Swap the front tires left to right try it. Ernie.I have the Church Boys Lower adjustable control arms. All new upper / lower ball joints, coil springs, shocks and all front end bushings. I've adjusted camber to -.5 each side. Caster is -2.5 on the passenger side and - 1.75 on drivers side ( that's all the adjustment there is). Toe in is at 1/16 ". The issue is, It pulls to the passenger side and the steering wheel isn't centered.
What adjustment(s) am I missing here ??
Thanks in advance for your advice !!
67 SS, Front End Alignment Issue
I have the Church Boys Lower adjustable control arms. All new upper / lower ball joints, coil springs, shocks and all front end bushings. I've adjusted camber to -.5 each side. Caster is +2.5 on the passenger side and + 1.75 on drivers side ( that's all the adjustment there is). Toe in is at 1/16 ". The issue is, It pulls to the passenger side and the steering wheel isn't centered.
What adjustment(s) am I missing here ??
Thanks in advance for your advice !!
What adjustment(s) am I missing here ??
Thanks in advance for your advice !!
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Swap the front tires left to right try it. Ernie.
Hi Ernie,
Forgot to mention also. Two brand new tires mounted and balanced. Zero mile on the tires. Went out for the first 2 mile cruise yesterday after the 427 install.
Forgot to mention also. Two brand new tires mounted and balanced. Zero mile on the tires. Went out for the first 2 mile cruise yesterday after the 427 install.
Try it any way. I've seen it even with new tires. I would rule it out.Hi Ernie,
Forgot to mention also. Two brand new tires mounted and balanced. Zero mile on the tires. Went out for the first 2 mile cruise yesterday after the 427 install.
I agree with Ernie. Have seen it happen many times. May not be your problem, but very easy to do and will eliminate a tire problem as your issue.Try it any way. I've seen it even with new tires. I would rule it out.
Thank you for the advice. I will swap the tires and post the results. Hopefully that's all it is !!
Same issue with my wifes SRX Caddy, took it back to the alignment shop 3 times, they finally switched the fronts, and it went straight. Crazy how that fixed the issue.
It is referred to as "Radial Pull"Same issue with my wifes SRX Caddy, took it back to the alignment shop 3 times, they finally switched the fronts, and it went straight. Crazy how that fixed the issue.
If the tires are brand new, and swapping fixes it, I would be asking for a new set from wherever you purchased them.
I bought these tires, front and rear online a few months ago. Just put them on this weekend. If the tire swap from side to side doesn't work I'm probably out the cost of a tire.
If this " Radial Pull" is the issue, a defective tire it's a lesson learned and a reason to buy local.
Thanks guys for your help !!
If this " Radial Pull" is the issue, a defective tire it's a lesson learned and a reason to buy local.
Thanks guys for your help !!
Are your tires the same size front to back? If so, and "radial pull" turns out to be your issue, rotate the front's to the back. The tire with the pull will not be a pull or a safety issue on the rear of the car. You will find that in 5000 miles or so, when a rotation is needed and the rears are moved to the front again the pull will have disappeared.I bought these tires, front and rear online a few months ago. Just put them on this weekend. If the tire swap from side to side doesn't work I'm probably out the cost of a tire.
If this " Radial Pull" is the issue, a defective tire it's a lesson learned and a reason to buy local.
Thanks guys for your help !!
Thanks Joe,
I'm running 235's in the rear and 195's in the front. I'll find out tonight when I get home if the side to side swap did the trick !!
I'm running 235's in the rear and 195's in the front. I'll find out tonight when I get home if the side to side swap did the trick !!
While it isnt much caster difference it will make a car pull to the side of the more caster. You need the upper control arms from CBR to be able to get any more caster in it. Have you talked to Chuck
Ahhh,.. !!
Yes, I did talk to Chuck last week. Nice guy. He recommended - .5 camber. + 2 - 2-1/2 caster and 1/16" toe in. I wasn't able to achieve the + 2 - 2- 1/2 caster drivers side. The adjusting nut bottomed out. The car is pulling to the more caster side, passenger at + 2.5. Maybe I should adjust passenger side to + 1.75 caster to match the drivers ?
Yes, I did talk to Chuck last week. Nice guy. He recommended - .5 camber. + 2 - 2-1/2 caster and 1/16" toe in. I wasn't able to achieve the + 2 - 2- 1/2 caster drivers side. The adjusting nut bottomed out. The car is pulling to the more caster side, passenger at + 2.5. Maybe I should adjust passenger side to + 1.75 caster to match the drivers ?
A follow up on the alignment. I adjusted the caster to + 1.75. Camber - .5 and toe in at 1/8" This works very well.
Thank you for all of your input !!
Thank you for all of your input !!
I have the Church Boys Lower adjustable control arms. All new upper / lower ball joints, coil springs, shocks and all front end bushings. I've adjusted camber to -.5 each side. Caster is +2.5 on the passenger side and + 1.75 on drivers side ( that's all the adjustment there is). Toe in is at 1/16 ". The issue is, It pulls to the passenger side and the steering wheel isn't centered.
What adjustment(s) am I missing here ??
Thanks in advance for your advice !!
[/QUOTE
Your caster is .5 higher number on the pass side than the drivers side. That should be ok and the car should drift to the drivers left. That .5 spec will make the car go straight on road crown driving with That spec. But Only if you have that type of road crown in your area where you drive.…….But you state the car pulls to the pass side. which could be a Radial Tire Pull. Try swapping the front tires left to right. If the car then goes straight then you have confirmed a tire pull.…..The Toe spec is ok, but because of the right drift pull, the Steering Wheel may be affect by the wheel by the right pull. If that isn’t the problem, look at the thread count on the tie rods, they should be close to even on all pairs of inner & outer tie rod end thread exposed count. An Alignment shop should be able to confirm the above problems with the proper knowledge.
So you adjusted the pass side caster to +1.75 from+ 2.5 to correct it.? Ernie.A follow up on the alignment. I adjusted the caster to + 1.75. Camber - .5 and toe in at 1/8" This works very well.
Thank you for all of your input !!
Hi Ernie,
Yes I did. For some reason I can only adjust + 1.75 Caster on driver side. So,.. I adjusted passenger from + 2.5 to +1.75 to match drivers side. And there you go,.... drives straight as an arrow.
Comments please
Yes I did. For some reason I can only adjust + 1.75 Caster on driver side. So,.. I adjusted passenger from + 2.5 to +1.75 to match drivers side. And there you go,.... drives straight as an arrow.
Comments please
Yes I can see why it would. Why did you have it at 2.5 anyway.Hi Ernie,
Yes I did. For some reason I can only adjust + 1.75 Caster on driver side. So,.. I adjusted passenger from + 2.5 to +1.75 to match drivers side. And there you go,.... drives straight as an arrow.
Comments please
Well,..
I adjusted passenger side first to + 2.5 what Chuck at Church Boys recommended. But on drivers side I could only pull the + 1.75. Thought I would give that a road test. Which didn't work out well. Any ideas as to why the difference in caster adjustability side to side ?
Everything is new in the front suspension and steering.
Thanks
I adjusted passenger side first to + 2.5 what Chuck at Church Boys recommended. But on drivers side I could only pull the + 1.75. Thought I would give that a road test. Which didn't work out well. Any ideas as to why the difference in caster adjustability side to side ?
Everything is new in the front suspension and steering.
Thanks
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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