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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Im in the process of rebuilding the front suspension on my 71' Nova and am currently setting it up w/ a semi Pro-Touring setup with a QA1 Coilover conversion as well as some tubular UCA's and 17's and a 2" drop front and rear.

So any Pro-Touring Novas out there please post up some pics as well as the Rim/Tire specs of your rides....
 

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rim 17x7's front 17x8' rear..tire 215/5017 front 275/40's rear

hotchkis susp all four corners 2" dropped front spindles
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Guys....Any other contributions out there?

strtlegal.......couple questions for ya I know you are running the hotchkis spring and 2" spindle up front, have you had any tie rod interference w/ the spindle setup. Also what spindle did you go with? I am currently looking into the QA1 coilover conversion and am just trying to figure out if that will provide me with enough drop or whether I should upgrade to a 2" drop spindle as well and adjuct the coilovers accordingly to stance the car right.
 

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it depends on how much of a drop your looking for..i dont think the qa1's will be enough drop i called them and they said you can get about an 1-1.5" drop with out sacrificing alignment...i almost ordered them but i couldnt pass up the price of $550.00 for my dropped spindles that have 12" rotors and braided brake lines, which i purchased from superior spindles. i had mccuahy's before and the rotors were only 10" and looked real whimpy and were all metric


The tie rod's do not rub at all!!!! thats why i bought from superior spindles they allow up to 4.5 bsp where cpp and mccaughy's only allow 3.75 which would look dumb on a wide rim..i ve been down this road and have had messed with different setups about 4 times now..


i am how ever going to buy some qa1's for tunablity but i wont be relying on them to lower my car
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
strtlegal said:
it depends on how much of a drop your looking for..i dont think the qa1's will be enough drop i called them and they said you can get about an 1-1.5" drop with out sacrificing alignment...i almost ordered them but i couldnt pass up the price of $550.00 for my dropped spindles that have 12" rotors and braided brake lines, which i purchased from superior spindles. i had mccuahy's before and the rotors were only 10" and looked real whimpy and were all metric


The tie rod's do not rub at all!!!! thats why i bought from superior spindles they allow up to 4.5 bsp where cpp and mccaughy's only allow 3.75 which would look dumb on a wide rim..i ve been down this road and have had messed with different setups about 4 times now..


i am how ever going to buy some qa1's for tunablity but i wont be relying on them to lower my car
Yea I really want only enough drop to stance the car right with a 17" rim w/ 45 or 50 series tire up front nothing more, so your suggestions and recommendations are much appreciated............ I have heard from diff. sources that you can go anywhere from 1- 3" with the QA1's but really don't know who to believe for sure. I have heard also that it is a good idea to run a coilover tubular lower control arm with the increased mounting reinforcements to not rely on the two bolts alone to hold the car up. I am trying to make sense of all my options and make the best decison but really don't know what will make up the perfect package. For instance some have enough drop with just spindles, however others such as yourself run the hotchkis coils and the spindles to stance the car right. I didn't know about the increased backsapce allowance with the superior spindles, which is def a good thing compared to all of the horror stories I have heard regarding dropped spindles on our cars.

Just out of curiosity was that a special of some kind for the 2" superior spindle and 12" brake kit? Seems like a hell of a deal as am planning the upgade to front disks as well, even though the kit only offers a single piston caliper.

Also when you upgrade to the QA1's will you go w/ the coilover conversion as well or just their adjustable shocks?
 

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here is the link..im sorry the price increased to 575-625 for slotted rotors
http://www.superiorspindles.com/nova.html

i would like to upgrade to global west and run qa1 full coilover just for handling reasons..

the reason why i ran a dropped spindle plus a lowered spring was that i was having trouble with a company that sold me stock moog springs, i couldnt for the life of my get the car to sit down right..so i said screw and through in my old hotckis's back in there, so if you can get the correct stock springs you probably okay..

with dropped spindles you get a true drop with nothing being affected, where as a spring drop its up in the air on what your actually getting..back when i purchased my hotchkis i ordered the 2" lowered ones, i was lucky to get 1"..even if it were true that you could get 3" out of a qa1 your car wouldnt align and nether would your swaybar endlinks...if you want a true 2" order the spindles

my front tire is tucked really nice, the way ive wanted it for years..im finally happy with the stance
 

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Discussion Starter #9
strtlegal said:
here is the link..im sorry the price increased to 575-625 for slotted rotors
http://www.superiorspindles.com/nova.html

i would like to upgrade to global west and run qa1 full coilover just for handling reasons..

the reason why i ran a dropped spindle plus a lowered spring was that i was having trouble with a company that sold me stock moog springs, i couldnt for the life of my get the car to sit down right..so i said screw and through in my old hotckis's back in there, so if you can get the correct stock springs you probably okay..

with dropped spindles you get a true drop with nothing being affected, where as a spring drop its up in the air on what your actually getting..back when i purchased my hotchkis i ordered the 2" lowered ones, i was lucky to get 1"..even if it were true that you could get 3" out of a qa1 your car wouldnt align and nether would your swaybar endlinks...if you want a true 2" order the spindles

my front tire is tucked really nice, the way ive wanted it for years..im finally happy with the stance

I appreciate the info man. Your advice is invaluable in an effort to get this stuff straight as I want to get this done right the first time. So do you think the combination of the superior spindle and the QA1 conversion would provide a good package that way I could be assured of a 2" drop from the spindle and adjust it with the coilovers to get it dialed in?

My reasoning for the coilovers is in an effort to avoid throwing a drop spring in there and only getting no drop or a minimal one from where it sits now w/ the 30 year old suspension underneath it.

Also have you heard about the need to run a true coilover lower CA with the upgrade to coilovers? Also I think you have told me in the past but how much of a drop do you estimate you received from the spindle and hotchkis coils?

And as always man, Thanks again for all your help!
 

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an honest total is 3"..i cant back up the need to run different lower control arm's for the qa1's..thats something that makes sense but is it really needed? drag racing guys qa1's with stock nova CA all the time with out any issues.

i think in the summit book the qa1 coil over kit also says for track use only, but i know thats a bunch of b.s.

i would run a dropped spindle for the perfect lowered stance then the qa1 coilovers for the perfect tunablilty..i want to order the qa1's soon, but ill wait until i come across a deal. for now $500 can go some where else on the car

when you get it all done let me know i want to see pics!:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
strtlegal said:
an honest total is 3"..i cant back up the need to run different lower control arm's for the qa1's..thats something that makes sense but is it really needed? drag racing guys qa1's with stock nova CA all the time with out any issues.

i think in the summit book the qa1 coil over kit also says for track use only, but i know thats a bunch of b.s.

i would run a dropped spindle for the perfect lowered stance then the qa1 coilovers for the perfect tunablilty..i want to order the qa1's soon, but ill wait until i come across a deal. for now $500 can go some where else on the car

when you get it all done let me know i want to see pics!:beer:
Good point on the drag race comparison on the lower CA's. I agree and really do not want to spend an extra $550 on tubular LCA's if I dont have to. Just out of curiosity what are you running for bushings in your upper and lower CA's? I am contemplating del-alums w/ offset shafts, but am not sure if I will do them or just go back w/ MOOG replacement rubber bushings to keep some of the smoother ride. I just purchased my QA1 coilovers today from AutoFab Race Cars http://www.autofabracecars.com/ for $405 shipped. They are a big distributor for QA1 and have the best prices I have found.

I'll most def post some pics once she's all wrapped up and will more than likely have a few more questions for ya along the way.
 

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COOL MAN! just drop me a pm if you need to

im running poly impregnated for the durabilty of a polyurethane but with out all the noise

golbal west has some nice stuff, but i wasnt going to put there bushings in when im just going to ( hopefully) order there complete CA'S..i am running a rack n pinion which was supposedly helped with bump steer. we will see
 

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JTW said:
Check out this Super Chevy article with some good pics of a '70 with 17"s and an Air Ride setup.

http://superchevy.com/features/nova/0506sc_blue70/

It's just a shame it can't travel under it's own power. While I was driving my Nova on Power Tour last year. This car was doing the tour "on a trailer." I would be ashamed to show up for an event like this with a car that that could not be driven. I'm sorry but trailer queens are a joke and this is a "trailer queen."

Pro Touring is about having a car that handles extremely well both in corners and on a straight course. To qualify as a Pro touring car it has to have improved handling through suspension modifications. It has to have improved braking. Pro Touring cars usually also have large wheels. The reason for the wheels is simple, you can't fit big brakes with 15" rims. On top of this it has to have a powerful engine. (We are talking performance here, looks are secondary but of course important too.)
Pro Touring is about making a car that not only has reasonable driving performance but also performs really well. If done properly it can outperform a true sportscar. But the most important aspect of a Pro Touring car is that they can be driven. Driver comfort and ergonomics should be a major issue when planning a true Pro Touring car.
Below is a picture of a car built on a Pro-Touring platform that can be safely driven on a 2000+ mile trip without incident.

 

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no crap!!!! i read that write up on this car, i think he is a 17 year old he made it sound like it was his daily drive..i know if my nova looked that good when i had it in high school i would be showing it off anytime i could!
 

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ya trailer queens are a pet peave of mine...why own it if you are afraid to drive it.....JMO but these cars were meant to be driven and driven hard...and thats what I plan to do;)

I guess IMO the only exceptions to that rule would be the high end utra rare Yenko's, Motions, etc...I can understand not driving one of them on the open road BUT on a closed track...oh baby...I would be seeing what it could do....BUT for the majority of these cars they should be driven and driven hard cause really thats what they are for...JMO here.:)
 
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