Well you could knock off the welded on hinge and use a bolt on. You would need to make a plate to go in the back of the pillar to bolt the hinge to. I would not recommend just using nuts as they could pull through the pillar if the door was hit. I would check the pillar out though. Maybe the car needs a pull. If you shim the door out, You may have a problem with fender alignment as well as the weatherstrip not touching the pillar if the door is shimmed out to much. I have been in the business for over 20 years and I can say I have never shimmed a door hinge. To be honest its kind of a hack job if you ask me. What is the door doing to make you think the pillar is in? Do you have any pics of the area?
It just looks like a bulge in the corner, hard to explain. I will take a couple of photos when I get off work in the morning. I know it would be a hack job, I"m just tired of finding all this crap wrong and holding up the process. I know the door was hard to open before and the cowl vent thingy was dented in some. It must have taken a whack in that side previously. Thanks for the support.
Get some pics of it as I am curious to see what it looks like. I have known guys who have shimmed a door out but had problems with water leaks and wind leaks. I would hate to see you go through all that work just to have a car that leaks.
im curious to know if you can get a 70-72 nova doors and knock off the welded hinge and put on a bolt on hinge so i can use it on my 69 nova? can that be done? has anyone modified 70-72 doors to bolt on a 69 nova? im noticeing there a lot more 70-72 doors out there than there are 68 and 69 doors.....
It can be done but it's best to find a donor car to get your hinge pillar parts from. The doors do interchange. My Son's 70 has bolt on hinge halfs on the hinge pillar and he used 73 doors with the welded on hinge half and it worked fine. These welded hinges are a big PITA if you're doing a show car and looking for perfect alignment. In the quest for perfect alignment with the welded hinge design I often just reskin the doors- first step is to fit the skinless bare door frame to the body then attach the skin and monitor alignment. I have a 72 I'll be tearing into soon and plan to use 69 hinge pillar parts and bolt on hinges.
For my resto, my original doors needed way too much work and it was just easier to find some donors. My car has welded hinges originally. Drivers door I found was great shape, no rust and welded hinge. good to go. Passenger door I found had bolted hinges. Not sure if this is obvious but all I did was install the bolted hinge (on the door) to my welded hinge (on the body). worked out perfectly. Pin alignment is the same. So what, I have one door with 100% welded hinges and the other with some bolts on the door side. Not a show car so I don't mind the mix-match
I'm starting to think I am panicking prematurely. In this photo of the door on the car, the fit looks pretty good. The other pics show the situation I mentioned as compared to the drivers door hinge. I'm wondering if the factory did that to adjust the door.
Isnt the inside of the pillar open behind the hinge? If it is, I would take a steel block and a hammer and knock it back out to the correct shape. I am pretty sure the inside of the pillar has an opening.
That pillar is punched in at the hinge mount, a sledge with a very large punch or similar might knock it out. Or you may be able to push it out with a port-o-power if you push from the other pillar-just make sure you distribute the force on the other pillar well so it doesn't create any damage on that side. Or, weld some pull tabs on the hinge and pull it out- a simple come-a-long type winch and a tree may work. With the pressure on you need to tap about the buckle area to make the metal come back easier and take a set. The worst part of the whole job is testfitting the door again and again if you don't have a measuring tool to monitor results.