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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Could there be a leak coming out of the intake where the distributor is? It's hard to tell in the pic but it looks juicy.
Yes... that is a possible spot for an oil leak. There should be a round gasket between the bottom of the distributor base and the intake manifold. Sometime this gasket may not seat correctly when the distributor is installed... or it could be missing.
If the distributor wires were not in the way, we might be able to see this gasket in your photo.
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Before going any further, I would recommend that you clean up all of the external oil on the engine with some spray can brake cleaner and reread post #293. Just because you see some external oil in a particular spot does not mean that is where the oil is leaking from. The leaking oil will move as your driving the car.

If the leak is coming from the base of the distributor, let us know and we can help you with the next steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #302
I will clean the engine so I can pinpoint the leak.

If I wanted to clean the engine/bay how do I go about that? Can I just cover the Alt and distributor with bags and give it a shot of degreaser and then hose it off?
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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If I wanted to clean the engine/bay how do I go about that? Can I just cover the Alt and distributor with bags and give it a shot of degreaser and then hose it off?
That's the way I've always have done it.
Be sure to also remove the air cleaner and completely cover the carburetor with a plastic bag.
Just follow the directions on the can of engine degreaser.
 

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Discussion Starter #304
New carb coming tomorrow supposedly.... We will see!

Got an eBay special. Air cleaner
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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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The new are cleaner looks great!
403858

BUT... after screwing the threaded rod all the way into the carb, there should only be about 1/2" - 3/4" of threaded rod showing above the air cleaner lid when the air cleaner is installed on the carb... just enough threaded rod showing to tighten the wing nut that hold the air cleaner in place (see image below). If you have too much threaded rod showing above the air cleaner, you run the risk of damaging your hood when going to shut it.
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P.S. I hope the new carb works out well for you and solves your engine issues. You will probably need to do some minor adjustments to the new carb to achieve satisfactory engine performance (float levels, idle mixture screws, choke, etc). Just follow all of the installation and adjustment procedures that are included with the carb.

I have a feeling that your existing carb may have had a blown power valve that was causing your "overly rich" conditions.
 
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Discussion Starter #306
The new are cleaner looks great!
View attachment 403858
BUT... after screwing the threaded rod all the way into the carb, there should only be about 1/2" - 3/4" of threaded rod showing above the air cleaner lid when the air cleaner is installed on the carb... just enough threaded rod showing to tighten the wing nut that hold the air cleaner in place (see image below). If you have too much threaded rod showing above the air cleaner, you run the risk of damaging your hood when going to shut it.
View attachment 403859

P.S. I hope the new carb works out well for you and solves your engine issues. You will probably need to do some minor adjustments to the new carb to achieve satisfactory engine performance (float levels, idle mixture screws, choke, etc). Just follow all of the installation and adjustment procedures that are included with the carb.

I have a feeling that your existing carb may have had a blown power valve that was causing your "overly rich" conditions.
Yes I will end up cutting it down to size. It's nice that I have enough to with with.

I have seen a bunch of videos on adjusting carbs but had no luck with mine. I'll have to post what I do for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #309
The VA for the distributor needs a constant vacuum correct? The port I have for new new carb is not. But I can check another.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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The VA for the distributor needs a constant vacuum correct? The port I have for new new carb is not.
For now, just connect your distributor's vacuum advance to the vacuum port in the carbs metering block (as shown below).
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The port (covered with the black rubber nipple) just below the primary/front fuel bowl is a "Full Time" vacuum port.
But as stated above, DO NOT connect your distributor's vacuum advance to this vacuum port at this time... we can get into the details of that later (I did mention the reason for this in post #21).
For now, lets just see how the new carb works without changing anything else.
I can help you with the distributor adjustments needed to use the "Full Time" vacuum advance port after we get the engine running correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #311
Ok so the carb is on. And the car drives way way better. Even sounds and smells better. Haha

But. It still sputters at 60ish

Can't get the car over 2100 RPM without sputtering.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Ok... now disconnect your vacuum advance canister hose from the distributor and plug the hose with something. Test drive the car again with the VA disconnected.
I want to see if you're getting to much vacuum advance at cruise.
 

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Discussion Starter #313
Much much better. But still the occasional sputtering. But like way less. Got passed 60 and also higher rpms
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Ok... looks like your making some progress!
Leave the vacuum advance disconnected and reset your initial timing to 14° BDTC at idle (aprox 800-850 RPM).
Test drive again with VA still disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #315
Is there a way to adjust throttle cable? It's pulling just a touch can't get to 800-850. It's like 1000
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Is there a way to adjust throttle cable? It's pulling just a touch can't get to 800-850. It's like 1000
Are you saying that if you turn the idle speed screw (located by the throttle bracket) counterclockwise, the rpm's do not drop? NOTE: The engine should be warm up, choke open, and fast idle cam disengaged from the fast idle screw when adjusting the throttle idle speed screw.
If this is what is is happening, see requests below.

I think that the bracket that holds the back portion of the throttle cable needs to move forward... and I'm looking for another hole to mount the rear cable bracket so it can be moved forward on the metal bracket that is attached to the back of the intake manifold.

Can you post a better photos of how the throttle cable is attached to the carb... and the bracket (attached to the intake manifold) that holds it. Can you remove the throttle return spring when you take these photos.
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Discussion Starter #317
Ok. I'm going to have to send pictures after work.

Even with the car warmed up and the highest I can get the screw my lowest rpm is about 950-1000. I have to push the throttle down by hand to get it lower.

The choke is working also. So that is good.

Before my vacuum on the carb was 15 now it's 19-20. Normal? I checked because now the brakes feel way better.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Even with the car warmed up and the highest I can get the screw my lowest rpm is about 950-1000. I have to push the throttle down by hand to get it lower.
Okay... I'm mainly interested in seeing a cleaner photo of what this bracket looks like with the return spring removed (photo of same side that is shown below).
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I think there is another hole drilled into this bracket that is in front of (towards the carb) the nut & bolt that is currently holding the cable bracket... and return spring in place. I just need to confirm this with a cleaner photo so we can discuss the easiest way to move the rear portion of the throttle cable bracket forward towards the carb.

Before my vacuum on the carb was 15 now it's 19-20. Normal? I checked because now the brakes feel way better.
Yes... this is great! A higher vacuum level at idle is always better.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Yup... that's what I thought. But before you move the rear cable bracket forward, slowly turn your idle speed screw (at the throttle) clockwise until you just start to see the throttle move. Because you had turned this screw counterclockwise, you may have lowered your idle speed too much without knowing it (due to the throttle cable being pulled too tight). After you have moved the rear throttle cable bracket forward, you can readjust your idle to a lower RPM once your engine is warmed up.

To position the rear throttle cable bracket forward towards the carb, move the nut & bolt that is holding the rear cable bracket to the open hole that is in front of where the nut & bolt is now. That should let you move the cable bracket forward.

To adjust to the correct position, have someone sit inside the car and push the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold.
  • If you are able to open the throttle at the carb further by hand pushing the throttle, you need to readjust the rear cable bracket back towards the firewall a little.
  • If the throttle cable feels excessively tight with throttle completely open... or gas pedal in the car does not touch the floor with the throttle completely open, you need to adjust the rear cable bracket closer to the carb.
Hook your throttle return spring into the open hole in the rear of the bracket attached to the intake. This will give you a little more tension on your return spring.
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Once you have positioned the rear throttle cable bracket correctly, start your car and warm up your engine.
Lower the RPMs to 800-850 and set the timing to 14° BTDC (VA disconnected and plugged).
Test drive your car with the VA still disconnected and plugged.
 
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