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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. I have a 70 with some 275 60/15s in the back. They fit but rub a little with any rear end articulation. It looks like the metal back there is pretty solid with the inner and outer wheel well, seems like it’d be difficult to roll and the paint is pretty old (Worries about cracking/ most likely some bondo on the outside).
Any big issues if I take a cutting wheel to it?
I can use a flapper wheel after to take off the edge.
Thoughts?
 

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Have you thought about just rolling the rear quarter panel lips instead of cutting them? Far less destructive and more structurally sound.

What size and backspace/offset wheels do you have with your 275/60R15's? I have the exact same tire size on the back of my car with very little rubbing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I’m running a 15x8 with 5.5 bs. I also have It lowered 1 inch on blocks. I use a spacer as well (about .25 inch), the inners rubbed really bad at first. The main issue is driveways, any type of small angle Entry/exit or when anyone is in the car with me is a problem. Don’t really have an option where I live in the middle of the city. Just getting my car out is a 4 point turn on the sidewalk.

I have about .25 inches before the spot weld if I cut. I’m worried if I try to roll it, I’ll have some expensive paint/bondo issues.
 

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I think I would use a 40 grit 4" flapper on an angle grinder. Back and forth, slowly. I live by the cut-off wheel but they can get out of control and give you unwanted collateral damage.
 

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Before you cut- are you 100% sure it is rubbing there and not a spot higher up in the wheel well? The reason I ask is I have been chasing the same issue on my drivers side on my 65. I though it was the wheel well lip, nope, found a spot higher up in the wheel well, better but still a bit of an issue.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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sfnova . . . . . . . a few years ago . . . . I DID Do just That . . . . removed my rear tires , jack stands , and
used my 4" grinder . . . . instead of the "cutting wheel" . You can (or should) only go back "so - far" . . .
on mine ; I could see those (1/4 panel / w-h spot welds) then drew a line for how far I needed to go .
Plus, for me - - I did Not go - Completely - around the wheel - opening ; I quit down on the lower area - -
where the tire doesn't touch anyway - - - - - - - - - - gained about almost a 1/4" more .
Hey Be Careful , go slow . . . . and, I 've only run 235 - 15's w / stock "Rally Wheels" .

also good info - - about 'rubbing higher up inside th' w/h . . . . . check there (on the outside area) .

..... later , jim
 

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The first gens, and maybe the second gens, do have a bump out in the outer portion of the wheel housing that is probably as close or closer than the lip. Third gen, you'll have to take a look.
Cutting back to the spot welds and then sealing the cut edge (I use POR15) is the way to go as long as you keep some of the spot weld intact. Years ago I rolled the lip up and it must have collected mud in the trough that was formed and it rusted through above the wheel opening in short order.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think I would use a 40 grit 4" flapper on an angle grinder. Back and forth, slowly. I live by the cut-off wheel but they can get out of control and give you unwanted collateral damage.
Alf.... Flap Disc!!!! (Insert angels 👼 singing). I’ve seen the light! Awesome. Just cut it down with the 40 grit close to the spot welds, removed about an 1/8 to 3/16s. Touched it up using with some rattle can Rustoleum. Mannnnnn where has the flap disc been the past few years, I’ve been stuck using a basic cutting/grinding wheel.
Thanks!!!!
 
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