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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a sudden problem. The car starts fine; runs—after about 5 minutes dies completely. Will not start when rolling in neutral . . . ignition must be completely shut off; and in neutral, then starts fine. After another few minutes, dies again. Ignition to off starts quickly again. Runs great. Then back to square one again. Can't figure this one out. Perhaps the neutral safety switch?

Completely confident in the excellent advice I've received in the past via this discussion. My fellow Nova owners are terrific. Hope someone will be able to set me straight on this one. Thank you in advance!
 

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66 Chevy II, 871 blown 355
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It's not the neutral safety switch, that only effects the starter engagement. Sounds like a fuel problem, maybe a cracked fuel line and it is sucking air.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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. . . . . ^ ^ ^ ^ . . . . . ^ ^ ^ ^

I agree . . . It wouldn't be even starting - - with a ? ? ? NSS .
Check over your fuel parts ; pump ; filter ; hoses . . .
but , also could be some kind of ign wire = loose , or not connecting very good . Then , when the motor fires
- - the wire moves - causing a bad connection .

Too check for a bad / loose ign wire . . . . . . I'd just do a "hot - wire" straight from u'r
+ bat post too u'r
coil / dist + wire . Just too see if it would remain running . (an easy way too : tell whether / which
could be at fault ) . - - - - - won't run = ign ; keeps running = tells you - you are getting fuel .



jim
 

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How long do you have to let it sit before restarting? If not long I would also check the coil or like said before it maybe a fuel problem. Is the coil or fuel pump original? Did it just start to do this. Fuel pumps and coils are inexpensive! There are some great experts on this forum that could probably tell me if a resister is required on a 1969 coil? If so you coil could be getting hot and cutting out if there is no resister. Also check the gas filter sometimes the sediment settles when the fuel filter is dirty and sits and as you pull fuel through it could clog up again.
 

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Gotta know more about a few things.

What's your ignition system consist of? If it's OE, your ballast resistor may be dying, or a set of points on the way out.

What's your fuel system consist of? It it's an electric pump, it may be getting hot, overheating, then dying. I've had this happen to me where it runs and drives once the fuel bowls are filled back up, then the pump protests and ties, and the car eventually runs dry in the carb.

Whats the engine build look like? May be a vacuum leak that gets worse as things get warm and move around.
 

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Factory RHD 1962 Chevy 2 3 row wagon
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Had a similar issue with friends GT Capri years ago, would start then drive up the road then stop, wind the key and after 20 seconds start backup, and so on. Took ages to find, the little strainer filter thing on fuel sender was blocked up and was sucking up and blocking pickup on sender. Once removed, never played up again while he owned it. Worth a thought.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The car has an aftermarket HEI. Was only tuned a few months ago. There are no fuel line cracks or leakage. The car starts fine. and runs well at about 190F. But, after about 5 minutes of driving, it dies again. Doesn't seem to be fuel starvation. It just dies. It will not start again until I switch the ignition completely off — then it starts right back up again. Then dies again intermittently. The reason I felt it was related to the neutral starter switch was that once it dies, I don't hear the starter when turning the key . . . until I shut it down completely and switch the ignition back on.

My thanks to all of you for providing advice !
 

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Jumper the neutral safety switch, its easy to do. Eliminate easy stuff. Again, as always, check or replace fuel filter. Then if not solved, I would diconnect the battery and start feeling, visually inspecting, and cleaning every electrical connection on the car. Under dash, firewall, ignition, etc. Then test again. Then start replacing parts, coil first, then distributor,etc. Just my 2c.
 

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If jumpering around the neutral safety switch doesn't help, next place I would look is the HEI module...cheap china modules are known for tripping out due to overheating in the module itself.

Although a module internal circuit trip-out doesn't explain the lack of starter crank....they have no influence over each other.
 

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Check for bad ignition switch…provides power to ignition while cranking, power when it fires then “opens” the circuit while driving, that’s why cycling ignition switch fixes it momentarily.
good luck!
 
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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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alrighty - then .............. and , thanks for the feed-back .
Glad you found the "glitch" ............ 🆒 .

jim
 

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This is a sudden problem. The car starts fine; runs—after about 5 minutes dies completely. Will not start when rolling in neutral . . . ignition must be completely shut off; and in neutral, then starts fine. After another few minutes, dies again. Ignition to off starts quickly again. Runs great. Then back to square one again. Can't figure this one out. Perhaps the neutral safety switch?

Completely confident in the excellent advice I've received in the past via this discussion. My fellow Nova owners are terrific. Hope someone will be able to set me straight on this one. Thank you in advance!
Many many years ago had a similar problem on my ‘57 Chevy. Problem turned out to be the ballast resistor, which at that time were pretty xternal and bolted to the firewall. I think since the early ‘60s they are in the coil, but someone here probably know for sure. It would be pretty easy to swap the coil to test it.
 
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