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So I'm not all that knowllagable (can't even spell it) on paint. why are your edges looking like unsprayed metal. I mean don't u usally spray edges first then flat parts. again a question.:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #82
No paint yet. That black is just the e-coat from the new sheetmetal on that side. The bare metal at the gaps is from where the sheetmetal was worked to improve gap fitment in those areas. Some of the e-coat was removed as the welding was done to add metal, etc. I only wished it was one color all over. One of these days maybe :)
 

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Looks awesome in regards to the stance. When you put the front bumper and other stuff it may drop a bit more.

Thats what happened to mine and after driving it, it dropped a bit more (with 550lb springs)

So I had to readjust the coilovers and I went with front fender lip 23 7/8" and rear 24 1/4". (Slight rake) Front crossmember at 4 1/8"

I left the rake due to mine being a grocery getter lol. (Driver/Cruiser) When trunk is full (of shopping and gas in tank) I get that look you have for the rear lol.

Those headers look sick! (with those crazy bends)

What wheel diameters are you going with? Not rim diameter, but actual tire height.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Thanks guys. Been a long long time since this heap could be pushed around. Feels good to make a little visual progress.

Tire diameters are roughly 25.3" and 26.3". Up front is a Nitto 555 spec'd at 235/45-17. In the rear is a Nitto 555R at 305/35-18. One of these days I'd like to go wider up front.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Wow i think you found a very great shop, the work is inspiring any chance you could share the cost of the work i guess its 20 to 25k is that even close ? you always see these builds but nobody wants to share the real cost numbers.
Generally speaking I'd say You are in the ball park for a large amount of sheetmetal replacement.

I always wondered too about costs. The reality is each project is different, each shop is different, etc. Hourly rates also vary by shop and region of the country. Just take something like a single quarter panel replacement. The mitchel estimating books I think have that at somewhere around 1k-1500 assuming some hourly rate that I don't remember. I'm sure you coul find a shop to do a qtr panel for that. But then you gotta think about what else they run into and how they'll deal with that if at all. How much patience are they gonna have when a repop panel needs some work.

I errored on the side of caution and went with someone extremely talented with a crazy good resume well beyond the level of my build. Sheetmetal and fab work is the foundation and must be right. I decided i could stretch the timeline or skimp other places. You can change a less than ideal set of brakes later much cheaper and easier than deciding to redo a crappy panel replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Here we are on 1.1.2013 for the year's first installment of Expensive Mistakes and How not to Build a Car :willy: .

So back in early December my Autorad showed up. I must say they are very nice pieces and well worth the wait for a quality fabricated component. Around the same time my V/A Frontrunner came in that I picked up from Matts during the Black Friday sale. Anyway, now that the holidays are over I made some time to try and fit it up. Radiator/fan and accessory drive fit is something I've been worrying about since summer. There just isn't much clearance on the Novas between the big block and core support. I needed all the space I could get for this setup and hoped that the Autorad would yield what I needed. This was basically my only bolt-on type option available.

Long story short, it isn't going to work. I have 6.5" from block face to the back of the fan motors and I need closer to 7" for the Frontrunner. As luck would have it the passenger's side fan motor is basically right in line with where the A/C compressor is positioned. That also happens to be the longest dimension with the Frontrunner. It looks like I only netted about .5" extra clearance with the Autorad setup.

I guess now I have to think this over and decide where to go from here. I think I have basically 2 options. Well 3 if you count pushing the whole project off in the river :wow: .

-Option 1 is to scrap the big block plan and go LSx. I'd have to sell off some parts and likely take a bath on those. I haven't opened the Frontrunner so maybe I could exchange it. This radiator is single pass which also presents a little problem for the LSx option.

-Option 2 is to build custom frame stands that move the engine back .5". There is plenty of header and firewall clearance to do that. It actually would help gain clearance for the headers around the steering box. This would require not only custom frame stands but also a custom trans crossmember. Another potential benefit with this is it just might get the header tube far back enough to also clear a Ridetech Tru-turn setup.

This big block is fighting me all the way it seems...

Here is a shot showing how much an Autorad gains you in radiator surface area. HUGE difference in opening size versus the OE style "heavy duty" core support.


Here it is with the radiator installed. The condenser mounts directly to the radiator.


Here you can see better what I mentioned earlier in the thread about the Autorad radiator mounting surface not being so far back. The tape line is pulled between the center line of the rear most fender mounting locations on both the OE and Autorad support. You can see the Autorad radiator mounts .5" forward of the OE setup.

 

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WOW I have sat here and read thru this 2 year (so far) build flipping page to page like it was a Stephen King novel.... not able to stop... OMG INCREDIBLE work. Dont get discouraged now... Stay strong... lol you are on the down hill side of it bro. I know it may not seem like it.... but you really are. Ill tell you what some guys here told me... take a step back sip a cold one relax and come back to it. She will still be here... waiting.. Good luck on an awesome build :yes::yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #94
A little update. After having moved the engine back 3/4" I mocked up the Frontrunner setup today to check clearances. At first I was mega PO'd and couldn't figure out what had happened. The A/C compressor still hit the radiator fan motors even though previous measurements indicated it *should* fit. Anyway, I pulled a block-face to end of A/C compressor measurement to check against the V/A quoted dimension. It was off and then I noticed the pulleys weren't lined up. Turns out the V/A Frontrunner diagram in the instructions clearly has the spacer in FRONT when it actually goes in the rear. The text of the instructions states the rear too. I moved the spacer and the compressor clears. Still extremely tight though. The spacer fills the gap you see there at the rear of the compressor. There is a spacer on both sides. I just have one side in because it was too tight with the tape on this side :).

You can see from the pics that I don't have the compressor front cover or tensioner cover installed. Primarily because I didn't feel like taking the radiator back out again to put it on. The tensioner is the closest point at ~1/8" of clearance. The fan motor to compressor clearance is closer to 1/4".

I'd like another 1/4" but I've got to figure out where to get that from. One of the header tubes is close enough to the steering box that I think another 1/4" setback might cause it to contact. We'll see when I get the mounts build.

So I did run into another unexpected clearance issue. The PS pump reservoir tank is too close to the UCA. This is a Jones Racing aluminum pump with an extra capacity fab'd aluminum tank. Really cool piece. Too bad it won't clear :(. I'm gonna see about getting a tank made without the bung on the side. I think that will work. Otherwise maybe a less blinged out OE style PS pump is in order. This pump measures 5 1/2" from pump shaft centerline to the outside edge of the tank. I think the OE style plastic tanks are a little narrower.




Here are some shots of the firewall after the setback. Seems a little tight. That Unilite distributor is pretty small so I'm almost sure the firewall will need to be modified for clearance.



Updated shot of tie-rod to header clearance after pushing engine back. I think a Ridetech TruTurn might clear now.
 
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