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68-74 Door vapor barrier

5479 Views 15 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  YENKO DEUCE REG
Besides using the aftermarket for the correct vapor barrier, what else have you used in place of the factory stuff?

I'm tempted to use some heavy duty plastic and hold it in place with the 3M yellow weatherstrip glue.
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Thats a different approach but whatever keeps the mositure out ...... go with it...:)
I used heavy black plastic on the doors and under the quarter glass. I taped it with duct tape and tucked the bottom into the slot. It's been there for 14 years without a problem. No one will ever see it and it works.
vapor barrier

I used 6 mill clear plastic like your thinking ,but used strips of velcro to attach to door, working so far. both from local ace hardware store
do you still need that "barrier" if the car does not see the rain?
Helps keep condensation off the door panels,which are mostly cardboard.
I bet black roofing paper would work a trick for this...
I used Dynomat over the entire door area then put the door card over. Made for a really nice solid door sound when door shut and kept moisture and noise out.
I used Dynomat over the entire door area then put the door card over. Made for a really nice solid door sound when door shut and kept moisture and noise out.

If you don't mind me asking, did you cover all the holes with the dynamat and did you put the adhesive side facing inside or to the outside of the door skin?
If you don't mind me asking, did you cover all the holes with the dynamat and did you put the adhesive side facing inside or to the outside of the door skin?
I covered all of the holes and faced the adhesive towards the inside. Only holes that where needed was for the Door interior handle and window crank. Covered rest of inside of door which door panel covered. Hope that make sense. :)
Makes perfect sense... Might as well add that to my "to do" list...
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I used 6 mill clear plastic like your thinking ,but used strips of velcro to attach to door, working so far. both from local ace hardware store
I use the same six mil clear plastic but I attach it just like GM did. Buy a box of 3M Strip-Calk and run it around in the original slot. Initially cut your plastic a little over-sized and stick it to the calk. Trim for the window crank handle & door handle. Trim the bottom to tuck in the lower slot in the door. Then just trim about a 1/2" beyond the strip chalk. After the first one, you'll find yourself able to make these relatively quickly. And it's so clean, you would have no shame removing the door panels in a big car guy crowd.



Obviously, I'm not the only one using this method.
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do you still need that "barrier" if the car does not see the rain?
It not only keeps moisture out, it also substantially reduces interior noise. You will be amazed at how much wind noise they eliminate. They also make your heater/AC more efficient.
Just put my originals back in the other day...they are ripped and patched with duct tape...but still serve the purpose...they actually look not too bad for 41 years old...

I still say some "15 pound" roofing felt would work nicely for someone who doesnt have the originals...


Andy
I'm only an apprentice wizard, but I'm going to attempt a little thread necromancy.

I bough a car with windows removed. This weekend I plan to clean them up. I had noticed the pieces attached to the bottom of the glass and was wondering how to proceed with them. I didn't know their purpose until this thread. Would it make any sense to remove and reglue them? Or if they are well seated should I consider them good to go?

Second, I didn't even know there was a need for a moisture barrier so I'm glad I stumbled across this thread. I think I will use whatever adhesive sound deadening mat I use in the rest of the car for this same task.

Thanks
We used repro door panels which have a plastic like backer to them, so we skipped the vapor barrier altogether....
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