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ok well past few weeks been eventfull lol i have had to pull a 1 ton truck out of my brothers yard with my nova also had to pull a few other things out of the mud as well and think i might of fried the th350 as it does not feel right the then my wifes caprice took a crap on us and its a 1991 i was putting in a different engine when i found the fuel lines were cracked so were gonna junk the caprice and im keepin the engine and trans the engine is a 9c1 350 and the trans is a 700R4 and im wanting to put it in the nova also i am putting in a older 12 bolt rear that has 3:31 gears and i have an l31 vortec 350 that i got for the nova so how ggod will this do for me and how much of a pain is the tranny swap going to be
 

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For my g ride im swaping the turbo.350 for a 700r4 and i think the trans crossmember need tp b moved back and drive shaft shorten
 

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The TH350 to TH700r4 swap isn't a big deal.
- Move the crossmember back
- Shorten the driveshaft
- Properly set up the throttle valve cable (NOT the same as the kick-down cable on your TH350)
- Adjust your shifter linkage

If you want to run a lock-up converter, there are a couple aftermarket kits which use speed or vacuum pressure, or a manual selection.
 

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The cross member will be the most work. Just moving it back is not enough, the mounting tab position needs to be changed. Keep in mind the engine and trans are not centered in the frame. Measure the offset of the pad on the cross member before cutting it off.

The 75 - 81 F body after market cross member will work for the 700 trans.

Click on photo for link

 

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Its also a pain with the exhaust. Using original exhaust, I had to make a bend around the pan. In Mexico the original didnt use catalyst converter, so I dont know if its the same in the US. Dont know about aftermarket exhausts.
 

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The cross member will be the most work. Just moving it back is not enough, the mounting tab position needs to be changed. Keep in mind the engine and trans are not centered in the frame. Measure the offset of the pad on the cross member before cutting it off.

The 75 - 81 F body after market cross member will work for the 700 trans.

Click on photo for link


Ouch $ 214 bucks for that? Better off making your own
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well looks like will be a lil work but not worried i was looking into doing the trans converter lockup with a manual toggle system lol but i am also wondering how i can make the tv cable work with out buying a $40 lil peice of metal for the corrector that is just plain ridiculous for a $2 peice of metal just because it has a tci name tag on it
 

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I posted this on another site about how I did my cross member:

http://www.novas.net/forums/showpost.php?p=141390&postcount=10

Info on the TV cable:

http://www.jakesperformance.com/TV_Cable_Setup_Info.html

I like the Rochesters so I used one off a 85-86 truck already set up for the TV.

^^Absolutely critical to have it right or you'll smoke the trans^^

I had to have my exhaust altered after the cross member was moved back.

Lock up on a toggle is going to be a PITA. You'll have to change it every time you downshift and every time you stop. There are a few cheap ways to make it work somewhat automatically. A quick Google search would get you what you need. At the urging of Jake from Jake's Performance I opted not to run a lock up converter.
 

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If I recall correctly, the factory pancake catalytic converter was far enough towards the passenger side that it didn't interfere (could be wrong) with the repositioned crossmember.

When I switched to true duals, I had to move the cats back a little bit closer to the tail of the tranny. Depending on your state/county, this may or may not satisfy the emissions requirements. By the letter of the (federal) law, you can't modify the location or number of catalysts your car came with, unless it could be ordered as a factory upgrade. For example, the 5.0 Mustangs came with dual catalysts, so you could upgrade an V6 LX if you wanted to. But, the disco Novas never came with two, so you technically can't change it. I actually had an inspector call me on that once.

Also, moving them further back could make them not function as well since the temp would be lower. Theoretically, at least.
 

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Also, for the TV cable, I eventually broke down and got that Bowtie Overdrives kit. I was never satisfied with the shift points or feel on the tranny before. It was a big improvement. For what it's worth...
 

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At the urging of Jake from Jake's Performance I opted not to run a lock up converter.
Duh!!! :doh:

I know why they said this. :yes:

They sell trannys! :rolleyes:

How much business would they have if YOU didn't but another! :turn:
 

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Duh!!! :doh:

I know why they said this. :yes:

They sell trannys! :rolleyes:

How much business would they have if YOU didn't but another! :turn:
I don't know if you're joking or being a jerk. Jake is a friend of mine. Are you really going to try an impune someone character to be funny? Do a search on "Jakeshoe" across the forums and you'll see he gives out a lot of advice and is generally well respected for his integrity.

He quit selling the 700r4 a while back because he's slammed on the 480LE orders. So much for the "selling another trans"

Lastly, I didn't get my trans from Jake. Too much in shipping. He helps me find the right stuff here in town to fix what I need to fix. He might build me a 700r4 if I asked but like he tells me it would cost too much by the time it got here.

Are we done trying to make a guy that goes out of his way to help people look like a crook?? I'm just trying to help a guy out since I've already done the swap a couple of times. I don't need the drama

What is the advantage of this? My last 700R4 locked up when it shifted to 4th and was trouble free the 6 years I drove it.
It's not a negative about the trans longevity either way. It's a preference. What he told me was the lock up was never quite right without an ECM to control it. You were left with a "sort off" fix.
 

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Now I got worried. As per Knuckle's suggestion I read Jake's excellent page on tv cable adjustment and realized my adjustment will be bad for the tranny if I dont get he right carb. Ive always known my low end adjust was forcing the tranny, but didnt know why.

My Quadrajet carb isnt original anyway so I really have to seek one compatible with TH700R4. Any tips on how to find one? I dont have a clue what cars came with a TH700 from the factory.:(
 

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So long as your throttle valve is completely forward inside the valve body at WOT, you won't hurt the transmission. Your partial throttle shifts may suck lf the geometry of the cable and the corresponding "arc" it makes from idle to WOT is incorrect. They make adapter plates for almost every major carb (incl the Quadrajet). I run a Holley, and had bought the Holley adapter plate, but still wasn't satisfied. So, I got the "TV Made EZ" kit from Bowtie Overdrives. It has an adjustable cam which lets you alter your partial throttle pressures, while maintaining correct geometry all the way through.

On a different note, I agree 100% with the comment about the tranny not behaving "quite right" without the ECM. That sums up my entire experience with the 700r4. Good solid tranny overall, but has never functioned exactly the way my bud's EFI '92 RS Camaro did back in the day. When this one bites the dust, I'm gonna think long and hard about switching to a manual.
 

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Dpack, where did you buy the adapter plates, do they have a website? I have a carb whiz guy that would install them for me.
 

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I don't know if you're joking or being a jerk. Jake is a friend of mine. Are you really going to try an impune someone character to be funny? Do a search on "Jakeshoe" across the forums and you'll see he gives out a lot of advice and is generally well respected for his integrity.

He quit selling the 700r4 a while back because he's slammed on the 480LE orders. So much for the "selling another trans"

Lastly, I didn't get my trans from Jake. Too much in shipping. He helps me find the right stuff here in town to fix what I need to fix. He might build me a 700r4 if I asked but like he tells me it would cost too much by the time it got here.

Are we done trying to make a guy that goes out of his way to help people look like a crook?? I'm just trying to help a guy out since I've already done the swap a couple of times. I don't need the drama.

Any well versed O.D. tranny tech will tell you that heat is the kiss of death to a tranny but especially to an O.D. tranny.

The "lock-up" feature in a convertor reduces heat.

This isn't rocket science it's fact.
 

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So long as your throttle valve is completely forward inside the valve body at WOT, you won't hurt the transmission. Your partial throttle shifts may suck lf the geometry of the cable and the corresponding "arc" it makes from idle to WOT is incorrect.
That is incorrect. The TV ramps pressures. If you're not getting full pressure or increased pressure as you apply torgue to the trans the clutches will slip and the trans will fail in short order. It has to be right all the time. The whole range of movement is just as important as WOT.

Jake's said:
The reason it is so important to have instant pressure rise off idle is because every time you accelerate from a stop, you transition from idle, no load, and low pressure to off idle, accelerating load PLUS torque converter multiplication, and hopefully more pressure.

A torque converter multiplies torque from the engine to the transmission input shaft. Maximum torque multiplication occurs at stall speed. Basically as your car is leaving the stop light. A moderate V8 street engine is making decent torque just off idle, even if only 100 lb/ft, this is multiplied to 200-250 lb/ft to the input shaft. The clutches will not clamp under power without proper pressure. If they slip slightly every time you accelerate from a stop, over a couple of thousand miles they fail.
 

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:confused: I think I meant what you said...

If you don't have full pressure at WOT, you'll burn up the tranny. If you have too great or too little pressure from idle to WOT, your shift points and feel will be adversely affected. This is caused by the plunger valve not traveling as designed in the valve body, which is caused by altering the geometry/travel of the TV cable from your pedal to the throttle. If you aren't using an OEM induction, you will require an adapter to ensure the correct travel.

My only reservation from Jake's description, is that the transmission is under load from the moment you put it in "Drive", as evident by the fact that the car will move forward on it's own with no additional throttle applied.
 
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