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Discussion Starter · #281 ·
Thank you guys and no problem, happy to share any details you want. So when I did my Camaro, I broke down and bought some Eastwood tools for doing lines. I bought their flaring tool, tubing straighteners, the blue bender below and then sought out a tight radius bender specifically for brake lines (the black one). Stainless can be a little difficult to work with in 3/8” or bigger sizes but on 3/16 line it’s not bad but it does require good tools, especially for flaring. The pics below are everything I used for both my Camaro and the Nova. I use the blue Eastwood bender for my fuel lines and it does quite nice but it’s about all you want when bending 3/8” stainless. I wish it had a tighter bend radius but it is what it is. The Nova has some very complex fuel lines, especially around the Quadralink area going to the tank as I wanted to keep everything tucked in tight and out of sight and away from the path of the exhaust and moving suspension. The black bender is what I use exclusively for the brake lines. It does great. For the tightest bends (like coming out of the master cylinder) I’ll actually place the fitting threads against the stabilizing arm on the bender to keep the bend really tight and close to the brake fitting.

At the risk of making this a long post, here’s the process I follow ritually when bending stainless. It can be frustrating to have leaks but I’ve found that this has worked best for me and I’m pretty OCD about it but again, the importance of a quality flaring tool can’t be overstated. If you’re gonna go cheap, do it on the bender(s) not on the flaring tool. I also use a straightened-out metal coat hanger or wire to make a template. I usually work in small sections the length of the hanger so I can make adjustments as I go if needed. I mark the tube where the end of my template stops each time for reference. Then I re-straighten my hanger and pick up where I left off, using both the actual line and the template to form the next section.

1. Since I start with a coil of line, I straighten out a section, however much I think I’ll need with the straightener pictured below. I try to get it as straight as I possibly can. I got mine from Eastwood but they’re not cheap. They do put them on sale regularly so that’s the best time to get them. Most importantly, when you cut stainless with your tubing cutter, use a new disc and don’t crush or deform it by trying to cut it too quickly. Take your time and let the cutter do the work. You may find that you need to change the cutting disc if it gets dull. Check the cut end for deformity and bad burs. A bad result here is only going to ensure you’ve wasted your time and material going forward.

2. I place the end to be flared in the tool and get it in position and then I place a VERY small dab of Anti-seize on the end of the tube to ease the process a little. Don’t cake it in the end of the tube but more around the edge. Don’t forget your fitting!

3. form the flare using the two step process and consistent, firm pressure making sure the tool is bottomed out in both steps. It takes A LOT of force even for 3/16 stainless but don’t be jerky or ramming the tool back and forth as you can cause deformations in the flare.

4. After inspecting your perfect flare for any burs or deformations, now take a red ScotchBrite pad and pack the corner of it into the flare and rotate it back and forth several times. This removes any slight burs and smooths out any slight imperfections in the flare surface where the metal’s been squeezed and folded. Also slide fitting to the end and rotate it, feeling for any “wobbling” that may indicate the flare’s out of round which won’t seal.

5. from there, I’ll take an air hose and blow the line out and use some Mother’s polish and shine it up, removing any Sharpie reference marks I had while making the bends.

I’m sure there’s someone that has a better, more efficient way to do it but I try not to be in a hurry and I rarely have any leaks when I’m done and put fluid in the system. Hope this helps!

p.s. you can also buy dies for doing 37° AN fitting flares with the Eastwood flaring tool…pretty handy!

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Thank you very very much for the detailed write up! I have two benders like those so I'm happy to hear they will work. Don't be surprised if I ask more questions along the way!

Thanks again keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
Thank you very very much for the detailed write up! I have two benders like those so I'm happy to hear they will work. Don't be surprised if I ask more questions along the way!

Thanks again keep up the good work!
No problem at all, happy to answer any questions you have!


GREAT write up! I will be adding those tools to my cart and waiting for their BF sale!

Can you show us your unions between the hardline and flex line to the calipers?

THANK YOU for taking the time to document your build.
Thanks, yeah that’ll be a good time to hopefully score some deals. I haven’t mounted the hose tabs to the frame yet…I was waiting till I got the front/rear brakes mounted to make sure I got them in the best spot. I’m happy to post up some pics when I do, hopefully in the next couple of weeks. Here’s a pic of the tabs I have for it. I’ll use the tear drop shaped ones and screw them to the subframe with a stainless buttonhead bolt. There will be a clip to hold the other end of the braided caliper line to the bracket and then I’ll screw the hardline into that.

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No problem at all, happy to answer any questions you have!




Thanks, yeah that’ll be a good time to hopefully score some deals. I haven’t mounted the hose tabs to the frame yet…I was waiting till I got the front/rear brakes mounted to make sure I got them in the best spot. I’m happy to post up some pics when I do, hopefully in the next couple of weeks. Here’s a pic of the tabs I have for it. I’ll use the tear drop shaped ones and screw them to the subframe with a stainless buttonhead bolt. There will be a clip to hold the other end of the braided caliper line to the bracket and then I’ll screw the hardline into that.
Thanks for all the information.

Are those the Jegs Bolt on Tabs? They look killer and I like the possibility of bolting on rather than welding.

Jegs Tabs
 

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Thanks for all the information.

Are those the Jegs Bolt on Tabs? They look killer and I like the possibility of bolting on rather than welding.

Jegs Tabs
I don't know why Jeg's does this, but the same tabs with the line clips are listed a little cheaper.

Jegs Tabs w/Clips

PS. I made mine from scrap, bolt on the front and weld-on for the differential.
 

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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
Finally had a little time to work on the Nova. Was able to get the Holley mid-mount accessory drive installed and mock up the Entropy radiator. No room for the fans that came with it so I removed them and will have to source some “shorter” ones to clear the acc drive. I knew this was gonna be an area of concern so no big surprise. I’ve had such good results from the same drive system on my Camaro that I just didn’t wanna use anything else so I’ll figure it out.

Also got the front and rear brakes installed. Still need to complete the lines but it’s one step closer. After that I just had to stick the wheels on there, of course. I didn’t realize up to this point that the front lug nuts I had ordered have never shown up so I had to use a few acorn nuts to get by. Not sure if it’s just me but I agonized over lug nuts, of all things. The fronts are the standard chrome variation but I finally found some cool ones for the rear. I put a pic below for any other lug nut snobs out there! Between the big brakes, 4-link and fat tires in the back, it’s a complete PITA the get the rear wheels off…also not a surprise but definitely gonna hurt my feelings if I ever get a flat! Anyway, thanks for looking!
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Finally had a little time to work on the Nova. Was able to get the Holley mid-mount accessory drive installed and mock up the Entropy radiator. No room for the fans that came with it so I removed them and will have to source some “shorter” ones to clear the acc drive. I knew this was gonna be an area of concern so no big surprise. I’ve had such good results from the same drive system on my Camaro that I just didn’t wanna use anything else so I’ll figure it out.

Also got the front and rear brakes installed. Still need to complete the lines but it’s one step closer. After that I just had to stick the wheels on there, of course. I didn’t realize up to this point that the front lug nuts I had ordered have never shown up so I had to use a few acorn nuts to get by. Not sure if it’s just me but I agonized over lug nuts, of all things. The fronts are the standard chrome variation but I finally found some cool ones for the rear. I put a pic below for any other lug nut snobs out there! Between the big brakes, 4-link and fat tires in the back, it’s a complete PITA the get the rear wheels off…also not a surprise but definitely gonna hurt my feelings if I ever get a flat! Anyway, thanks for looking!
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I know I have said this before but damn those wheels are beautiful. Nice work on the whole build gonna be something to be proud of and a hoot to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #293 ·
That Thang's looking Great. Those brakes are Big.
She's a beaut!
I know I have said this before but damn those wheels are beautiful. Nice work on the whole build gonna be something to be proud of and a hoot to drive.
Thanks for the write up. I also am in it for a long build on the wifes' nova wagon,
Thank you all, I appreciate all the feedback! I’m excited to get to this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #294 ·
WOW!!
Im hoping I have better luck with my LS vs LT and an Entrophy Rad/Dual Fan set-up.
Could you tell how much room ya needed for it to clear?
I’m sure you’ll be fine with the LS engine as I’ve seen the Entropy setup used multiple times with that combo. I needed about a 1/2” to make it work. Entropy suggested I lose the shroud and zip tie the fans directly to the fins which would net me the space needed but I’m not down with that. I didn’t spend all that money on their piece just to take off the part that stands to provide a benefit. I took the fans off the shroud and installed the radiator and I’ve got 2 1/4” of space for fans which would leave me enough room to service the serpentine belt if needed. There’s a few things about the setup I don’t like but we’ll see what I can do with it. If I can’t get it to do what I want, it’ll be in the classifieds and I’ll buy a PRC radiator.
 

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Don't know if it's possible or the downside to cooling capabilities but could you mount the fans on the inside of shroud (between shroud and radiator). If so would that give you some additional clearance?
 

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I’m sure you’ll be fine with the LS engine as I’ve seen the Entropy setup used multiple times with that combo. I needed about a 1/2” to make it work. Entropy suggested I lose the shroud and zip tie the fans directly to the fins which would net me the space needed but I’m not down with that. I didn’t spend all that money on their piece just to take off the part that stands to provide a benefit. I took the fans off the shroud and installed the radiator and I’ve got 2 1/4” of space for fans which would leave me enough room to service the serpentine belt if needed. There’s a few things about the setup I don’t like but we’ll see what I can do with it. If I can’t get it to do what I want, it’ll be in the classifieds and I’ll buy a PRC radiator.
I'd be in line to take it off your hands
 

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I was hoping to find out how you routed your brake line to the rear. I was under my car yesterday brainstorming. i scrolled back through your thread and did not see any brakeline pics under the car. I apologize if i missed them. thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #298 · (Edited)
Don't know if it's possible or the downside to cooling capabilities but could you mount the fans on the inside of shroud (between shroud and radiator). If so would that give you some additional clearance?
Thats a good idea…one that I hadn’t considered, so thank you! The thickness of the fan brackets is about 1/8” combined with the thickness of the shroud which also about 1/8” so there’s half of what I need. My plan is to also redesign the mounting points to get it closer to the core support. Entropy also has some lower profile fans which they’re happy to sell me for another $300 but I was a little disappointed as I had requested the lower profile fans from the beginning and when I got the unit, it was built to their standard spec. They make a nice a product which works in most cases but probably my biggest complaint is that the guy I always seem to talk to is more interested in reciting his rehearsed product speech and less interested in what you’re actually telling him you want. At this point, I’d rather make it work but if I had any advice to offer Entropy, it’d be to do a little less talking and a lot more listening for those that have asked them to do things they say aren’t a problem.

I'd be in line to take it off your hands
10-4, I’ll keep you posted if I decide to go that direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #299 ·
I was hoping to find out how you routed your brake line to the rear. I was under my car yesterday brainstorming. i scrolled back through your thread and did not see any brakeline pics under the car. I apologize if i missed them. thanks again!
No problem, I had to dig around a little but here’s a pic that you can see the line routing for the brake and fuel line. The brake line is on the bottom of the car in this pic (driver side).

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