[Matthewo_03]

im having trouble trying to remove my oil pan to replace the gasket any help would be great!!!
its a 350 small block
long tubes headers
starter and the flywheel are in the way anyway of removing the pan with out lifting the block out?

 

[72GreenRally]

I had to do that once. You will need to remove the distributor cap, and the bolt through both motor mounts. You can then carefully jack the engine up, being careful to not break the distributor by smashing it against the firewall. Once you have the engine raised enough to get a 2x4 in between the motor mounts and the frame mounts, slowly lower the engine on the 2x4s. This will support the engine safely while you remove the oil pan. you will still probably have to rotate the engine to get the front counter-wieghts on the crank out of the way.

 

[Matthewo_03]

is that the only way?

 

[veno]

exactly.... done the same procedure several times... the only way to do it with out removing the trans and semi lifting the engine or fully removing it..

edit:

make sure your fan shroud has enough clearance or you will break it....

 

[72GreenRally]

is that the only way?

The only other way is to cut the center out of the frame under the oilpan, then weld it back in after you're done.:devil:

 

[Matthewo_03]

im just gonna go buy a cherry picker and hoist it up a lil to give me clearence.

 

[Matthewo_03]

how to lift the engine with a crane?

what do i need to buy so i can lift the engine? do i need special bolts or brackets? that mount to the front or the sides of the block?

if you have pictures that would be great!!!

 

[4116sst]

I use a bridle (cheap, from harbor freight), just use bolts in heads.

 

[Pauls72]

Easiest way is with a tilt bar, because you can tilt the whole engine and trans and get it all out together a lot easier. That being said I have used a couple of chains without a tilt bar. There is also a lifting plate you can put on the intake in place of the carbrator and just put the hoist hook on it.

You can use the accessory bolt holes in the front and back of the heads. You can use the intake bolt holes. If the heads are off you can just use the head bolt holes. Just use some longer bolts that fit whatever holes and use some washers so the chain will not pull over the bolt heads.

You can rent hoists if you don't want to buy one. I got my hoist and tilt bar as a backage on sale from Northern Tool.

 

[Matthewo_03]

I use a bridle (cheap, from harbor freight), just use bolts in heads.

any pix of set up?

 

[Luke Shaheen]

The easiest way is to take a section of chain(4-5' is nice) and bolt each end into opposite cylinder heads. I normally put one bolt in the exhaust manifold on the drivers side(bolt closest to radiator) and another bolt in the opposite exhaust manifold near the firewall on the passenger side. Then hook the chain up to the hoist in the middle.

Another option is to use a lift plate. That involves removing the carb and bolting it in place. I prefer using the chain on factory style motors. When I put my new motor in I used a carb lift plate to protect the shiny new engine.

They make a levelling bar which goes in the middle of a chain. I find these are more of a hassle than anything.

 

[firebird77clone]

Just use 3/8"-16 X 3" bolts, and pull the four corner bolts in the intake. Use the new bolts to bolt in two chians, and you ahve a balanced four-point cradle. The tilt bar works best though. Never pull with just two fasteners.. if one gives, then the engine is on the floor, crushing anything in its path.

 

[walkerjay]

Matthew, I just saw your thread in the "best of" section. Just remember safety first when doing this job. Use long pry bars where you can....in place of your hands and fingers. Do your best to track down your engine and accessory numbers and make sure try to get the correct gasket the first time around. Do you plan to use the 1 piece felpro or rubber and cork old school style?

So essentially, are you doing this cause you have an oil leak? If so, are you certain its a gasket issue?

 

[Matthewo_03]

Matthew, I just saw your thread in the "best of" section. Just remember safety first when doing this job. Use long pry bars where you can....in place of your hands and fingers. Do your best to track down your engine and accessory numbers and make sure try to get the correct gasket the first time around. Do you plan to use the 1 piece felpro or rubber and cork old school style?

So essentially, are you doing this cause you have an oil leak? If so, are you certain its a gasket issue?

i already removed all the bolts from the pan because the cross member was covered in oil leaking on my garage floor. then yesterday i noticed oil on the left side of the engine coming from the valve cover breather i think the oil was leaking out of there when i was at high rpms is there any way i could just bolt up the oil pan with out installing the new gasket? the old one is still attached to the bottom of the block. yes i do have the fel pro one piece gasket.
or now that i loosened the bolts the gasket is no good?

i alos ordered new arp bolts for the trans and oil pan the arrive tommorrow

 

[walkerjay]

I would try the easy way first....bolt it back up and see if the oil pan leaks. You may get lucky. This is if you have not yet lifted the motor. If its all lifted up and you have the clearance, might as well use your new 1 piece gasket.

But first I would try to really pin down the source of the leak. You say you THINK its the breather but seem to not be sure. How much oil we talking about....did you lose a couple quarts or a few drips on the floor?

You probably already know this but try to resolve your engine oil issues first, then go and switch up your trans bolts.