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Discussion Starter #301
Next item: I removed the back seat so see how big the hole is.....once I removed the old insulation, I found quite a bit of rust and more holes. I vacuumed up most of it and I THINK I can cut out and fab some pieces, as the area around the hole still has original paint. Ill have to carefully mark where the seat mount hook goes. What I figured is the rear window leaked. that was fixed however the water had already found its way to the floor and sat there for years. the same thing has happened in the front left and right toe board, where the windshield corners leaked. SO this weekend I will remove the seat and carpet, clean it all up and see where Its at. I can see some holes in the floor, not sure how big they will become. All of the corrosion is from water leaking..so it is only in the lowest areas and collection points. The Drivers side is in much better shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #302 (Edited)
Over the weekend I first removed and installed all the body mounts correctly: what a difference!. The firewall mount was tough to put in as 73-74 doesn't have shims, just a big fat spacer. I used a floor jack to raise the body up and another for the radiator mount, and still needed a pry bar, even with all 6 mounts loose. That's what happens when someone puts the mounts in wrong and drives the car for ten years. This also explains why the front fenders are pushed out at the rear. As soon as I had all of them in on the PS, I set the car down to snug them up some, I realized that the bolts in the kit would have worked with the bushing squished in between the body and frame as they should be. The car sits completely different now, the distributer has abut 1/2"-3/4" more clearance to the firewall, and I have much more clearance at the front tire/ wheel well. SOO all the time / money I spent on the front tires/ wheels could have ben avoided.... If I had known.. anyway .The stance is sooo mauch better. I'm stoked to move the engine to the proper place. ( It needs to go back about 1.5") Nothing holding it now but the radiator hoses.
I removed the sill plates, front seat and belts, carpet and shifter. Then all the rear seat belts. Good thing I removed the exhaust, as the rear seat belt bolts hold most of it up. I bagged and tagged the loose parts. Then I stripped all the old insulation ( nasty stuff) and exposed all the wet areas. I followed the rust in the back set and floor pan areas as far as it went, removing seam sealer and paint as I went along. The drivers side rear just has surface rust and one minor hole where the inner wheel well seam is... I think that may be there from the factory. I put the back seat back in to see why it is loose... the obvious solution seems to be to bend the rod that clips in up to make it tighter, but not sure : PO crammed a amp in between the foam and bottom frame, IDK what is actually bent. The Passenger side: I measured, made notes, and marked where the seat mounting clip goes, then removed it. I cleaned up the rust and marked where the metal was still good, drew an outline and then used my east wood Pneumatic air body saw and cut away. I knew the frame was also under the metal so I used my cut off wheel to try and cut down only through the sheet metal, not into the frame. I was about 90% successful: Ill be welding one or two areas....opps. I used a chisel to bust the few spot welds that were still holding. I removed the drain plug in the pan, and all the old seam sealer. Next I will mark and cut out the rusted portion of the depression. I will most likely weld in a flat piece vice trying to fab a new channel. Alternatively I could buy new pans and cut out what I need< but so far it looks like its localized only.
My cuts aren't the straightest: Ill be straightening them out with the flapper/ grinder before I make a cardboard template.
I plan to remove all the corrosion I can and treat the exposed rear inner frame with frame rust converter / zero rust( like Por15). I will do same with the surface rusted areas.
After I cutout the bad metal in the floor , I will cut into the DS toe board. That's going to be the hard one.
I plan on removing all the surface corrosion from the drivers side seat pan and floor pan and treating as above. It will look like patch work but no one will see it once I install new insulation and carpet. 80% of the flor has factory paint that looks new.
 

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Discussion Starter #303
here's a couple pictures of the floor pan on the Pass side.
First pic is what I found after some light brushing/ vacuum.
Second is of the same after wire brushing by hand, and removing the drain plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #304 (Edited)
I had a friend coming over to help me last Saturday . I decided its time to move the engine and tranny to its proper place. I have spent a some time researching this as the motor sits crooked and too far forward. :
PO put the engine in and used the forward mount holes. I found marks on the front balancer, sway bar, and frame.... where the engine sat and rubbed so I think I follow what transpired. Once the engine was in and rubbing it was raised up with the washers. stacks of washers were added to all 6 clamshell mount brackets, in between the engine and the brackets. . It appears the engine was mounted first to the Passenger side, then the washers were added between the clamshells and the engine, then the Drivers side mount was installed and a hole was drilled in the frame to put the bolts threw. This resulted in the engine sitting higher on the Drivers side. Only two bolts each ( Stainless steel no less) were holding he mounts to the frame. SS bolts should never be used for engine mounts or couplings etc. as they stretch after being Torqued and loosen. SS bolts were also used to mount the clamshells.
In preparation I removed the E-brake cable and Drive shaft. I need the cable removed so I don't cut it when I am using my body saw to remove the rusted out floor pans. I removed the bolts that hold the tranny cross member in, and the Z bar. I have the headers and exhaust off already so this is an ideal time to move the engine back. The car sub Frame has two sets of holes for the cross member: I was confident once moved back the rear holes would line up with the bolts: the tranny mount has grooves for moving the cross member fwd and back as well.
From my research, not 100% sure:
You may have seen pictures of notches cut in the subframe below the engine and the firewall notched to allow for the engine to sit and HEI to clear the firewall. This is usually why.
IN 1973 chevy added the tangs to the back of the engine cradle, and moved the engine back. They also went to the new style mounts. They did not have HEI yet, so the distributer was smaller and cleared the firewall with ease.
Once I put the body mount bushings in correctly I noticed the body sat a lot further off the frame and there is more clearance for the engine/ firewall. I have a smaller diameter Distributer and separate coil, if the HEI doesn't clear , then Ill use that vice cutting a hole in the firewall.
I figured out I would need to move the engine back first, then remove the washers , If I lowered it first it would be sitting on the frame etc. and not move back. I think the dampener holding the weight of the engine might mess with the crank. .
So under "winging it" I placed a 4" X 6" block of wood under the oil pan and applied light Pressure with my screw jack. We removed the motor mount to frame bolts, ( these are a major PITA) then used a prybar between the clamshell and cross member frame to move the engine back until the passenger side engine mount lined up with the tang hole. Here's a picture of how far back the Motor mounts were. The tang hole is where the motor mount hole should line up, about 1.5" off. This is the DS mount you an tell the hole is in the motor mount is up higher than the tang hole: that's due to the aforementioned washers.
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Discussion Starter #305 (Edited)
That went surprisingly well. Next we sat the engine down in place and dropped a bolt in the PS engine mount hole and the tang hole. We used the screw jack and wire brush handle/ piece of scrap wood against the oil pan lip and bolts to carefully jack up the D/S of the engine until we could remove the old mount. then we removed the clamshell and all the washers ( about 5 per bolt) fell on the floor. See Picture 1. We cleaned up the clamshell, and the side of the engine, then reinstalled the clamshell with new correct hardware. I went to install my new motor mount and realized the holes are wider on one side then the other and no arrow or indication of which way to install. See pics. None of my references helped. So I called my buddy Neal, AKA Mr. SBC, and he said fat end up. So we put the new mount and hdwe in loosely then did the same on the PS. The engine dropped into place like it wanted to. The new motor mount to clamshell bolts I had were too short, so I did reuse the 5" bolts for that. Upon inspection of the old motor mounts one rubber insert was loose in the hole, torn and pushed way over. Cant imagine why. We tightened everything up and then dropped the tranny cross member bolts in place loosely: The tranny is coming out soon. Before you ask: I needed the tranny in place to move the engine, otherwise the engine would be hanging on the mounts only, and not move or try to fall etc.
The engine now is mounted in the correct place, and there are three bolts per engine mount to frame vice two SS ones. My Z bar will now be straight, so I need to order a new ball stud for the engine mount for the Z bar as the offset I welded up is no longer needed.
Third picture is when we stopped after moving the engine back, with the old motor mount, mounted in the correct place.
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Discussion Starter #306 (Edited)
Remember the HEI issue? I have 1/2" of clearance!
Other notes: I loosened and pulled back on the top rad hose and retightened the clamp before we moved the engine back. the bottom hose had plenty of slack.
The fuel line to fuel pump clamp now is resting on the frame, I need only loosen and rotate it.

With the engine in place correctly when I install the headers and exhaust it we be final.
As is my pattern, I get making progress and forget to stop and take pictures. Sorry .
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Discussion Starter #307 (Edited)
Forgot to post the picture of the motor mounts .. here ya go. you can see the hole pattern is smaller on one side and wider on the other. look at where the old one and new ones touch.
motor mount.jpg
ok-
motor mount.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #308
few more pics.
1. fuel pump inlet now clears the frame.
2/3. new MM on DS. you can see the arrow to the left where the hole was drilled and the pattern where the old mount was bolted down. If you look carefuly you can see the mouts was up about 3/4" higher than it should have ben. this resulted in my engine sitting crocked.
4. PS new mount.
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motor mount DS new.jpg
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Discussion Starter #309
the mount ears now sit in the notches in the clamshell and the mounts extend over the frame....I know this looks wrong, but that's how it is supposed to be....
I would have liked to painted the clamshells but no time. they do look better without
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the stacks of washers....LOL
 

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Looking good!
Be sure to check your "Cooling Fan to Radiator Shroud" clearances... just in case the shroud was positioned based on the previous set-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #311
Looking good!
Be sure to check your "Cooling Fan to Radiator Shroud" clearances... just in case the shroud was positioned based on the previous set-up.
Oh yeah! I checked the fan before I moved the engine to see where it sat in the shroud. It was up inside it and a bit high. Now it sits just outside and near centered.
 

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Discussion Starter #312
Saturday I worked on my wife's 2007 335i, replaced the PCV valve. BMW does not sell a PVC valve, they expect you to buy a complete calve cover, which is U shaped and has some internal PVC lines, but that's 800 bucks and you have to remove the fuel lines, spark plugs, all kinds of stuff. I found an aftermarket one for 100 bucks. 2.5 hour job as you still have to remove a lot of interferences. Why? its burning oil, 1 Qt. every 450 miles and this is the most likely and easiest fix. That went well so I jumped into the Nova:
It was already up on the lift and time to removed the tranny. My friend came over and we put a screw jack under it and added some pressure to remove the cross member. In the past this has ben a major hassle. Man the cross member sure comes out nice and easy when you have the correct body bushings in the correct place. then we lowered the screw jack. Unfortunately when I did that I heard a noise like a thick plastic breaking: It was the distributer against the firewall. screwed the jack back up. Now what? we cant lower the car, cant work on it... hmmm. I put another screw jack with a 6 x 6 block under the oil pan and we then removed the tranny. tried to lower the screw jack but same issue I got my 8' ladder and climbed up and over the fender and removed the distributer, trying to not break the power wires etc. even then the motor s PS head wanted to rest against ( crush) the heater hose nipple at the firewall, so I shimmed the PS head to the firewall with a section of 2 x 4. Lowered the car so I can work on the floor pans. That's what happens when you put the engine back where it is supposed to be....LOL. I think I might need a distributer cap....small price to pay. I was tired after this so called it a day.

Amazon came Saturday while I we were in the shop, of coarse they deliver to the house , regardless of my special instructions… I had ordered a belt sander that came with clamps to mount to a bench and extra belts. 40 bucks. So rather than calling it a day I set it up to use to "machine" my headers.
headers ( only the PS) are bowed out at the ends. .025+ ". Jegs sent me 2 pair, both passenger side headers were bowed. Finally I said whatever I'll get them machined… but my machine shop said his planer broke five years ago and he didn't get it fixed. shoulda asked first, huh?
Now I must admit I'm not a great or even a good woodworker. I bough this belt sander and read 18" x 3"
So dumbass me thought great, 18" of surface area , Ill grind down the header in about 5 minutes...
well 18" is the circumference of the belt not the linear surface area. Ends up about 6-7" of surface area.
It worked out ok. I clamped it down, turned it up and locked the throttle( which I made sure it had...a trigger lock).
using a straight edge and a feeler gauge as I went along I fed the high areas of the flange into the belt using the tubes as handles and trying to keep it as straight as I could. I worked one end until the tube got hot, then the other, then stopped and took measurements. Once I had a system down I stopped and finished Sunday.
Three 60 grit belts later and the gap is down to .010 in the middle and tight to .005 out towards both ends. I was starting to dig in unevenly so I stopped and cleaned up. then painted the flange , let it dry, the ran a stone over it to see where the high spots are. Not to bad. I think the gasket will seal. Put the header back in the rather large " parts to be put on the car"
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pile. here's a couple pics :

I dropped off the tranny at the local shop this am. went over the issues: broken tooth 1st gear, slips/ grinds out/in 3rd, speedometer wont follow acceleration. Also please replace tail shaft bushing and add double lip seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #313 (Edited)
This weekend I put the Z bar ball stud in the engine block ...mostly so I wouldn't loose it.... as I wont be working n the clutch/ tranny for some time yet. . Then I removed the fuel line brackets and pulled the fuel line away from the work area. Decided to replace the fuel line, and all brackets/ hdwe, soon.
I have ben trying different tools and blades to cut the sheet metal out. My 4.5" Eastwood seems to work the best with a metal cutting blade from HF. I'm working on the passenger side back, and the rear floor pans. I've learned to cut into the good metal a bit rather than trying to find the edge of rust: otherwise you just keep blowing holes as you try to weld.
First I Marked and cut out the rear metal, making the cuts more square and also cut away from the area where I had cut into the frame(OPPS), so I can weld the slit. I knew I'd probably just make the hole bigger if I tried t weld it so I fiddled around with all the copper I had to make a heat sink. I clamped in the piece that fit and welded the seam on the first one. The second one, I had to hold the copper with one hand and weld with the other, while laying down, propped up on one elbow. but I got it. Then I used my die grinder and cleaned it up all nice, just like I actually knew what I am doing!.
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Discussion Starter #315 (Edited)
Next I cut marked and cut out the floor pan. I could tell by the sound and rate of cut/ force required that I was cutting into good metal all around. It was spot welded into the frame at the rear base, so with a chisel and force I busted them out and the panel came out. I tried not to distort it to much as I need I
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t for the template. My cuts aren't the best but getting better. I used my die grinder to cleanup the exposed frame and old spot welds on the frame as seen in the middle of the middle picture. . I robbed the goodwill pile of all the pillows.....including the USCG patchwork you see here.
 

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Discussion Starter #316
I used my new nibbler to cut the rear section of 60" long floor pan I bought, I used the old pan to mark the new one. I knew the new one would be too big all around and figured that would be fine, I'd trim it in as I had seen on u tube/ other places. .I used the nibbler to make the rough cut as well. The term fit and fiddle are apt. I measured, (2X) cut , trimmed with my body saw. die grinder etc. The nibbler is far to aggressive for final fitment. Then I remeasured etc. 20-30 times. Then I cut on the wrong side of the line and now I have 8" x 3/8" gap to fill. Anyway, learning as I go. Learning I should have cut one big section out vice the funky pattern I made.
Using the old pan for a pattern.
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taking in place. I gotta grind a lot now....lol

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Big gap to fil in. lucky for me I have strips I cut and the copper/magnetic backings to help fic this snafu
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Turn the heat up/down. same with wire feed, If I had better fitment the gaps would be even and so would my welds....
practice practice
 

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Discussion Starter #317
This past weekend I had a few hours to weld, well grind mostly. I made a patch for the gaps and went to work tacking and button welding them in. Sunday afternoon all of sudden the welder started acting up, lots of splatter and popping, the wire was basically dripping down like candle wax dripping vice actually welding. I adjusted the heat and speed to no avail. I glanced at the gas regulator and gee 0 psi. Oh maybe I eft the bottle closed? Nope. empty. I must have left the bottle open at some point. I heard gas running earlier so it must have just ran out.

SO: new note next to "Turn off air compressor", " Turn off welding gas". got a new bottle yesterday.
here's a couple pics of my progress. Its not how I wanted or planned, as I wanted a nice flush replacement piece(s) . It will be strong and safe, no holes, seam sealer paint etc. I will also clean all welds under the car and Paint/ undercoat.
I went ahead and cut out the next piece for under the seat and there it was made shorter then needed so I have a 1" gap between the seat floor nd the feet floor. I'm going to overlay part of the seat floor, vice trying t get a perfect fir...the bends and angles are beyond where I am currently at. Ill post that part of th
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e project up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #318 (Edited)
Update. I have learned that 48 year old metal, although not rusted, sounds good when tapped on, can be fatigued. You will know this when you attempt to weld it as it immediately surrenders all metallic integrity and blows a big hole in the worse area and angle. I also learned that the Eastwood weld thru primer is anything but. I initially thought it was my inexperience with the welding settings but I removed the primer and gee, I can weld. I called them and they were aware and refunded my $.
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I am learning and its getting better. I finished welding in the RR floorpan and the area under the right rear seat. I tacked in the seat pan and test fit the seat as the pan includes a new hook. I elected to overlay the seat floor and weld it in as fitting and welding in a perfect patch without epic failure is not in my skillset. The seat hook placement measurements were good but the seat doesn't fit well on that side, so I laid it out on the floor and sure enough it is bent. PO had a large Bass amp wedged in there and I assume that's the culprit. Its fits better, maybe i'll replace it down the road. I welded the pan in and next day I used POR 15 seam sealer around the floor pan and the seat floor welds. In the picture it looks pretty bad I t doesn't look that bad in person : for some reason it was bubbling up and the camera flash brought out the imperfections, made it look bad. Once I touch it up and paint the entire floor with zero rust/ Por 15 and cover it with insulation and carpet….. It wont be a concern, unless one of youse guys brings up this picture. Moving over to the DS rear floorpan, I cleaned up the surface rust, and no surprise more holes and rot. so its coming out next. I have the Sheetmetal. I plan on overlaying the piece I cut out and welding it in, vice trying to fit it flush.
 

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Discussion Starter #319 (Edited)
This weekend I installed the steering column support bracket for a 1969 Camaro in my 73 Nova. PN GIS-1001E from Ground up/ PN 1001E Dynacorn (supplier). It’s available at other sources. I forgot to measure the distance from the bottom of the steering wheel to the floor before I started. Ugh. I did take a bunch of before and after pictures. Before:
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