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1972 Nova - 4 door - straight 6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '72 hasn't ran in almost 15 years. I took the dash and instrument cluster out to deal with rust/dirt/webs. The car does not start so while i have everything out of the interior, is there anything i should check before putting it back together? Not troubleshooting the starting issue, but like should i do the heater core and/or anything i should do with the heater box etc...I can't start it so i don't know what's good or bad and i'd hate to put it all back together and then find out "oh i should have done this and that..."
 

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Well, if you've got it all apart might as well address your electric connections. 50 years is a long time for corrosion, junk and funk to build up on those. just some simple sandpaper or even some electric contact cleaner should do it and add fresh grease that way any gremlins in the dash will be headed off for another 50 years...
 

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1972 Nova - 4 door - straight 6
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121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, if you've got it all apart might as well address your electric connections. 50 years is a long time for corrosion, junk and funk to build up on those. just some simple sandpaper or even some electric contact cleaner should do it and add fresh grease that way any gremlins in the dash will be headed off for another 50 years...
Does this count as a gremlin lol
Wood Gas Metal Auto part Machine
 

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If you have the cluster out I strongly recommend replacing the following. Especially the printed circuit. I told myself I'm going to save all this money. The potential for bad connections and broken circuit traces due to the circuit delamination will drive you crazy. I pulled it out 3 times before I got it right. Soldering cracked circuit traces and cleaning all contact points. Even after checking continuity on every circuit you put it back in and it's something else. Not worth it. Also ditch the bulbs for LED equivalents.


 

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1972 Nova - 4 door - straight 6
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have the cluster out I strongly recommend replacing the following. Especially the printed circuit. I told myself I'm going to save all this money. The potential for bad connections and broken circuit traces due to the circuit delamination will drive you crazy. I pulled it out 3 times before I got it right. Soldering cracked circuit traces and cleaning all contact points. Even after checking continuity on every circuit you put it back in and it's something else. Not worth it. Also ditch the bulbs for LED equivalents.


I took the cluster apart and cleaned it all up but have no way of testing anything since the car doesn't run. I'll definitely replace the board and lights. If i buy those new sockets, what type led goes in there, is it like a 194 or 168?
 

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The sockets are just replacements of the stock sockets without all the corrosion. You can buy LED's with the same base as the 194 and 168. They fit just like the bulb did. All of my problems with the cluster was just solid electrical connections.
 

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Funny thing- I replaced the dash bulbs in my ‘Vette with LED’s and noticed the ammeter was showing an undercharge. I checked with a Fluke and the charge voltage was right at 13.8v at idle.
WTH?
It turns out the circuit for the ammeter has the resistance from a filament bulb calculated into it.
Put a filament bulb back in all of the idiot light circuits and all is well.
LED’s for dash lights-good
LED’s for idiot lights/circuit-bad

Go to Superbrightleds.com for the bulbs. I almost got suckered into the Corvette specialty shop LED light “kit” for $89.00.
Super right had better bulbs for about $15 IIRC
 
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