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Thank you Fltinstructor, I’d love to see any pics you might have or hear of any obstacles you had to overcome. They seem like the go-to kit for power windows for most people. I plan to use the window crank switches on mine to keep it stock looking.

On the wheels, I was very close to ordering Forgeline’s OE1 wheel which is basically a rally wheel, and installing some factory hub caps…you can never go wrong with a Chevy rally wheel IMO whether you’ve got a muscle car, or truck rally wheel!
Those Forgelines are bitchin and cost more than all the mods to my car. :oops: I was looking at Wheel Vintiques chrome rally. More in my wheel house for price. I had them do some Olds rally's for a 67 442 that I had.

For the Nu Relics, it was pretty easy to install. The hardest part for me was running the master harness wires for the 4 regulators thru the conduit into the drivers door. Of course running switches somewhere else besides th doors would make it a lot easier. So would only running wires for just two. Since you are planning to use the window crank switches the wires will be in the doors, I used the stock looking chrome swiches even though Chevy II didn't come with power windows. I wanted total control of all the windows and I also installed a module that rolls them all up in sequence when locking the car if they are down. I also had new stock door and quarter panels that were unmolested. So I cut the squares for th switches and they are no holes to cover. So far it's soo subtle no one has noticed or made a comment that it has power windows. Because I did an updated wiring harness the power came from a deicated wire for the windows and only has to run to the master switch on the drivers side. The other windows get their power from that switch. I did take a good while adjusting them, but I had the doors and quarters apart when I bought the car so I never had the stock regulators in for reference. Sorry I don't have any pictures of the installation or where I cut the panel for relief for the rear regulators. I did attach a couple of the finished interior shots to see where the switches ended up. Hope this helps. Any questions you come up with feel free to hit me up.
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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
Those Forgelines are bitchin and cost more than all the mods to my car. :oops: I was looking at Wheel Vintiques chrome rally. More in my wheel house for price. I had them do some Olds rally's for a 67 442 that I had.

For the Nu Relics, it was pretty easy to install. The hardest part for me was running the master harness wires for the 4 regulators thru the conduit into the drivers door. Of course running switches somewhere else besides th doors would make it a lot easier. So would only running wires for just two. Since you are planning to use the window crank switches the wires will be in the doors, I used the stock looking chrome swiches even though Chevy II didn't come with power windows. I wanted total control of all the windows and I also installed a module that rolls them all up in sequence when locking the car if they are down. I also had new stock door and quarter panels that were unmolested. So I cut the squares for th switches and they are no holes to cover. So far it's soo subtle no one has noticed or made a comment that it has power windows. Because I did an updated wiring harness the power came from a deicated wire for the windows and only has to run to the master switch on the drivers side. The other windows get their power from that switch. I did take a good while adjusting them, but I had the doors and quarters apart when I bought the car so I never had the stock regulators in for reference. Sorry I don't have any pictures of the installation or where I cut the panel for relief for the rear regulators. I did attach a couple of the finished interior shots to see where the switches ended up. Hope this helps. Any questions you come up with feel free to hit me up.
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That’s great information and it’s most appreciated…your interior looks great! The switches look right at home, too! I never even thought about the driver having control of all the windows and having the windows all roll up when you lock it is super slick…I definitely have some more homework to do.

Since we’re on the subject of me stealing ideas from your car, lol, I couldn’t help but notice your emergency brake setup…Even though my car’s an auto, I think I’m gonna do the Lokar e-brake setup and had planned to mount it in the same position as yours. Did you have any issues getting the cable routed to the passenger side brake? I haven’t purchased anything yet but have been planning it out in my head, especially after seeing the video of the Ford Cyclone rear-ending those cars at a stoplight while filming a vlog about the guy’s car…despite some poor decision making on the driver’s part, it never hurts to have a plan B or C, especially given the low cost of adding an E-brake. Thanks again!
 

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That’s great information and it’s most appreciated…your interior looks great! The switches look right at home, too! I never even thought about the driver having control of all the windows and having the windows all roll up when you lock it is super slick…I definitely have some more homework to do.

Since we’re on the subject of me stealing ideas from your car, lol, I couldn’t help but notice your emergency brake setup…Even though my car’s an auto, I think I’m gonna do the Lokar e-brake setup and had planned to mount it in the same position as yours. Did you have any issues getting the cable routed to the passenger side brake? I haven’t purchased anything yet but have been planning it out in my head, especially after seeing the video of the Ford Cyclone rear-ending those cars at a stoplight while filming a vlog about the guy’s car…despite some poor decision making on the driver’s part, it never hurts to have a plan B or C, especially given the low cost of adding an E-brake. Thanks again!
Thanks for th compliment on the interior. I had the opourtunity to drive a Porche 914 a friend had and the hand brake was located in that position. It makes drifting a lot easier to do in a manual shift car. The floors in our Chevy II's have more room on the drivers side because of the engine offset. I even think the stock 65 buckets are narrower in the seat area. The stock e-brake cables run up that side before entering at the cowl, so it was easy to run the lokar ones to that spot on the floor. I am still looking for a better brake lever that will work. That Lokar one because of my seat sitting so high is not ideal to find and pull, and the handle is kind of girly(too thin for my big hand). I wished I could convert a 914 lever. It releases to the down position after setting it so you didn't have to climb over it when getting in the car. Ebay has them listed for $400 though and I build on the cheap. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
Gmachine, I mounted my E-Stop electric brake on the driver's side, in line with the original and used the original rear brake cable assembly. I have a switch inside the console to activate.
View attachment 444882
Nova66mussl, that’s a sweet setup, I had looked at those at one time but wasn’t sure where I’d put it. Looks like it fits good right there. I may have to revisit that…Thanks for the pic and what a clean undercarriage!
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
Thanks for th compliment on the interior. I had the opourtunity to drive a Porche 914 a friend had and the hand brake was located in that position. It makes drifting a lot easier to do in a manual shift car. The floors in our Chevy II's have more room on the drivers side because of the engine offset. I even think the stock 65 buckets are narrower in the seat area. The stock e-brake cables run up that side before entering at the cowl, so it was easy to run the lokar ones to that spot on the floor. I am still looking for a better brake lever that will work. That Lokar one because of my seat sitting so high is not ideal to find and pull, and the handle is kind of girly(too thin for my big hand). I wished I could convert a 914 lever. It releases to the down position after setting it so you didn't have to climb over it when getting in the car. Ebay has them listed for $400 though and I build on the cheap. ;)
Well, it all looks good to me…I could see how one might have to climb over the handle when the brake’s set but it does look clean right there. I don’t know the first thing about Porche’s but I did a quick Google search and I do like the shape/angle of the handle.The good thing is I’ve got some time to get it sorted but you and Nova66mussl have definitely given me some things to contemplate. I appreciate all the feedback and ideas!
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
So, while the car was in the body shop for some final panel work on the front end, I decided to make a change to the firewall. The more I’ve thought about the lack of real estate under the dash, the more I decided I was gonna do some bulkhead connectors for the engine harness. I didn’t care for all the extra length of wiring in the GM GenV harness (although I appreciate why they do it that way) and this will allow me to section a lot of the extra out while also cleaning up the wiring bundle, getting stuff separated according to which side of the firewall it needs to be on and then re-wrapping it in the woven fabric wire loom which is less bulky and yields a nicer finished product IMO. While I’m excited about the finished product, the idea of cutting a $3000 harness in half is a little un-nerving.

You can really go down the rabbit hole on these connectors and heat shrink boots and tooling, etc. Once I got everything I needed, I had the shop fabricate some recesses in the firewall for the connectors which required a complete rework of the firewall but I knew it was now or never. All in all, I don’t regret it. They should have the car back together and ready for pickup next week. I’ve gotta be in Vegas for work next week so it might be the following week before I have time to get it but I’m excited to get back to work on it. We’re tentatively scheduling for late January to go back for paint. I’ll be sure to post up more stuff as I go. Thanks for tuning in!

Also, how ‘bout the painter’s “Cheetah” hair!
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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
Starting to come back together. Had to go to Vegas for a work thing this week and we took off a little early and was able to attend SEMA last week…hoping to pick the car up when I get back and motivated to get to work on it. I will say though, I always get a little envious of the scenery for those of you that live out West! Pictures just can’t do it justice.

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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
Well, brought the car home today so excited to have it back where I can work on it. Got it on the schedule to go back in for paint in February so that’ll give me some time to do some assembly and test fit all the trim, get the door guts mocked up and make sure I won’t have any fitment issues hopefully.
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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Looks like everything body wise is fitting mighty fine.
Yeah, I’m happy with it, especially considering what it started out as. There’s still some fine tuning to do in places but the major surgery’s over with. With literally all the sheet metal being replaced, I have no holes for any of the trim so I need to mock it all up so I can drill the holes in the proper locations and make sure everything fits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #278 ·
I may have missed it, but what are you doing for Front Brakes and the Hardline Plumbing? DIY kit?
For hardlines, I custom bent all my own out of 3/16” stainless so I could route everything out of sight. The brake kits aren’t installed yet, but I’ve got Baer’s Pro+ kit for the front and rear so it’ll have 6 piston calipers and 14” rotors all around. It’s part of the litany of parts I have sitting in my basement. Here’s some pics of a section of the front lines…I bent everything to match the curvature of the inner fenders on that side so it’s just out of sight with the inner fenders installed. You can barely see it but there’s an adjustable prop valve plumbed in under the master cylinder.
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For hardlines, I custom bent all my own out of 3/16” stainless so I could route everything out of sight. The brake kits aren’t installed yet, but I’ve got Baer’s Pro+ kit for the front and rear so it’ll have 6 piston calipers and 14” rotors all around. It’s part of the litany of parts I have sitting in my basement. Here’s some pics of a section of the front lines…I bent everything to match the curvature of the inner fenders on that side so it’s just out of sight with the inner fenders installed. You can barely see it but there’s an adjustable prop valve plumbed in under the master cylinder.
Awesome, looks great. Who/what mfg was the source for your supplies for the tube/line/flare nuts/tees? Im getting ready to tackle the front hard lines before the engine get's back in place and wanted to get at least the front done as the rear is stockish and will only need 1 line, which will be OEM.

Do you have a picture of where you mounted the hardline to flex line tabs?
 

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66sawmill.beat me to it! I had the exact same questions as him your lines look amazing I can appreciate the time and effort to take to make hard lines look good. Also could you please let us know what you used for a bender?
 
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