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67 Nova, Nothin Special
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Discussion Starter #141
That should be a big pile of fun..!
Yes sir, I’m looking forward to seeing it sitting in there!


Do the superchargers off the LT4 fit that? There's always a bunch off takeoffs for sale.
Yeah, I’ve seen several too. They fit but the supercharged LT4 has a 10:1 compression ratio where this one is 11.5:1 so as tempting as it is, I’ll probably play it safe...it would look awesome sitting on there!
 

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67 Nova, Nothin Special
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Discussion Starter #142
Took some time to get the engine set into the front clip yesterday and thought I’d share some info for anybody planning to do a Gen V LT1 swap in a 66-67 Nova. Not much info out there that I’ve been able to find in the way of motor plates, mounts, etc. For reference, I’m using the DSE front clip, factory core support and DSE’s inner fenders on the car. The body’s off getting media blasted and put in epoxy so all of this was done just to get a feel for what I’d need to about the engine mount offset, headers, cooling package, cold air intake, etc. while it was easy to get to it from all angles and see what was not gonna fit. I’ll apologize in advance for the long post but trying to pack as much info in here as I can for the next guy!

Just for the sake of information, I’ll give a quick rundown on a few things that are pertinent in how the engine comes equipped. So the crate motor comes shipped with the Camaro exhaust manifolds, water pump setup and oil pan with integrated oil cooler. On the back of the water pump on the passenger side is a black plastic housing that is the engine oil separator for the PCV vent system. Part of that system is a steel drain tube that goes back to the passenger side of the oil pan and runs right “thru” the engine mount plate area. Since the water pump is offset completely to the passenger side of the engine and with the catch can on the back of it, you can imagine this creates some clearance issues. In short, the water pump and factory PCV catch can, drain and oil separator will have to be removed and another setup used due to the water pump outlet hitting the forward side of the passenger A-arm. Interestingly, pretty much all of the vehicles that come from the factory with the Gen V LT1 have electric steering so there’s no sourcing a “Camaro drive system” to complete the pkg as it wouldn’t give you any more then an alternator and an an AC compressor so you’ll need to either buy GM’s kit or one from any of the other usual places. I’m going with the Holley Mid-Mount system because it’s by far the most compact, tidy and well-engineered kits out there. I’ve got it on my 68 Camaro and it works flawlessly. What Holley does is utilize the same kit as the LS engines by giving you a water pump adapter and a throttle body plate to change the angle from the down (factory) to up like the LS motors to clear the accessories and water pump...remember, you’re going from an offset water pump to one that’s mounted in the center. Here’s some pics of the clearance issues on the factory water pump. You can see it won’t allow the pump to bolt on all the way.
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The next issue I ran into was the factory Camaro exhaust manifolds, the driver side actually bolts up and fits quite well leaving what appears to be enough room for the steering shaft but the passenger side has too much interference with the area where the front clip bolts to the body. The square exhaust flange is hits the frame rail and even if it were trimmed down, the outlet is in such a place that short of cutting an expensive subframe, you’d never be able to plumb the system. DSE doesn’t currently offer headers for the LT1 but my plan is go with Church Boys as they offer a long tube setup. Here’s a few pics but I know it might be difficult to make anything out of them.
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In the pic above, on the passenger side, you can see the steel tube with the yellow tape on the end...that’s the PCV drain tube that goes to the oil pan. I’d tried to remove it while it was still on the wooden crate but they filled the engine with oil oddly enough so it was draining out and I couldn’t get to the drain plug because of the crate and I also couldn’t get the motor mount plates attached because of the tube so I just turned it around for now to get it out of the way. You wouldn’t thing you’d need a drain that large for a PCV system.

Anyway, onto the oil pan. I love the oil pan on this thing. It includes an oil to water cooler that’s attached to the driver side of the pan with a steel line that plugs into the factory water pump and another one that would get routed to the radiator or radiator hose. I was really hoping to keep this setup in tact despite not using the factory water pump. I’m happy to report that the oil pan will clear the DSE crossmember easily (at least with the mounts in their current position) and it appears to have decent ground clearance but I won’t know for sure until I get everything in the car. The Holley swap pan does have a lower profile and has the cooler fittings (just not the cooler) so I may have to change it at a later date but for now I’m letting it ride. It’s hard to distinguish in the pic below but you can see there’s about 2” of clearance from the front of the sump to the back of the crossmember.
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For the engine mounts, I wasn’t sure what I’d need so I bought a few different ones including the Dirty Dingo sliders.The DD mounts are made quite well but I wasn’t crazy about having an adjustable mount and all the extra hardware “clutter” that comes with it. The mounts I tried first were the Billet Specialties pn: 11630. These mounts have multiple bolt locations that allow you to have the engine in a neutral position as well as move it three different positions rearward. They use a standard GM 3-bolt motor mount sold separately and were only approx $55 for the plates. The position I used was the third bolt hole back from the front on the top bolt, whatever that was. I looked like it’d put the front of the sump back far enough from the crossmember while not putting the back of the motor too far rearward. These engines have a high pressure fuel pump that’s camshaft driven that boosts the fuel pump pressure to over 2,100 psi before it’s directly injected into the cylinders adjacent from the spark plugs. So in addition to being mindful of the forward placement, you need to watch the rearward placement to maintain clearance from the high pressure pump to the firewall. I won’t know for sure until I put everything on the body but the initial place,ent I think will be spot on...if not, I have enough room for the sump that I can move it forward buteven now, things will be very tight up front by the time i add a radiator and fans and the cold air intake tube so I need to keep it tight to the firewall. I may end up recessing a pocket in the firewall just to keep the engine to the back for that reason along with weight distribution. Here’s some pics to see where it’s oriented in relation to the support bars and frame mounts which would give you an idea of where the firewall would be.
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For the frame stands, I just ordered upa pair of DSE’s LS frame mounts andI used Prothane poly motor mounts with the 2 5/8” spread between the ears and 1 3/4” tall (pn: 7-504-BL). I found a perfect original GM flat hood for a great price that I’m gonna be running and the top of the intake sits 3.5” below the tops of the fenders so I’ve got plenty of room. In the last pics above, you can see the high pressure pump sticking off the back. In reality the actual pump housing only sticks out 1” from the bell housing flange, the rest is a foam sound insulator that can be trimmed down.

I think that about covers it for now. Thanks for looking!
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Shane (Gmachine), Even though I have a 3rd gen Nova, I enjoy reading your posts. They are very detail orientated with lots of great pics! I'm sure this type of information would be extremely helpful to anybody that is taking on a similar project. I'm looking forward to seeing how everything comes together.
 

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67 Nova, Nothin Special
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Discussion Starter #147
Shane (Gmachine), Even though I have a 3rd gen Nova, I enjoy reading your posts. They are very detail orientated with lots of great pics! I'm sure this type of information would be extremely helpful to anybody that is taking on a similar project. I'm looking forward to seeing how everything comes together.
Hey Mike - thank you, I appreciate the compliment! All my life I’ve been fortunate to be around people that are more talented then myself and are always willing to share their knowledge and lend a helping hand so I’m always glad to pay it forward to anyone else that can benefit from my experiences and mistakes, lol! I’m kinda flyin by the seat of my pants In some areas on this one but we’ll get it figured out. I’ll keep the updates coming


Lots of good information, thanks for the detailed post.
Thank you, Chevylover...most appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Shane are the exhaust ports in the same location as the LS1-6's
Steve, the ports are different on these motors. Apparently there’s really nothing between the LS and Gen V LT’s that’ll interchange despite having a similar appearance. The LT’s have a square port design with a different header bolt pattern and the intake and exhaust valves are switched to the opposite orientation from the LS motors as well as the valves being canted 2.5° away from one another for better flow and I think I remember reading that the ports were raised slightly but I wouldn’t swear to it. From a header standpoint, they’re probably similar enough in the shape of the tubes for the chassis but would require different flanges at minimum. From speaking to Chuck Church, the price between headers for the two engines is a wash.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Well, it’s finally one color...Even if it is primer! It’s come a long way but still a long way to go! I put some pics at the bottom just to show what it looked like when we picked it up in July 2019 and when I started on it in September that year.

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Just went through most of what I've missed. I knew I would be surprised at the progress but dayum! Even more surprised than expected lol car is looking real good in that black primer and everything up front is

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Discussion Starter #153
Look great ...spring PAINT?
Thank you! I’d love to see it in paint but we’ll see how it goes. My plan is to build the car out as much as possible before tearing it back down for paint. I also don’t wanna get burned out and get sloppy or amass any debt from it...


Just went through most of what I've missed. I knew I would be surprised at the progress but dayum! Even more surprised than expected lol car is looking real good in that black primer and everything up front is

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Thanks man, I’m excited about it as well. Next on the list is to get the firewall done and figure out the dash AC vents...that’s been a real head scratcher. If only the GM designers had given us an extra inch or so, we could fit some vents easier! I know what I wanna do about it, I just don’t wanna pay for it, lol and I don’t wanna do it myself! I did order my VA evap kit, DSE wiper motor kit, wiper transmission linkage, brake master cylinder, etc. so I could get all the big stuff located under the dash along with any associated welding. Stay tuned!
 

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[QUOTE="Gmachine, post: 5902520,
I know what I wanna do about it, I just don’t wanna pay for it, lol and I don’t wanna do it myself! [/QUOTE]

This sounds exactly what I'm saying about my paint job lol I know what I want and I really domt wanna pay for it, but I'm certainly not doing that myself haha so losing a arm and both legs it's going to be

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Discussion Starter #155
So, once the blasting and epoxy was complete, the plan was to bring it home and get the dash AC vents figured out, attach the drive by wire throttle pedal mount, fabricate the AC evaporator mounting brackets and get the firewall and dash ready for paint - basically, complete all welding on the dash and firewall so they could be painted. Since the body shop already had the car and since I wasn’t super happy with my patch job on the heater motor hole and since I also didn’t feel I had the skills to do the AC vents to the level they needed to be, I went ahead and had them handle those items for me. This will save some back and forth, give me a real boost on getting the car back to a rolling chassis faster and the quality will be much better, especially on the firewall and dash work.

I was really torn about what to do with the dash vent situation. I knew I didn’t like the look of the under-dash mounting that comes with the VA evap kit and I’ve seen other threads where oval vents were used on 67’s but my dash, for whatever reason, didn’t have the same available space between the raised areas for the switches and the sides of the dash (on the driver side). It’s frustrating and I searched high and low for a small vent that had a diameter that’d fit within the flat area of the lower dash. The only thing I could find were The “Nano vents” from Restomod Air. They use a small hole about 1.62” and the finished diameter of the vent is not much bigger then the switch bezels. They would definitely fit, however, they use a 1.5” diameter duct hose or an adapter to fit Restomod’s standard 2” duct hose. Vintage Air uses 2.5” hose as standard. I didn’t feel I could “shrink” the Vintage Air hoses down effectively 1/2” without making them leak and I was also afraid that these small vents would whistle when the airflow was on high which would be annoying. I was also concerned about the look of such a small vent and it’s ability to provide enough airflow as air will always take the path of least resistance unless you direct it completely (hence the possibility of leaking and/or whistling). Anyway, on top of all that, the vents are $185 each so I’d have about $800 in parts that I might not be happy with at the end of the day. So long story short, since I’ll have to look at this dash for a while, I opted to go the more expensive route and get the dash modified to accept a standard size (2.5” hole) vent. I think this will provide the best finished product and be the most functional at the end of the day. It was necessary to fill the ash tray location but I think it cleans up the dash nicely and to those who aren’t familiar with the dash of a Second Gen Nova, it may not even be noticeable.

Now that the metal work is complete, they’ll do the body work on the dash and firewall and apply some paint. When it comes home, I can finish some detail work, apply the bedliner, get the brake and fuel lines bent, and get the car off the rotisserie and get the front and rear suspension back under it and ready to move to the next stage. Anyway, here’s some progress pics...

This is the firewall with all the holes filled. The fuse panel hole was relocated behind the inner fender and enlarged for the AAW harness that’ll be going in. The did a great job getting the passenger area super flat and smooth. The area around the steering column will be body-worked leaving an indention of the original hole...I like the shape of the firewall and wanted to keep as much of the character as possible

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Here’s the DSE wiper motor mocked up to help position the evaporator. DSE’s instructions say to remove/close off the upper ducts from the evap due to interference with the wiper linkage - definitely Not an option!
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Once the evap unit was relocated, we put attachment studs on the inside of the cowl area and firewall so nothing is seen from the outside. I hate putting screws into stuff that can leak, strip and look like crap. We test fitted to be sure to leave room for the duct hoses and I have enough room to mount the LT1 ECM in there as well.
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Here’s after the ash tray was filled in and the vent locations were laid out with pilot holes. I wanted to keep a somewhat stock-appearing AC/heater control because it’s not my intention to completely redesign the dash. The GM designers did a great job in 67 in my opinion-I just want to add a bit of modern to it

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Here’s the dash after vent holes were added. They blend in quite well to the bottom side of the dash due to the naturally downward angle.
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I agree you made the right decision, that'll be taken care of and you're that much closer. Everything is looking really good man this car has came a LONG way in such a short amount of time

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Discussion Starter #159
I agree you made the right decision, that'll be taken care of and you're that much closer. Everything is looking really good man this car has came a LONG way in such a short amount of time

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Thank you, after seeing it, I think it was the right thing to do as well. I’m so ready to see this thing on the ground with the front end on it but I know there’s certain areas that you just can’t shortcut so I have to be patient. I’m looking forward to having it to a point where I can go out and “tinker” on it at my leisure without feeling like I have self-imposed deadlines and also being able to see some noticeable progress when I’m done!

The dash turned out nice ! 👍
Thank you! They did a really good job on everything and have done it pretty quick as well. I’m hoping to have it back either the end of this week or beginning of next week. At that point the firewall and dash will be painted so I could conceivably start finishing the bottom side and getting Dynamat put down in some areas of the interior.

this is one incredible rebirth of a Nova!!!
For sure! It’s come a long way. My better half is on me to have it done for Power Tour next year but I’m not sure that’s possible...We’ll see!

Everybody stay safe and thanks for tuning in!
 
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