tone. The easiest way to tell if it was a low or high note is to look at the curls of the horn: A Low note has 2 complete curls or circles from the center of the horn to the outlet. A HIGH note has only 1.5 curls.
Also, there is a L or and H in the circle above and to the right of the Delco Remy logo.
My circle was blank....
Here's some pictures of the horn as I cleaned it up and sanded for prep.
See the PN upper right
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20 years of maine winters the other side was rough. see the arrow pointing to where the L or H is supposed to be
IMG-3560.jpg
IMG-3561.jpg


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Discussion Starter · #458 ·
next I taped off the backside and painted the horn front with textured rust converter. Yeah its plastic but it dries and stayed on.... then I Painted the backside with black rust converter. I had both cans already half used , so why not try it?
It came out pretty good, especially since it wont be seen by anyone....lol at least not until the fender are replaced.
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^ the finnish was already " textured" from the corrosion so why not? Horns run 75 bucks.

The backside came out nice as well. I take these opportunities to learn/ practice: add several light coats vice the fat drippy stuff I tend to do.
also cleaned up the bolt and painted the head of it as well.

414591
 

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Discussion Starter · #459 ·
Once I mounted the horn and hooked up the wire, the relay cooperated and the horn worked. sounds much better then the lame ass groan from before.
As this project was progressing I was also working on the headlight buckets/ radiator support. back and forth as one item was drying, prepping another etc.
I learned that the real problem in the DS headlight adjustment slipping out was not the headlight bucket per say: it was the spring:
SS396 / others sell one spring, PN LHS 67. It is actually for the PS only. the DS is bent differently. I figured this out after fitting the bucket in only to see it being pulled the wrong way.

Classic Muscle, not classic industries, sells the correct ones: LH (DS) is PN 5953168, RH is PN 3929918, these PNs match what I found in my parts book.

Summit sells an entire kit, for both headlights, with correctly bent springs, and adjusters as PN 401206971S for 14 bucks.
I had spares of the LHS 67. I bent the spring tip curl to work, however that's only half the problem. the DS spring is spiraled the opposite way, so it would pull the bucket IN and back. I will eventually replace it with the correct spring.
If your reading this and it helps you... great my 4 hours of WTF was of benefit....lol
Here's some pictures of the springs the gold ones are LHS-67, the black one is an original.
 

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Discussion Starter · #460 ·
Here's an assortment of bent springs as I was working on the issue and the one original: note the original is spiraled the opposite ( correct) way.
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