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I think the Holley carb has one 3/8" port on the back if the carb... and you have already have this port hooked up to your PCV valve (which is correct).
Go ahead and connect the power brake booster to the fitting you installed into the rear of the intake manifold... and insert a "T" fitting into the 3/8" hose that goes to the brake booster and connect a hose from the trans vacuum modulator to the 5/16" port on the "T".
 

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P.S.... I noticed this in a previous post.
I basically just gave it a tune up with the help of a friend and changed all of the vacuum hoses, fuel pump, fuel hoses, added a glass fuel filter,...
I am not a fan of using a glass fuel filter (especially anywhere in the engine compartment). If the filter were to hit something and break while you were driving, you could have a pretty bad fire under your hood in very little time.

It does not look as cool, but much safer... and something to think about.
 

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Gotta agree with Rifraf about the glass filter. They shouldn't even make those for automobiles. Make sure no matter what filter you decide on that you install it correctly, there should be arrows on it showing fuel flow through it. The arrows should point towards the carb. I am interested in knowing if the brakes are fixed now that you have the booster attached correctly? What about the tranny? Did you hook up the vacuum? Did you fill the tranny to the fill mark? How many quarts did you end up putting into it?
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Ok. I have another non glass filter that I can switch it out. It's funny I was nervous about it as well. So now I'm convinced.

I only started the car for maybe 5 minutes and I was able to pump the pedal up. Felt way way better. I only moved it back and forth about two feet and it seemed like it was stoping as it should.

My local auto stores didn't have the tee I needed for the vacuum modulator. Had to order it on Amazon. The lead time is 2weeks.

So far I would say I've put 2 quarts of fluid in and the oil barely registers on the dip stick still.

Is it possible the vacuum modulator not being hooked up is messing with the dip stick level? I don't want to add to much?
 

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Do you have a Home Depot or similar store near you?
They also have a brass version:
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Do you have a Home Depot or similar store near you?
They also have a brass version:
I do. However the middle port needs to be 5/16.

Does anyone sell a step down hose that might work for me?
 

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You might want to try Autozone or Advance Auto Parts to see if they have a 3-way plastic barbed T fitting.
401213
 

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You probably need to put another quart in if it is just starting to read on the stick. Are you checking it when the oil is hot? You will need to run the engine for a couple of minutes before checking. Like I said earlier, the torque converter probably holds about 12 quarts. It could have been low when you picked it up. No leaks underneath right? Glad to hear the brakes are working better. You mentioned you had not lights. Do you mean no lights at all or just headlights?
 

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Discussion Starter #94
So I got a new modulator, vacuum line, fluid, and Advance Auto had a step down tee. It's all hooked up.
401223


I got everything hooked up and the filled the Trans up to the full line.

So I'm in the driveway going back and forth maybe two three times Just getting a feel for the car. I'm in reverse backing up and the car dies. Doesn't start back up now. It It was running for maybe 10-15 minutes while I filled the car up with transmission fluid.

Now what....
 

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you mean it cranks and won't start or is it completely dead? Stupid question but do you have gas in the tank? Gas getting to the carb? What happens if you pour a little fuel in the carb and try to start it?
 

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So I'm in the driveway going back and forth maybe two three times Just getting a feel for the car. I'm in reverse backing up and the car dies. Doesn't start back up now. It It was running for maybe 10-15 minutes while I filled the car up with transmission fluid. Now what....
With the engine NOT running, remove the air cleaner lid. Be sure the choke's butterfly blade is open. While looking down into the primary bores of the carb, push on the throttle... you should see some fuel squirt out of the carb's squirters. If no fuel, something is restricting the fuel getting to the carb. Did you install the fuel filter in the correct direction? Some have an arrow that should point towards the flow to the carb.

Next, remove the gas cap and try and start the car. It is possible that you may have a non-vented gas cap (or a clogged vented gas cap) that is not letting air into the gas tank as your engine is running (causing a vacuum to form within your gas tank). If your engine runs ok without gas cap, replace with a vented gas cap made for your year's Nova.

If you are still not able to get the engine started, pull a spark plug wire and install a spare spark plug into the wire's plug socket. Hold the threaded end of the spark plug to a grounded surface within the engine bay (intake manifold will do). Crank the engine at look for a spark at the electrode. Do not hold spark plug away from ground while cranking the engine. You may get a big jolt!

If no spark, we need to start looking at the distributor (wires properly connected to the cap terminals? bad coil?, bad module?)

Let us know what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Cranks buy
you mean it cranks and won't start or is it completely dead? Stupid question but do you have gas in the tank? Gas getting to the carb? What happens if you pour a little fuel in the carb and try to start it?
Cranks but won't start. Kinda making a noise I can't explain. Sounds like something is hollow lol I know that sounds stupid. I will put more gas in the carb and see what happens
 

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Would be good if you could video it while you try to crank it and post it on here so we can here the noise it is making.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Ok. So I have fuel squirting into the carb. The car ran for a bit without the gas cap. Fuel filter is definitely the correct way.

Then there was backfiring at the carb.

I am trying to upload videos
 

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... Then there was backfiring at the carb.
Have you had a chance to check the ignition timing.
Shoot for around 14° BTDC @ idle (vacuum advance disconnected).

If your engine is still backfiring thru the carb after the correct timing has been set, I recommend you purchase a spark plug piston stop and confirm TDC with the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the timing tab lining up. There are a lot of articles and youtube videos on how to find TDC with a piston stop. We are also here to assist with advice as needed.

You should also do a compression check of all of the cylinders. Look for any cylinders with low/incosistant pressure. You may find some of your valves are out of adjustment... or even worse, the cam my have "wiped" a couple lobes.
 
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